Starwriter

Just don't wear bell bottom pants when you ride. Like mentioned, buy a billet cover.

Soooooo... You took your Shee to a local guy. What was his name? Ben? He diagnosed it as broken impeller and melted pistons, charged you $500 and now it's fucked again?

You're missing the point. After you cut the peg loose and set it up against the mounting plate in between the bolt holes, the peg is going to touch the plate at the front of the peg and have a gap at the back. Lay a piece of flat bar or rod in the gap and weld it all up. Done. But first, diagnose and fix why your posts show up twice.

No, it's not. Lay a piece of bar or bolt or anything in the gap and weld it up.

Cut the weld loose on your stock pegs. Cut the mounting plate off forward of the front bolt hole. Weld the pegs back on in between the bolt holes. Shorten the shifter. Done. You can shorten the brake pedal if you want. If you have long legs, moving the pegs back and down, helps take away some of the knees in your chest feeling. Also with a +6 or so swingarm, it gives a more balanced feeling. That's my opinion.

Trying to bling out a Blaster a bit and don't really wanna spend $150 on a stator cover. Anyone have something laying around? Might also consider a billet oil pump cover too.

$25 shipped for just the right caliper with mounting bracket, slide pins and banjo bolt. Paypal ready. Don't need the hose. Just so there's no confusion, the right caliper is the one on the left in your pics. PM sent.

A stock style carrier has .520" of adjustment. chain pitch is .625". Now that's a crap design. Use a die grinder to lengthen the slot by 3/8" to give you an additional .187" of adjustment for a total adjustment of .707". You could have just gone 1 tooth smaller on the front.

It amazes me that so many knowledgeable people on here don't know that the arrow on the pressure plate is supposed to line up with the dimple on the inner hub. The basket has nothing to do with the alignment. Also, you did the inside clutch adjustment wrong. When the adjustment is correct, when you push the lever on top of the case with light pressure, it should line up with the arrow on top of the case.

The rule on any type of threaded end is that you need 1 1/2 times the diameter, threaded into the tie rod. So, if the threads are 12mm, you need 18mm (about 3/4") screwed into the tie rod. Anything less than that could be unsafe.

Like I mentioned, that one is a good deal for a low budget one. If you want a better deal, look around for something in the $2500- $3,000 range with about $5,000 worth of aftermarket goodies. They're out there. You just have to look for them. There's a lot better deals out there around October- December.

That's a good deal. Here's the link to the ad. http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/mcy/3117087142.html You could get a better deal by spending more money on something with a lot more aftermarket goodies, but for a low budget Banshee, that's a good deal. Most Banshees $2,000 or less are totally whipped out and almost completely stock.

UPS will deny the claim based on "insufficient packaging". That's what they do. They will send the part back to the shipper and then you have to deal with them. I've been through this. I have even heard of one where there was a fork lift tire track across the box and they still claimed "insufficient packaging". Here's some interesting reading material on the subject. http://www.google.com/search?num=100&hl=en&safe=off&complete=0&biw=1409&bih=1007&site=webhp&q=ups+%22%22insufficient+packaging%22%22&oq=ups+%22%22insufficient+packaging%22%22&gs_l=serp.3...53103.55748.0.56761.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0...0.0.D86cpA7Apak Best to just get a gear from someone on here and buy a billet basket.

Looks good!! You are going to split the cases, have the crank checked, inspect the trans, and put all new seals in, right?

I have no experience with any of them but after reading all the negative feedback comments for ASI, there's no way I would buy from them. If you buy from HJR, you can be sure Kevin will stand behind his product.

Assbackwards. Going up in elevation, air is less dense, and requires less fuel.

They have a shitload more bottom end but they're a pain in the ass to ride.

It's got spindle mounts AND front brakes. I have wondered for a long time if that was possible. Very cool!!!!

He doesn't mention the aftermarket A arms that it has. What kind of a deal it is, depends on what's done inside the motor. If it's ported, bored, fresh pistons, welded crank, etc., then $3,500 would actually be a pretty good deal. Not a red hot, run to the bank, smokin deal, but not bad. Of coarse, you need receipts and trust to go along with that stuff.

Same guy trying to sell them here with only 1 post to his name. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=156606

Do you guys have those white plastic reflector posts beside the road? I wonder if you could make a chain guide out of one of those. If your Rube Goldberg chain guide comes loose, it's gonna go through the front sprocket and really raise hell.

I hate to say, I told you so, but... Still, the stock chain guide should have lasted longer than that. Good luck with the lawn edging. Sounds iffy. If you back off the preload on your rear shock, that will lower the back end and put less pressure on the guide.

What "middle roller" are you talking about? There's a front chain guide, rear chain guide, and the 2 frame rollers. The top frame roller isn' really necessary. Are you saying that the chain was rubbing the skid plate and the chain got so hot it melted plastic? That seems hard to believe. Regardless, there must be someplace within half a days drive to get the part. Post where you're at. Maybe there's a BHQer closer than you think.

1st you need a Clymer manual 2nd you need a torque wrench 3rd there is no such thing as an outer hub. There's an inner hub, clutch basket, and a pressure plate.

I'll bet you didn't line up the pressure plate right. One of the arrows on the pressure plate needs to line up with the dimple on the inner hub. If you don't line it up right, the pressure plate won't clamp down on the fibers.