Starwriter

If the red to green wires on the stator show open, it's definitely not going to run with that stator. I have seen the secondary side of a coil measure open and still work. The high voltage can get through high resistance or jump a gap. Your coil may be on it's way out but still functioning. If the primary side is open, it's not going to work. Go to the link 1CrazyBastard posted above. If your pickup coil and lighting coil are in spec, there's nothing wrong with your meter.

When was the last time you lubed your clutch cable?

I've got a nice one off an '05. Complete assembly, missing 1 cable adjuster and 1 nut on the bottom. $22 shipped medium flat rate priority mail box. It doesn't really fit in the small flat rate box.

I hate to disagree, but acording to my calculations, that's 3 pins too short. 520 chain is 5/8" pitch. (.625") 6'=72" 72" divided by .625" = 115 pins

and is basically the same as 13-41.

That looks like somebody tried to jamb a crank seal in there without splitting the cases.

Stock length is 104 pins. You need 3.2 pins for each additional inch of length. So, 4" X 3.2 = 12.8 rounded up to the nearest even number is 14. So, 118 pins for a +4 swinger. Or if you're not good at math, you can go here. http://www.metaltechproducts.com/Chain_Calculator.htm

Yep. sounds like it's bent. Run your finger over the back side of the J arm just outside the reinforcing gusset. (about 3" out from the bushing) If you feel ripples in the tube, the J arm is bent. In the top left corner of this pic, you see 2 shiny spots with a dark spot in between on the J arm. Those are the ripples.

Make sure your shift forks are in the correct locations. Number 2 goes in the left rear. Number 1 forks go in the right rear location and the front location.

89-90 Banshees had 4/156 on the front and rear.

Here's a couple for you.

Nice!!!! Sounds like you scored. Get ahold of Sesame Street and see if they want to sponsor you.

Chrome aftermarket A arms, +something wider, +something forward. New price somewhere between $500 & $800 depending on brand Billet stator cover. New price $250 to $300 Chrome aftermarket pipes. You mentioned CPI. Those are worth a few bills right there. Billet thumb throttle cover, brake reservoir cover, and gas cap. Aftermarket front bumper. Tether kill switch. Looks like it might be a billet clutch basket. Hard to tell from the pic. Is that a chrome swinger? Round house? The guy definitely liked yellow. In addition to what others mentioned, that's about all that can be figured out from the pics. Usually when you see a billet stator cover, it's a good sign that somebody dumped a ton of money into it. I would split the cases and inspect everything.

Disengage the clutch and put it in gear. If it still makes noise, it can't be in the transmission as nothing is turning in the transmission then.

Definitely not "normal". LOL. The clip inside the boot is not snapping tight onto the plug and it's arcing. Temporary fix, squeeze the boot with pliers, to squeeze the clip tighter. Permanent fix, unscrew the boots from the wires, snip off 1/2" of wire and screw on new boots.

Jesus tapdancing Christ. There's nothing wrong with your CDI. Remember this post? "So I took a second shot at grounding the wire and it shut off "

Unplug the CDI box. Connect your multimeter to the black and black/white wires at the CDI connector. Your multimeter should show open circuit with the kill switch in the run position and just a few ohms of resistance in the stop position. If you don't have that, then things are not OK.

Stock upper A arms are 10 1/2" from pivot bolt center to ball joint center.

That link you posted is double row bearings. Not even close to working. Stock bearings are single row. What you want to do is possible, but to do it right, it's too much work for 1 race. You would need to take very precise measurements and make a spacer tube and outer bearing race spacer rings in a lathe. The problem is that 62 X 40 bearings are narrower than 62 X 35 bearings, so you need a wider space between the bearings for the sprocket and brake disc to line up properly. You can probably half ass it with a piece of water pipe and a hack saw, but things could come apart or fail and destroy other parts or cause a crash.

Buying all the rest of the parts a piece at a time with shipping, is going to cost you twice as much as you can buy a built running Banshee for. You can buy a running Banshee with $5,000 worth of aftermarket parts for $2,500 with a title.

Awesome seller. Great communication. Super fast shipping. Nice part.

3/4" bolt has a 1 1/8" head on it.

Pry upper and lower seals out with screwdriver. Use your tool of choice to unscrew bearing retainer out counterclockwise. Pound bearing upwards from the bottom.

Take the bearing and seals out and replace them. It's only $15 for the bearing and both seals. They do go bad. And if you don't want to look like an idiot, cut the unused brackets off the frame. Here's the tool I use to remove the bearing retainer. Some people take a bolt and jamb 2 nuts together on the bolt and then use a wrench or socket.

I have a bunch of the 87-89 calipers if you need some.