Starwriter

A "shop" did that? Holy crap!!!!! What shop?

7 FOOT lbs which works out to be 84 inch lbs.

Holy silicone sealer batman!! Ya think any of that got into the radiator?

That holes supposed to be there. It's a drain hole for gas, water, urine, etc. to run through. There's also one in the middle right behind the cylinders.

Looks like they were $325 back in 2006. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=69842 Shoot an overhead view of that mount and the upper steering stem bushing/mounting bolts and we'll be able to tell you exactly what's wrong.

You might wanna be a little more specific. 88-02 Blaster uses the floating brake disc. 03-06 uses a fixed disc like a Banshee. The axles are different. So, if you're wanting to put a narrow Blaster axle in a Banshee, you need one out of an 30-06.

And that's the cheapest place to buy it from. Note that it comes with the adapters for both small and big carbs. There is one available that only comes with the small adapter. Then if (when) you upgrade to 33mm or bigger carbs, you're out of luck.

Sometimes the water pump gear chews out where the drive pin sits in the groove.

The springs are stock Yamaha parts. They hook into holes in the front motor mount plates that bolt to the frame. The logo on your carb caps is definitely Moose.

Looks like there's something wrong with the upper mount. Might be locating the top of the radiator too far forward. Post a pic of the mount from above.

I assume that you're not talking about a run away. A run away is when the spark plugs get so hot from a lean condition that they act like glow plugs and the motor screams. When that happens, the kill switch will not shut it down. Just to eliminate that, hit the kill switch when it happens and see if the motor dies.

No, you should do a leakdown test.

Ideally it would be nice to have a DMV bill of sale, along with the certificate, from the original buyers name on the certificate. If you're buying it from the original buyer, then your name would be on the bill of sale as the buyer. If it has changed hands multiple times, it would be nice to have a paper trail of bills of sale from each buyer to seller and finally to you. It would be best to find out exactly what the seller has and talk to your local DMV.

Here's a list of tools that every Banshee owner should own. Flywheel puller Impact driver Compression gauge Carb sync tool Leakdown tester Low pressure tire gauge You can't make lots of power if you only have 100 lbs of compression. You can't make it run right if you have an air leak or your carbs aren't synced. While you're in there doing the timing plate, put in a TM Designworks case saver and replace the shift shaft seal. It's probably leaking. Inspect the front sprocket and replace if it's worn. Then replace the phillips head stator cover bolts with allen bolts.

Take the spring out of the thumb throttle. The only reason it's in there is so that the TORS will work. Buy a billet extended thumb throttle lever. I prefer the one that's made for the YFZ450. It's longer than stock, but not as long as the one for a Banshee.

Welcome to BHQ. Yes, you are correct. The bolts have a shoulder that is larger than the threads.

You can't just replace the lower half. You're talking about complete engine disassembly and case replacement.

Talk this guy down to $3500 and you're good to go. Even if you want to set it up a little differently, there's a lot of high dollar trading stock there. http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/mcy/3164549232.html

There's 1 small one in the transmission. It's quite a bit smaller than the crank and other tranny one. It's number 18 in this pic. http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/YAMAHA/2000/ATVs/921_transmission.gif

Pipes, filters, jetting, advance timing +4 degrees, case saver. Beyond that, split the cases, have the crank trued and welded (If the crank is trashed, upon inspection, buy a new Hot Rods crank), billet water pump gear and impeller, and a few tranny mods to make it shift better. Start out with a good bottom end foundation and then you can always improve on the top end several ways in various stages. Ported stock cylinders, cool head, reeds, intakes, carbs, cheetah cylinders, etc. Shocks, A arms, swingarm, axle, wheels, tires and bling are all things that can be done one thing at a time.

Parts were exactly as described. Shipped fast and packed well enough to survive a plane crash. Each part was wrapped in a new red shop rag and duct taped. Thanks for the shop rags!!

This is exactly why front wheel spacers suck big time.

I'm gonna guess, no. There's oil resting in the hub. It looks like there's slight wear marks on the hub from the steels. The hex hole in the pressure plate is just slightly burred.

These days, you can buy a very nice, well built Banshee for $2,500 to $2,700. Even if you got a mint all stock Banshee for FREE, it's still cheaper to buy one already built. For example, the last one I bought. Ported, matched cases, welded crank, bored to 64.50, wiseco pistons, cylinders polished, Vforce reeds, billet intakes, 33mm PWKs, K&N pods, polished clutch cover, billet stator cover, foot pegs, shifter, clutch insert, water pump cover, reservoir covers, handlebar clamp, Toomey T5 pipes, Lonestar +4 chrome roundhouse swinger, Lonestar axle, Douglas blue label wheels, scat trac haulers and mohawks, chromed stock A arms, kick starter, and rear brake pedal. $2,500 with a title. And that was asking price. I didn't even try to talk him down. I drove 520 miles, round trip, to pick it up.