Starwriter

Yep, the best $8 you can spend on a Banshee. I put them on every Banshee I get. It amazes me that he sells them that cheap. That hole was originally for the auto lube pump on the RZ350. There was no vent there on those bikes.

As mentioned above, typical for the hoop to get bent back. Have you tried to take the tank out? It gets real hard to get the tank out when this happens. The proper way to fix it is to put a porta power in between the hoop and the rear shock upper mount. It's also common for the triangle gusset that the front exhaust mounts bolts to, to crack at the weld to the hoop. Get ahold of one of your auto body shop buddies to help you out with a porta power. I'm sure there's probably a redneck way to do it. Bottle jack and wood blocks. Chain it to a tree and use a come-a-long to pull it forward to another tree. Just don't bend it too far.

If you want to get serious about shaving weight, don't replace any stock plastic parts with billet parts. This includes water pump cover, clutch cover insert, rear brake reservoir, and stator cover. Ditch all the swiss cheese wheel guards. Aluminum foot pegs are about 2 lbs lighter than stock. Some other aluminum parts may or may not be lighter. Shifter, kicker, rear brake pedal, handlebars. I personally, would like to see some carbon fiber handlebars and steering stem. It would be cool to see a thread with accurate comparrisons between stock and aluminum parts. Cut unused brackets off the frame. Some people do some serious cutting on the frame.

If you go to Google, type your search words and then type site:bansheehq.com it will only show results on bansheehq.

About 2000 and newer kx85 and kx100 dirt bikes come with a keihin 28mm PWK. Might be some other 85 and 100 dirt bikes that use the same carb.

There's a clutch switch, reverse switch, and a park brake switch. I would guess any one of those could be causing problems. Check the pickup coil resistance and gap. I found this site with specs. http://www.ehow.com/how_6768154_check-cdi-yamaha-warrior.html

What you had going on is that the spark plugs got so hot they were acting like glow plugs and lighting the fuel much earlier. Essentially, advancing the ignition timing. A lean condition creates extreme heat and then you have a runaway. It's much more common on alcohol motors. I had the exact same thing happen to me. Many years ago, you couldn't just go buy alcohol carbs. I decided I wanted to run alcohol on the dunes. I made a redneck main jet flow meter and figured out what size mains flowed twice as much. I chucked the needles in my electric drill and sanded them down. I put in larger pilots. I mixed up a batch of fuel and fired it up in my garage on the trailer. Warmed it up a bit and all of a sudden, WWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!! Hit the kill switch, still screaming, yanked the plug wires off, still screaming. In a state of panic and disbelief, I winged the throttle and it died. The only thing I could figure out at the time was that the large amount of cold air going into the motor cooled off the plugs. I know exactly what you went through. The state of confusion that exists when the motor sounds like it's about to blow, inside your garage and you have already yanked the plug wires off.

Looks like no, they're not the same. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=90027 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=137528

It's not rocket science. Push the lever with your finger and the arrows should line up. Adjust the pancake till you get it and then tighten the locknut. Here's a thread with pics. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=114695

Take a small sharp pic and tap it sideways into the face of the seal and then pry it out. It's not in there very tight. Just be careful not to nick the case or the shaft. Then just oil the new seal and tap it in there.

So, are you saying what you thought was an oil leak, was dirty water? I would still look real close at that shift shaft seal. If you have a stock plastic stator cover, there is supposed to be a thick rubber gasket. If the gasket is missing, the metal pipes around the bolts should hold the cover away so that the water runs in the top and right out the bottom. Of coarse, I guess if there was lots of silicone sealer... Also, make sure the little rubber piece is in the notch in the vertical wall in front of the neutral switch cover. Water can also get in around the rubber grommet for the stator wires.

Do you own a multimeter? If not you need one. Check continuity of the ignition switch in the run position and that will tell you. We could tell you but you will learn a more valuable lesson by figuring this one out on your own.

Must be really rusted. It's not left hand thread. Heat the nut up pretty hot, let it cool, spray with WD40 or your flavor of choice and it has to come out.

Pull the left foot peg, shifter and stator cover. Don't need to drain fluids. There are 4 places it can leak on the left side. In order of most likely 1st, they are shift shaft seal, countershaft seal(behind sprocket), plastic neutral switch cover, and finally the 2 pressed in plugs about 3/8" in diameter that plug the shift fork shaft holes. If the plastic neutral switch cover is cracked, buy a billet cover from Mattoon.

Uh, which way are you talking about on the play? Up and down or in and out. In and out is normal for the shaft to move inside the bearing. When you tighten down the clutch hub nut, it seats the shoulder of the shaft against the bearing and stops the in and out movement. If it's up and down movement, that sounds bad.

There, now this thread is slightly less dumber.

WOW, you have a worn shift drum and a worn fork and you're gonna put the worn fork in the good slot, and the good fork in the worn slot? Drums and forks are around all over the place for dirt cheap.

What???

Yes, that's correct.

Don't know what you're planning here, but air can transfer between the cylinders at the crank. The "labyrinth seal" in the middle is just a chunk of aluminum with a hole bored in it.

Nebwie

I have an alarm system in my house that is so loud inside that it's painful. It's hard to pick shit up when you're holding your hands over your ears. Of coarse the siren on the outside is even louder. I don't feel too sorry for these schools and business' that say, "someone broke in and stole everything sometime between Friday 5:00PM and Monday 8:00AM". Gee, they probably made 3 or 4 trips hauling stuff away.

You could do the same thing with a round file and a case of beer. You should be done before you run out of beer.

Yamaha didn't provide enough adjustment. So, you can easily run into a situation where the chain is too loose with the adjustment maxed out, and you take out a link (actually 2 links) and the chain won't go on.