Starwriter

I knew this was going to be the issue before I even clicked on this thread. Jeez!!! Why do people do this??? Whoever destroyed your carbs should not be allowed to use a lathe. I hope they aren't doing anything that requires any amount of precision.

If it's the rear bolt, I have heard of guys sticking a long bolt all the way through with a nut on the outside of the other footpeg.

Cool, glad that's what it was. I have run into that problem while trying to bench shift a trans before putting the cases together. Maybe I'll make a plate that bolts to the lower case to hold the shift shaft in place while checking things out without the clutch cover on. Good job getting it all together.

Hide-a-key bracket http://www.ebay.com/itm/ModQuad-Hide-A-Key-Ignition-Switch-Relocator-Aluminum-Yamaha-Banshee-1987-2006-/230779304839?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35bb84bb87&vxp=mtr Or throw it in the trash.

Center to center on the bolt holes is 2.540" across and 1.295" front to back. Measured on a stock steering stem with bolts in the holes. My billet handlebar clamp has overall outside dimensions of 3.090" wide and 1.730" front to back. Of coarse different manufacturers are gonna make the overall dimensions a little different, that gives you a basic idea of the size for your plate.

There is a nub on the clutch cover that keeps the shift shaft from sliding to the right. Without the cover on, the shift shaft can slide out so that it does not catch the pegs on the shift star. Push it in and see if that solves your problem.

You know it's oval, right? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-pro-design-aluminum-pro-flow-airbox-adapter-/261018610218?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc5ebea2a&vxp=mtr

Many aftermarket axles don't have threads at the sprocket hub. They use a special 2 piece nut the pushes against a snap ring. That nut is about $60. Buying a used axle that doesn't come with that nut is not a good deal. Although some different brands may interchange, if the axle requires that special nut and you don't have it, it would be best to get it from the axle manufacturer.

The last one I bought had ported stock cylinders, welded crank, Wiseco pistons, V Force reeds, billet intakes, 33 PWK carbs, K&N pods, billet basket, billet stator cover, T5 pipes, billet footpegs and shifter, chrome A arms, chrome Lonestar roundhouse swinger, Lonestar axle and sprocket hub, Scat Trak haulers and mohawks, blue label wheels, cascade seat, and all of the usual billet goodies, with a title, all for $2500. You couldn't buy that whole pile of parts for $2500. The one before that had ported stock cylinders, cool head, welded crank, Wiseco pistons, V Force reeds, billet intakes, alky lectron carbs, K&N pods, billet basket, override trans, CPI pipes, DMR roundhouse swinger,DMR A arms and spindles, Scat Trak haulers and smooth buffs, blue label wheels, cascade seat, custom paint and powdercoated frame, with a title, all for $2200. Those were both asking price. No haggling required.

For $3000 you can buy a Banshee with at least $4000 worth of aftermarket goodies. So, even if a bone stock Banshee is FREE, there's still better deals out there.

110? Holy fuck fireball!!! Should be about 155 on a Keihin 33 PWK

Just when you think you've seen it all. http://oregoncoast.craigslist.org/mcy/2981624726.html

The early design has a big cast bracket that bolts to the spindle with 2 bolts that are about 2 3/8" apart, near the ball joints. The late design has a small flat plat, like the rear caliper, that bolts to the spindle with 2 bolts that are about 3 1/4" apart. Upper bolt near ball joint, lower bolt quite a ways forward. I'm not sure what year they changed but if you have the early brakes, tell them 87. If you have the late brakes, tell them some year newer than 92. Also late design has pins in the caliper that anchor the pads. The early design has ears on the ends of the pads that go into that big cast bracket, kinda like a Chevy.

No they're not. 87 to about 89 is one type and about 90 and newer is different.

I wouldn't let that slow you down. There are always ways to adapt things to work. I knew a guy many years ago that was a paraplegic and rode a Kawasaki Tecate 3 wheeler on the dunes. They put a 2 cable twist throttle on the left and somehow attached the cables to the transmission to shift. They ran the rear brake line up to the front master cylinder. Bungee cords on the footpegs to hold his feet. I never rode with him, but I heard he rode hard.

Unless they're LEDs, it doesn't matter.

Any no start troubleshooting documentation should contain the follow minimum checklist. Unplug TORS Check that choke tube is between the carbs, if stock carbs Check that float bowl with brass ball is on left, if stock carbs Check for fowled plugs Check compression Check that jets are clean Check float level Check that petcock is flowing gas How to check if the flywheel key is sheared How to check for spark If no spark, how to check the following Ignition coil primary and secondary resistance Ignition switch circuit continuity both on and off (or bypassed) Kill switch circuit continuity both on and off Stator resistance tests and short to ground test Pickup coil gap measurement Check ground attachment points Check for wires melted to exhaust If all this passes, THEN try a known good CDI Would you let a shop work on your car if they said, "We're going to just start replacing parts starting with the cheapest, until it starts"? What if that $25 ebay coil is bad? Now you could potentially have 2 reasons why it won't start.

Unplug the TORS box under the left front of the gas tank.

But you're running drag bars. Normal handlebar rise is 4", so if that riser is 4", it's not actually any taller that running V bars and no riser. However, that riser looks taller than 4".

If the "usual goodies" includes roundhouse swinger, wheels, paddles, billet goodies, it's clean, frame not bent, and comes with a title, go for it.

That's horrible. That's a basic description of how a 2 stroke operates and logic that the best way to solve electrical problems is to replace components starting with the cheapest, until you get it to run. Diagnosing a no start involves checking for spark and proper use of a multimeter.

You should have eliminated that vent while you had the cover off and put on the $8 ebay block off plate. At this point if you are going to keep the vent, snip about an inch of the hose and shove it through.

Unbolt the caliper and remove it. The caliper mounting plate should slide easily back and forth. That's the slide pins. Slide the caliper back over the rotor. Twist it sideways and the piston should easily slide back into the caliper. If not, the caliper needs a rebuild. Also make sure the rear master cylinder is extending all the way when your foot is off the pedal. You won't be able to move the caliper piston if the master cylinder is slightly compressed.

It's not rocket science. Just grind the tips so that the distance from the pin to the edge is even all the way around the tip. (same as the distance from the pin to the flat part of the ramp before you started) Make sure it's square side to side and reasonably smooth. Don't touch the neutral tip and don't bother doing the tip counter clockwise from it. Here's a pic.

Noooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!! Don't heat it. Just get ahold of one of your auto body shop buddies. Trust me it's a 5 minute job with a porta power.