Starwriter

A roundhouse style carrier has .680" of adjustment. Chain pitch is .625". 1 link top and bottom makes your 2 links that you have to change to get the master link in. So, no problem. A stock style carrier has .520" of adjustment. Remember that .625" chain pitch? Now that's a crap design. Use a die grinder to lengthen the slot by 3/8" to give you an additional .187" of adjustment for a total adjustment of .707".

Do it, do it. Then post pics of the carnage.

I wonder how many bong hits it took to come up with this idea? http://www.ebay.com/itm/yamaha-banshee-parts-/261003339704?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc502e7b8&vxp=mtr

With the big bore sleeves, is there enough aluminum left to helicoil them?

That wheelie bar is hilarious!!!!

Do you seriously believe this? Or are you just screwing with the new guy? Why would anyone give a fuck what the temp of coolant is going INTO the motor?

61K ohms is WAY high for the secondary. Measuring plug wire to plug wire you should have 5K for the coil and 5K for each plug cap, if you are running resistor caps, for a total of 15K. If you pull your caps off and your coil measures 5K, your caps are shot. Run either resistor caps and non resistor plugs or non resistor caps and resistor plugs. Don't run resistor caps and resistor plugs. It's also possible for a coil to arc internally under load but test OK with an ohm meter. Most bike shops have a coil tester. Ricky Stators have been known to cause all kinds of strange problems, even if they test OK. If you exhaust all other possibilities, see if you can borrow a stock stator and CDI from somebody for a test.

Those are ITP wheels.

None of that makes much sense. It doesn't seem possible for it to run the same on 210 mains as it does with 360 mains. Are you running a Banshee stator and a Banshee CDI? The RZ 350 electronics are different than Banshee. Any chance something is wired wrong? Check the pickup coil gap. Check to see if the flywheel key is sheared and the flywheel is turned slightly so that the timing is late. Check to see if the petcock is plugged up. Check that the gas tank vent is venting. Any chance that the filters are overoiled? Any chance there's a broken reed? Spark plugs fouled? That's about all that I can think of. Your compression is kinda low and your Boysen reeds are crap, but it still should run halfway decent.

All your base are belong to us

Put the overflow bottle in the same place you put the stock airbox. Trash, junk box, back yard, etc.

That's the funniest thing I've seen today. What's even funnier, is the bigfat doesn't get the joke.

Here's an OEM parts look up with exploded diagrams of the the whole motor. Just start making a list of every single little part that you do not have. It's gonna be a big list. Brackets, springs, bolts, washers, bearings, gears, clutch parts, covers, kicker parts, etc. I'll bet you end up spending $2,000 getting your $600 Banshee rideable. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2000-yamaha-banshee-350-yfz350m/o/m145962

Sounds like the tranny is pretty screwed, but to know for sure, you need to dig into it a bit. Drain the tranny oil and see if steel chunks fall out. If so, it's screwed. If not, do as Larry suggested. You're gonna have to pull the clutch to split the cases anyway. Regardless, I wouldn't buy a tranny till you get it apart and see what's going on.

Go to your photobucket album. Point at a pic. Do not click the pic. A list will show below. Click the 1 that says img code. That copies it to your clipboard. When you post, type control + V to paste the link. The pic will appear when you post. Here, I'll give you one.

Mixing xylene or toluene with gas falls into the hillbilly homebrew catagory. Possible unpredictable results and damage to your motor. Check your compression to determine your octane needs. Then go with straight 93, 50/50 of 93 and race gas, or straight race gas.

WOW!! Let me say it again. WOW!! I went to your other thread. Motor melt down on a 23 year old motor that's on stock bore. No mention of the stick or the chain. You were wanting to just throw a top end on it and go without splitting the cases. Now that you find out what it costs to play in this sport, you look for somebody else to pay for your fun. Now we are talking insurance FRAUD. How about if we tell your insurance adjuster that the trans fluid doesn't lubricate the crank bearings or the pistons.

If you want some extra insurance, replace the seal. The seal goes in 1st followed by the bearing. If you replace the seal, it's a good idea to replace the bearing since it's already out.

Mayra Veronica Yeah, she's pretty hot. http://www.omghotgirls.com/mayra-veronica-sexy-pictures-photos-wallpapers-1407.html

On a stock trans, the right rear and front fork are #1 and the left rear fork is a #2.

Then why does it continue to move the shift fork each time you shift it at the end? After you're in 5th, the shift shaft pawl should gleefully hook on nothing each time you shift it, right?

Let me get this straight. You modified the rear suspension geometry, you were jumping it, who knows if the chain was adjusted properly, you didn't have a case saver, the chain came off and cracked the cases, and you turned it into the insurance company? I would be ashamed to admit that something I built didn't go as planned, and I made someone else pay for my problems.

If you're not using 6th gear, the 6th gear pin needs to be cut off the shift star, so that it can't try to go into 6th that is not there. Don't know what to tell you beyond that.

I agree that 300 main is a good place to start. However, don't be surprised if it is pig fat, slobbery rich. I can tell you from experience that it takes a lot more fuel to run paddles across the sand than the same motor in a street bike with very little rolling resistance. Starting out rich and leaning it down is a lot safer than being too lean, enjoying the ride and having your wallet feel the agony of defeat as your right piston gets a 3rd window. I wouldn't be surprised if your final jetting ends up in the 250 to 270 range.

I put the Mull billet gear in all my motors. http://www.mullengineering.com/sc/store.php/products/yamaha-banshee-billet-water-pump-drive-gear-impeller-drag-race-sand-trail-power-online