Starwriter

Somebody's gonna get a smokin' deal on an axle.

Actually, the front hubs are different. They may interchange, they may not. The early hubs are a much thicker casting. The ears for the wheel studs are the same thickness out to the end. The later style tapers thinner out to the end. The rotors and bolts are definitely different. The later style uses countersunk bolts. The early style does not.

20cc domes + 22cc of water = bent rod

Out of curiousity, I just checked. I have a Blaster and a Banshee kick lever here. The Blaster lever will fit the Banshee stub piece. (Or whatever it's called) The Blaster foot pad part is about an inch or so farther outboard. Don't know if this is good or bad. It's obvious that it won't hit the footpeg and stop like the Banshee lever. Try it and let us know how you like it. You need an impact driver to get it apart. Be careful not to lose the ball and spring.

Are you talking about the kicker idler gear snap ring? If so, it's #11 here. They don't put the kicker idler gear with the transmission. Go figure. http://www.donandroys.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=36055&category=ATVs&make=YAMAHA&year=2000&fveh=921

Looks really good. I like what you've done. Now, ditch the swiss cheese wheel guards and the overflow reservoir. The only real complaint I have is that you put the stock front roller/chain guide on it. Buy a decent front chain guide. Modquad or TM Designworks. While you're at it, put a TM Designworks case saver on it. I know it sucks to spend money on a case saver that doesn't actually make any performance improvement, but the 1st time you throw a chain, you'll be glad you did.

That's a lot of swapping to get done and jetted in a couple weeks. I would say if you're going to have any chance of pulling it off, you should get lower compression domes from the people that made your head, back off the timing and buy some gas carbs and inframe pipes. Then sell your leftovers later. Of coarse, be sure to tell them it's a 4 mil long rod when you order the domes. Just reread your post. You only have 135 psi compression. You don't need different domes.

Like others mentioned, unplug the TORS box under the left front of the tank. Leaving it plugged in and hacking the wires is just asking for trouble.

I had one that the slide pin was so rusted up that it took me 2 hours in a fully equipped shop the night before a ride, to get it apart and back together. There is a thin wall bushing in the caliper. The pin is supposed to slide in that bushing. When I finally got the pin pressed out, the bushing was stuck to the pin. I made special press fixtures in the lathe, drilled the center out of the pin in the drill press, and pressed things apart and pressed the bushing back into the caliper in the hydraulic press. In desperation, I used a front caliper slide pin. It works, but there's no way to seal out water. If you use a complete front caliper, you still need the rear caliper mounting plate. Here's a thread that shows a right front caliper on the rear. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=152261

I'll take the carb. PM sent.

And "local" is where???? That axle would be easier to sell if it had the $60 special nut with it.

Screw that hokey ass OEM rear brake switch and associated linkage and different rear brake lever. Get one of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-banjo-brake-switch-pressure-KTM-suzuki-light-honda-kawasaki-yamaha-MX-/320925564650?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab8a77eea&vxp=mtr

If you gash into the frame with a sawzall and then don't weld it up and grind it smooth, you have just opened up a huge water channel for water to get in between the tube and bolt and make it really rust in the future.

Wow! That sounds like a great deal. That would get the OP up and runnig with just having to buy seals and gaskets.

How much is "not much $$$"? If you think you're going to get this running reliably for $200, sorry, but it's not gonna happen. You definitely need to split the cases to get all the chunks out, and more than likely you're gonna need a new crank. If you don't have at least $700 to dump into it, there's no point in even taking it apart.

No, there isn't.

$8 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-Clutch-Cover-Vent-Block-off-Plate-/110747369144?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c90ebeb8&vxp=mtr

Let me see if I got this straight. You bought a stolen Shee from the thief with the vin ground off. You rebuilt it. You were doing whatever with it and the cops pulled you over and impounded it. Somehow they figured out who the legal owner is and let him recover the bike. Now you bought it from the legal owner with a title that supposedly matches the bike with the ground off vin? 1st mistake-- Buying a bike with a ground off vin and no title 2nd mistake-- Spending money on it without swapping everything over to a clean frame with a vin and a title 3rd mistake-- The situation you're in now. Best thing you can do now-- Buy a clean frame with a vin and title, swap everything over and get rid of the frame with the ground off vin where nobody can ever trace it back to you. This is why you always, always, always buy with a title.

I don't have any experiance with this company, but the pics are amazing. http://www.piperepair.com/

On the newer Shees, there is also a push button switch built into the front master cylinder to turn on the brake light. It's a different master cylinder with a switch location cast into it. For a retrofit, I would definitely use that brake pressure banjo bolt that you posted the link to. Nice and clean. You only need it for the rear master cylinder. If you really want it in the front too, you could put one on the front master and run wires down the bars. I personally like as little stuff on the bars as possible. You also need a tail light with a dual filament bulb. The newer Banshee tail light is big and clunky. There must be something smaller and nicer. And if you put a truck oval sealed beam tail light on it, I'm gonna kick your ass.

Beat the living dog snot out of it with the biggest hammer you got. Sometimes it's more successful with an air hammer. If it moves and then stops, pound it back and forth. They can be a real bitch.

So....... You're the guy with the stock carbs bored out so big you can see daylight on each side of the slide....... Were these carbs on the motor when it blew? If so, there's your problem. At this point, you might as well split the cases to get all the piston chunks out of the bottom. As long as it's apart, you might as well put a crank in it. Then, take those stock carbs and smash them with a hammer so nobody attempts to use them.

If it really serves any purpose, find someone in your area that's really good at TIG welding and have it welded back together. I have seen my TIG welding guy weld .008" thick stainless.

A 93 Banshee IS an A arm bike. J arms were 87-90.