Starwriter

Why don't you do some diagnostic work 1st? Maybe it's just unplugged. Maybe it doesn't have a good ground. Maybe there's a Billy Bob redneck wire repair in the harness that fell apart. Take the seat off and check the voltage with a multimeter at the regulator with the engine revved up.

Here's the pics of the CPI silencers and stingers.

These things? PM me your name and address and I'll throw them in the mail, no charge.

So, the red/black wire is connected to the black wire and you wonder why the key won't shut it off? DUH!!!

Did you put the sprocket nut on backwards? There's a recess in the side that goes towards the sprocket. When you tighten up the nut, it should tighten up the stack of bearing, spacer, sprocket and lockplate. There's no way it can move if the nut is smashing everything together. No, there's no spacer on the other side.

I've got a pair of CPI silencers and stingers. $140 shipped including paypal fee. If you're interested, I can post pics.

Neutral switch cover. Buy a billet one with a new o-ring. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BANSHEE-DRAG-RACING-BILLET-NEUTRAL-SWITCH-COVER-MFG-by-Mattoon-Machine-/320971811167?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4abb69295f

The carb isn't seated in the intake boot. Maybe it got knocked loose in shipping and you have an air leak. Definitely oil that filter and get an outerwear.

Only 2 of the wires on the key switch are used. There are 2 wires in the harness and 4 wires on the other side of the connector. Ignore the wire colors on the key switch side of the connector. The red/black wire MUST be grounded for the bike to run. So, either you have the key switch contacts that are not opening in the off position or the red/black wire is shorted to ground somewhere in the harness. TOTALLY separate problem from the kill switch. Now that the engine dies when you short the black/white wire to ground, check that kill switch like I told you to.

Yes, thats the correct place to measure, but you need to hold it sideways so that it doesn't compress the spring loaded needle. Tip it sideways with the float pivot pin at the top. Tilt the carb till the float just bumps against the needle. Not sure on spec. Don't have my Clymer here with me.

Exhaust stinger. The 1 inchish pipe that goes to the silencers. It's common for the wires to get up against it and get melted.

No, you have 2 separate problems. When you grounded the black/white wire, did you ground the end that goes into the harness or the end that goes up to the bars. You need to ground the end that goes into the harness. If that's what you did, then you have an open circuit somewhere between there and the CDI box at the back. Has somebody done some half ass wire repairs to the wire harness underneath the seat beside the right stinger? It's common for wires to get melted there. Maybe something came apart.

You have 2 separate problems. The black/white kill switch wire gets connected to ground through the kill switch to shut the motor off. The red/black wire gets connected to ground through the key switch to make the engine run. If the red/black wire does not have a complete circuit to ground, the bike will NOT run. Let's start with the kill switch. Take the kill switch apart and you will probably find that the block with the wires soldered to it has jumped out of place on the left side. It's a shit design and I haven't figured out a good solution to keep it in place. Epoxy is probably the only easy way. It's also possible that a wire broke off at 1 of the solder connections there.

Oh boy!!! Here we go. Motorcityatv aka minkia38 aka rattlecan Ray. Go to the feedback section, bad buyer/seller. 17 pages of comments.

I was mainly going to do it to help you out and for me to get a caliper rebuild kit minus bolts for just the price of shipping the bracket. The bracket is only $10 shipped for a brand new one, so a used one isn't worth very much and it's gonna cost a buck or 2 to ship it. So, that being said, I'll leave the ball in your court. Whatever you want to do works for me. http://www.ebay.com/itm/banshee-warrior-350-NEW-rear-caliper-raptor-bracket-mount-blaster-/271046869597?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1ba7025d

How about this. I'll send you a good used rear mounting plate for free. You buy a Moose rear caliper kit, keep the bolts and lock plate and send the rest of the kit to me.

I guess I had a minor brain fade there. If you're doing the front caliper swap, you only need the mounting plate. (which East Coast sells separately) However, having spare rear slide pins and boots in the tool box is never a bad thing.

You can buy the mounting plate, slide pins, and slide pin boots new from East Coast ATV. I've bought them before. Works real nice if you want to put a right front caliper on the rear. Yamaha only sells those parts with a whole complete caliper. http://www.ebay.com/itm/banshee-warrior-350-NEW-rear-caliper-raptor-bracket-mount-blaster-pin-seals-/271046869600?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1ba70260&vxp=mtr Moose makes a rear caliper rebuild kit that has everything else. I've never bought one though. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=moose+caliper+rebuild+banshee&_in_kw=1&_ex_kw=&_sacat=0&_okw=&_oexkw=&_adv=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_ftrt=901&_ftrv=1&_sabdlo=&_sabdhi=&_samilow=&_samihi=&_sadis=200&_fpos=&_fsct=&LH_SALE_CURRENCY=0&_sop=3&_dmd=1&_ipg=50

I think this is a pretty accurate representation of the differences, with pics. Just don't buy anything from this clown. http://www.motorcityatv.com/electronics/

This happened to a friend of mines Shee. The idiot that had it before used RED loctite on EVERYTHING, including those tank bolts. As mentioned, cut the heads off, then try to work on it with vicegrips. That way, the only thing your risking is the tank and there are lots of those out there. Luckily for my friend, I had a spare tank.

You're 38 miles from Tulsa. Hop in the car, go get your jets, grab lunch at Hooters and be back in time to watch Dr. Oz.

Wow! Even if the bigger pilots solves the problem, you could still have an air leak. Isn't it worth the peace of mind to just leakdown test it and make sure? You are already gonna have the carbs off. It only takes a few minutes to pull the pipes. If you have to order the pilots, you're going to be sitting on your thumbs till they get there anyway.

I would do a leakdown test before you ride it again. Could very well be an air leak. Could also be throttle cable hanging up.

I called them a couple times, a few weeks ago and they answered the phone both times. I needed a billet part that only they sell. They shipped it right out. I was really happy with the transaction.

Cable luber FTW.