Starwriter

Gotta split the cases. There's a snap ring that holds the bearing in place.

Well, I'll be go to hell. You really can buy all the OEM connectors. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/sealed.html

Why would you want to hook the TORS back up????? If you need the headlight/kill connector and the stator connector, you might as well buy a used complete harness and be done. No splicing and probably the same price.

Just a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water. Not real critical. Congrats on a great score. Now let's see some pics. Send a PM to NYUK for that clip. He parts out a lot of Banshees and probably has a bunch of them. I recently got a grab bag of all kinds of misc. nuts, bolts, clips, etc. from him.

Put it in a hydraulic press.

Actually, after thinking about it a bit more, since it does it with the clutch disengaged, it's probably not a trans problem. You can get a little more movement of clutch pressure plate by turning the setscrew on the ASV lever so that the lever is farther from the bars, allowing more dissengagement.

Put the trans in neutral. Try to turn the front sprocket. If it's really hard to turn and the flywheel moves slightly when you turn the sprocket, the bushing inside 2nd gear has moved sideways and is binding up the trans.

Wow! You didn't get much. I hope you realize it's going to cost you about $2,500 to piece that together, above whatever you paid for that.

Are you gonna do anything while you're in there? Tru and weld crank Replace all seals Porting Mod trans Advance timing Billet pump impeller and gear Pancake bearing Etc. etc.

I would say it's a pretty good guess that the carnage is related to one of his earlier posts. "So the idler gear cam in today and I got the entire clutch assembly reinstalled. All was fine and dandy until I started it up, the second I pull the clutch lever, I hear what sounds like a metal on metal grinding."

A key isn't going to stop anyone from stealing it, but if you really want one, it's not that difficult to put one back on it. As far as headlights, if nobody chopped the harness, it's just 2 bolts and plug them in. The stock headlight/kill switch is still there. Now go buy the thing before somebody else does.

Yamaha lists them having different part numbers, but that's just because of the different colors.

There is no way an eccentric can be defective enough to limit travel enough to prevent it from going into the next gear. My next guess is going to be that you don't have the clutch assembled and both trans shafts are gleefully spinning together, preventing engagement of the dogs.

Are you shifting without the engine running? You have to spin the trans to get the dogs to line up for it to go into the next gear.

He has been trying to sell it for awhile. He has listed it for as high as $3250. Some of his other listings give a lot more details. He even has the title. I am really surprised nobody has snatched this up. Call him up, tell him you have $2200 cash burning a hole in your pocket and you'll be there in an hour. Here's a link to his previous listings. http://miami.craigslist.org/search/?areaID=20&subAreaID=&query=3701+banshee&catAbb=sss

You should definitely go look at that one. Here are some of the goodies you can see in the crappy pics. Ballpark new prices. Antivibe steering stem $300 Billet stator cover $300 A arms $300+ shocks $300+ Billet intakes V Force reeds Stock carbs with TORS removed The T5 pipes are rough but usable Misc cascade billet pieces Looks like it might have ASV levers Nobody spends that kind of money on billet stator cover and steering stem without 1st spending money on other goodies. Go buy it!!!!!

I wouldn't buy it. There's definitely got to be better deals out there. You might have to step up to the $2500 to $2800 range, but you'll definitely end up spending less money in the long run. The guy put his front shocks on upside down. Do you really trust anything he has to say?

As much as we would like to help you, only you can take it all back apart and find what you put together wrong. Make sure the clutch cable housing is properly in the end holders. Check the washer before and after the basket. Go back through the bottom end assembly walkthrough. Let us know what you find.

I was thinking it would be cool to have the 2 35w ones in the stock locations wired to the low beam circuit and the single 75w one on the bars wired to the high beam circuit for panning the horizon. If you had a billet clamp with a key switch hole, you could mount it there with some washers.

It's not rocket science. The springs push on the pressure plate. The pressure plate clamps the steels and fibers together and makes the bike go. Something is obviously holding the pressure plate away. The pressure plate can go 6 different ways. Only 3 will work. If that's not it, and you have free play at the lever, then you're just going to have to take it apart and see what you assembled wrong. You are using a torque wrench on the 6 pressure plate bols, right?

I went back and looked through your posts. I remember when you posted pics of your 3 wheelers. Some of the nicest 3 wheelers I have seen in a long time. I have no doubt that your Banshee is going to be just as nice. I would try to straighten that subframe before you put it all back together. Anchor the frame down near the footpegs somehow and then use a jack and wood blocks to raise the back of the subframe. You might be able to put a 2 X 12 through the frame and drive a car on the board on each side or something. Get creative. It's no good the way it is. It's a gradual bend that should straighten out nicely. Worst case, it breaks off and then you cut it and weld on a new piece.

I'll bet you didn't line up 1 of the arrows on the pressure plate with the dimple on the inner clutch hub. The pressure plate doesn't mesh with the inner hub properly and it ends up looking like this.

Definitely not CPI. And your rear subframe is definitely bent down. The rear 16" should be almost perfectly straight. This is a CPI. Notice that the 1st seam is a lot farther down the pipe than yours. Also, CPI stingers are not bent tubing. They are made of straight pieces of tubing welded together. And those aren't CPI silencers.

Broken eccentric bolt.

Man, this is one sweet ass drag bike. http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/grd/3323539639.html