Starwriter

You can also take the spring out of the factory thumb throttle and throw it away. It's only needed for the TORS.

Very nicely done. That's awesome!!!!

Should make it default to 16/41 gearing, 22" tires, and 10,000RPM. 101.74 MPH LOL

I have the Moose version. In the pics, it looks identical to the Terrycable one. I don't know if one copied the other or if they're made at the same facility. The thing I noticed when I bought mine is that the Moose ones are always about the same price. The Terrycable one varies in price and is cheaper. I chose the Moose one for the higher price and possibly better quality. Here's the Moose one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moose-Racing-Dual-Gasser-Billet-Aluminum-ATV-Throttle-0632-0254-Black-/270897841781?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f12c50675&vxp=mtr Overall, I like it a lot. It's a very well made piece. It uses a standard thumb throttle cable. The thumb lever is always usable. The twist can be locked with a pin. It's kind of hard to lock or unlock the pin while riding with gloves on. The twist is pretty fast and can get you into trouble in tight technical stuff with trees and trails. With the twist unlocked, you can still use the thumb easily with minimal danger of twisting the throttle unintentionally. I prefer to lock the twist when I'm doing technical stuff and unlock it when I'm cruising the sand highway, hill climbing and racing. The nice thing too is that you can lock the twist when you let someone else ride it.

Cylinders

Do a compression test so you know where you're at.

If a shop put the jugs on, they should have pressure tested it. Call them and ask them if they did.

Choke tube between the carbs? Was the motor pressure tested after the build? If not, probably an air leak.

Yes, but you can do away with the front vent and the tee. You have to pull the clutch cover off to use this part though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-Clutch-Cover-Vent-Block-off-Plate-/110747369144?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c90ebeb8&vxp=mtr

With VF2s, the back side (carb side) of the cage needs to be against something or the center part will push out. You need the VF2 gasket that has a smaller square hole in it and you need the reed cage to be against the intake. Here is the gasket. http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/newlook/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=13&store_dept_id=619 Here is the type of intake to use, or something similar. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BANSHEE-BILLET-INTAKES-35-39-CARBS-WITH-V-FORCE-2-/320744687311?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aaddf86cf&vxp=mtr Reed spacers have too big of a center hole in them.

Use an inch/lb torque wrench. Foot/lbs X 12 = inch/lbs. 7 foot/lbs X 12 = 84 inch/lbs. My foot/lb torque wrench only goes down to 10 and is for torqueing big block Ford cylinder heads.

Don't turbo motors go through reeds like a hooker goes through condoms?

Is something preventing the master cylinder from releasing all the way? There is a feed hole between the reservoir and the bore that is supposed to be open when the master cylinder is released. When you first start applying the brakes, the piston cup goes past that hole and pressure starts to build in the system. If the master cylinder is partially applied, that hole is not open to the reservoir. As the brake fluid heats up, it expands and applies the brakes because the fluid can't go back into the reservoir, which makes more heat, which builds more pressure till they finally lock completely. When you park it, the fluid cools down, the pressure decreases. Another possibility is that some idiot put oil in the reservoir which swells up all the rubber parts.

gnarly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You get the award for the most impressive carnage!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There is also an electric solenoid type shifter. That would be a lot simpler.

So, let me see if i got this right. You're on too tight of a budget to build a motor, so you think it might make better financial sense to part out your blown up bunch of parts and make enough money to buy a running Shee? Sorry, not gonna happen.

I have a friend that has one and it was kinda cool looking around inside the motor of a bike I had just bought. I took the reeds out and looked in the bottom end too. I was able to read the Wiseco number on the top of the pistons, some work on the transfers and also see that the cases were port matched.

There are a few different connectors over the years.

Have someone with a borescope (sometimes called a video scope) look down the spark plug holes and read the number on top of the pistons. Most auto repair shops have one these days. They're expensive, so unless you have a repair shop buddy, they're probably gonna charge you a bunch for a "look".

Mythbusters did a show on square wheels.

In the US, definitely a site sponser, but in Austrailia, you already have the 2 stroke gods close by. http://twostrokeshop.com/ They are expensive, but are highly respected.

Just couldn't resist doing a google search to flick shit. Never heard of them before this. They sure do suck.

It's not rocket science.Magnets go by coil of wire. Coil of wire makes AC current. AC current goes into rectifier and comes out DC current. Make sure the stator ohms out correctly and is not shorted to ground. Make sure red DC wire isn't shorted to ground. You have your meter set to DC volts, right?

To break 2 of them, I'm guessing you don't own a torque wrench. First thing, go buy a torque wrench. Second, it's scary that you would even have to ask if you can run it with 2 broken case bolts. As for your broken bolts, there's probably enough left that you can grab them with vice grips after you take the cases back apart. If not, I would use a left hand drill bit in a reversible drill. If the bolt is not corroded or jammed in the bottom of the hole, many times that will spin it right out. I'll bet you stretched the other bolts almost to their breaking point.

Haven't you heard of four sake? Crappy garage band that plays out behind their apartment.