Starwriter

Yeah, not a lot of monetary value there. It's common to grind bits for special jobs. Cutting snap ring grooves, threads, etc. If you have any that look like they have a small piece of metal brazed on the end, those are carbide bits. They have a little more value. Carbide bits cut better and stay sharp longer, but it takes special wheels to sharpen them.

I can't believe you're riding it without a filter. That would lean it out slightly. But the bigger issue is the risk of sucking rocks into your motor.

A flywheel puller is only $15. It's one of those must have tools. Right along with a leakdown tester, carb sync tool, and compression gauge.

I sold him an ITP rim. Communication was prompt and he paid super fast after we struck a deal. No screwin around here. Awesome buyer.

Contrary to the name, do not mount the bench grinder to the bench. Fab a stand and mount it to that so that it's mobile. Grinders are messy. You don't want to be grinding the corners off a bracket you just made right next to a motor that you're assembling. You need something round and really heavy, like a semi truck brake drum. Heavy so it won't tip over, round so you can move it by tipping it and rolling it. Makes it easy to clean behind it and also move it outside when you have lots of grinding to do. Bolt the grinder to the stand. Mount a water pan to it like a tupperware container or something. Something that holds between a pint and a quart. If it only holds a few ounces, the water evaporates and it's always empty.

So, what is it?

If you go to the bottom of this thread you will see that 1 guy says a Raptor axle has a different thread pitch. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20231 Also, on your pics, the threads and splines look rolled. I doubt any of the aftermarket companies have the equipment to roll threads and splines. They're probably all cut with a lathe and a milling machine, so it's probable that yours is an OEM axle out of something.

Before you tear the clutch apart, check the cable at the lever. I have seen all the strands break except 1 and that 1 strand stretches just before it breaks. As mentioned, probably a problem with the clutch ball or pusher, but it would suck to tear into the clutch and then find out it was just the cable.

I have a single ITP wheel that might match your left front. 10" X 5". It's 3" to the inside, 2" to the outside. If you are interested, I can post pics. $25 shipped, including pp fees.

If you can force yourself to scroll past the 1st pic in this thread, you'll see a lot of people running 50 pilot at or slightly above sea level. The people running smaller pilots are at higher elevations. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99361

50 pilots and 155 mains CEL needle

If it feels like it's trying to go while running in neutral that has nothing to do with the clutch. I recently went through what was probably the same situation with a friends bike. We were going to put a new chain on and the front sprocket wouldn't turn. I made sure it was in neutral and it took a lot of force to turn the sprocket and when it did turn, the flywheel sorta turned. We split the cases and found that the bushing inside 2nd gear had shifted sideways and caused that freewheeling gear to be in a bind and not spin freely on the shaft. We got a new bushing from a company back east that deals with RZ350 stuff and we glued it in the gear with some thermoneuclear bearing/bushing glue.

Looks to me like that boogered up part is just the outer bearing race. Pound out the race with a long punch from the other side. You may need to grind a groove in the race lengthwise with a dremel to make it pound out easier. Then see what the swingarm looks like after that. Be careful not to grind into the swingarm.

89 and 90 are 4x156. All other years, before and after are 4x115. The cool thing about 89-90 is that in an emergency, you can use a spare front wheel on the rear. Blaster is 4x100 4x110 is commonly used on Honda.

Those aren't Banshee shocks. Front Banshee shocks have about 15 coils.

97 Blaster brake hub is definitely NOT the same as a Banshee. 88 to 02 Blaster had a floating brake disc and a fixed cable operated caliper. 03 to 06 Blaster had a fixed brake disc and hydraulic caliper like a Banshee. Make sure your boots and wire snap rings are in good shape to keep the water out of the splines.

The upper radiator mount is correct. I'm pretty sure the upper frame hoop is bent back. Very common after a roll over. This puts the steering stem in a bind and it's hard to get the gas tank out as well as the plastics not fitting right. Unbolt the upper steering stem bushing and I'll bet the steering stem springs forward. To bend the hoop forward, put a port-o-power or bottle jack between the hoop and the rear shock upper mount frame tube. It's common for the triangle shaped gusset to crack where it's welded to the hoop.

If they're stock carbs, there is DEFINATELY supposed to be a choke tube between the carbs. On stock carbs, the choke knob pulls out horizontally on the left carb. The right carb noes not have a choke knob

What??? And then what did you do? Left the carb hanging by the cable?

Just bought a grab bag of miscellaneous bolts and goodies. John threw in a bunch of extra stuff. Always a pleasure to deal with. Thanks soooooo much!!!!!

It is fairly common for a CDI box to fail like that. Common enough that banging on the CDI is actually a diagnostic procedure. Buy a used stock CDI.

Having a brake light is a good thing day or night. It's nice to let your buddy behind you know you're stopping just in time to keep from going over a cliff and you don't need a love tap to send you over the edge. You can also work out brake light flash signals to let your buddy know what's going on.

Different JD. I'm sure the OP is talking about JD Racing out of Hillsborro. They built very fast Banshee motors in the 90's. They're long gone now. I wonder what Chad is up to these days. This thread tells a bit about them. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=134055&st=0 To the OP, the only way you're gonna know what he's got is to start measuring stuff.

Somebody needs to be the BHQ guinea pig and try these guys out. http://www.piperepair.com/

Vicegrips