Starwriter

The cross pin goes in a groove in the gear. That's what drives the pump. If the gear turns on the shaft, the gear is chewed up. That's why it's overheating.

Do you really want to spend $200+ on a kludged up setup with 1 new piston? A RZ350 head gasket is about $50. So with a piston, base gaskets, and boring, you will easily be around $200. And that's assuming that the wasted piston is the smaller bore side.

If you removed the spool, there would be a very large chunk of the port missing. As Coupe mentioned, when the spool is in the up position, everything is one with the universe. When the spool is rotated down, the port is kinda funky, but it makes the motor think the top of the exhaust port is lower, to improve low rpm power.

If I was stranded on a desert island and that was the only way I had to sync my carbs, I would use it.

WOW. That's a great price. I paid $48 for it at my local cut rate auto parts store that sells Empi VW stuff. Has anybody figured out what that plastic basket looking piece is supposed to be good for?

There is no "open or closed". It's a rotating spool that raises and lowers the exhaust port height. If you lock it in the lower position, your upper RPM power is going to suffer drastically. If you lock it in the upper position, it will kill your low end power. The following RZ350 parts are necessary to make the power valves work properly. Servo motor Servo controller Stator Flywheel CDI Voltage regulator Battery or battery eliminator Associated wiring If you don't have all this stuff, you would be better off to sell the RZ350 cylinders and buy some Banshee cylinders.

OK, uuuhhhh, where might a person see a pic of one or even buy one? It's not listed on Titans sucky ass website.

That's what I run. I wouldn't even consider running anything else.

Just for curiosity sake, does the TM Designworks case saver work on the Mattoon cases?

Just don't buy the "heavy duty" tie rod ends if you plan on using your stock tie rods. The heavy duty ends have 12 mm threads and stock is 10mm.

You need pressure to make bubbles. Ever tried sucking bubbles instead of blowing them? All you get is a mouth full of soap and no bubbles.

Personally, i'd keep riding it and use those numbers as your baseline. Recheck it every once in a while. As long as it stays the same, keep riding it. If it drops 5 or 10 lbs from there with the same gauge, then I'd be worried. Although 110 and 115 is low, at that elevation it's not horribly low.

Get a billet one from Mattoon. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BANSHEE-DRAG-RACING-BILLET-NEUTRAL-SWITCH-COVER-MFG-by-Mattoon-Machine-/220961987724?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33725c5c8c

Maybe this thread will help you find a washer closer. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=101489&st=0

I have looked into this a bit in Oregon, and here is what I came up with. 3 wheels can be a motorcycle, but 4 wheels is a car. I think there is a clause that states that an ATV can not be made street legal. However, here is the conclusion I came to. If you could convince DMV that you scratch built this "car", grind the vin number off, show a whole bunch of receipts for steel tubing, engine, wheels, etc, then you could possibly register it as a car, just like scratch built street rods. It would need to have a windshield, wiper, seat belt, fenders, turn signals, horn, etc. I really think you could do it and make it look good with fenders that are barely legal. However, if you ask DMV in advance, they're going to say no. If you build it and take it in to register it, there's a chance that they will say, "That's not a car. Get outta here." There have been people in other states that made a swingarm set up for a single rear wheel, registered it as a motorcycle, and then swaped it back to 4 wheels. But, it wouldn't take a very smart cop to figure out that it's not a "motorcycle" anymore.

I want some carbon fiber bars. They make them for bicycles but I don't think they make them for atvs and motorcycles. Renthal makes aluminum bars covered in carbon fiber but I want bars that weigh less than 1/2 pound. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-12-2012-TruVativ-Noir-T40-Carbon-Fiber-Riser-Handlebar-Bar-700-x-15-/280834494322?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41630a4f72#ht_932wt_922

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-BILLET-ADJUSTABLE-STATOR-TIMING-PLATE-MFG-By-Mattoon-Machine-/220948310219?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33718ba8cb&vxp=mtr

WOOOOHOOOOO!!!! Blewbyu bought that motor in the pic and then I bought the stator cover from him.

Bump

I bought a billet stator cover from Jeff. Very nice piece, packed well, and shipped super fast. Thanks.

Here you go.

WOW!! It works. Thanks! The only downside I see is that the bleeder screw is not quite at the top. So, to bleed the brakes, I'll need to lift up the back some. No big deal. It's not that often that you need to bleed the brakes. If you're doing this on a stock carrier, you'll probably need to take the caliper off, put something in between the pads, and bleed it with the bleeder screw at the top. The brake line will point a different direction, so if you're doing this swap and your brake line is just barely long enough, it will probably be too short with this caliper. Still, would be cool if somebody made a billet caliper. hint, hint, Mull, hint.

Wouldn't it be nice if somebody made a billet rear caliper that did not need a park brake block off plate and used stock Banshee internal parts? Would definitely look good and we know the Banshee caliper works. Unlike a certain billet caliper sold by R(cough)IS.

Looking for a single 21x7-10 dual rib front tire just for a spare. Doesn't have to be perfect, but must hold air and no plugs. Don't need a wheel. Not looking to pay new price for a spare that may never get used.