Starwriter

Personally, I wouldn't give over $100 for the whole set. If you get just the rears for $75, I guess you're not doing too bad.

÷3 795 is a long rod Banshee piston. Not a Blaster piston. Blaster has a different dome angle than Banshee.

$350??????? Holy fuck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Mattoon and I'm pretty sure Wicked. I think it's a pretty safe bet that they all interchange except Trinity and D&D.

If you pull the spark plug and it's smashed, that's bad. If you pull the right pipe and you can see the connecting rod, that's bad. If you shake out the pipe and pieces of piston fall out, that's bad.

http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=asi_performance&iid=280879278119&de=off&items=25&which=negative&interval=365&_trkparms=negative_365 http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=asi_performance&iid=280879278119&de=off&items=25&which=neutral&interval=365&_trkparms=neutral_365

I have a dual gasser. Thumb and twist both. I really like the thumb for tight winding trails and technical stuff and pull the pin to use the twist for flats, racing or if your thumb gets tired.

In addition to everything mentioned, if you're going to run pods, cut off the airbox mounts. Cut off the TORS control box mount. It doesn't show, but get rid of it anyway. X2 on the steering stop mod. It may even be kinda mushed on the side contact points and need to be built up with a welder. Check to see how far the steering turns before you take the suspension apart. Buy a new lower steering stem bearing and seal kit. It's only $15. You'll need something like this to get the bearing out.

You need to buy a Clymer manual. It will go into detail on measuring the thickness of the clutch plates, how to adjust the internal pressure plate adjustment, proper assembly procedures, and the torque specs.

Good find. Now that's the way to buy a Banshee. Even if it's not set up quite how you want it, sell some aftermarket goodies and use the money to buy what you want. As far as weight difference, a few things to consider are that '87 didn't have footbaskets, so that's probably 5 lbs. At some point they changed the swingarm carrier bolt design to 2 long bolts with spacer tubes, instead of 4 short bolts, so that's probably 1 pound. So, for the actual J arm vs A arm suspension, it's probably only about 3 lbs difference. Maybe less, considering that the early brake calipers with the big cast iron brackets are probably heavier than the later ones.

WTF? Wouldn't that have the same result as setting it at 0?

Not bad. Good job on getting him down to a realistic price. It is a clean bike to start building on. Now you need to think about splitting the cases and having the crank trued and welded before it separates. With stock compression and timing, it will probably be OK for awhile, but you never know.

It is very clean looking, but I wouldn't buy it. These days, if you look around, you can find one with $3K to $5K worth of aftermarket goodies for somewhere between $2,200 and $2,800. I look for deals that are good enough that if it blows up, worst case, you can part it out and make a profit. Even if it's not set up quite the way you want, you can always sell aftermarket goodies and buy other parts.

Here's another one for you. With all the goodies this one has, I don't see how you could go wrong. http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/mcy/3307798804.html

Here's another listing for the same bike with more details and a complete phone number. Call him up. http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/mcy/3352041705.html

This one looks really good in your area. Worth checking out. http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/mcy/3352044857.html

Maybe you need a new torque wrench.

Read, read, read, it's all over this site, but the basics are no spacer plate, cylinders ported for 4mil, domes cut for 4 mil, #795 pistons for long rod crank.

No, the stock charging system has 1 wire coming out of the stator. It's yellow/red on your '03. After you float the ground, you will have 2.

OK, cool. Thanks. Once you find where everything moved to, there really are some cool new features.

How do you turn off the Gah Dam shoutbox doorbell?

Glad to help. Post more pics when you get it hooked up and working. I have thought for a long time that this kill switch is interesting, but never looked into making one fit. It replaces the cap on the clutch lever perch. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZETA-YZ250-Billet-Perch-Clamp-Style-Kill-Switch-Button-Yamaha-YZ-250-/230870085615?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c0edefef&vxp=mtr

Not exactly. There are 2 bridges in the rotating part of the switch. 1 connects the yellow/red to the blue for taillight, only in lowbeam and highbeam positions. The other connects the red to the low(green) and high(yellow) respectively. Basically, all that matters though, is that you connect the yellow/red and red wires to the center terminals of the toggle switch and then hook up all the other colors, with the blue connected to both ends of the switch as shown. Correct, I didn't know you were going to tear things that far apart, but might as well use what's already there. Wrong, the Banshee kill switch is closed in the off position and open in the run position. The key switch is opposite. The red/black wire must be connected to the black wire for it to run.

Glad to be able to help. Just so things are clear, the left 3 terminals of the switch are totally independent, inside the switch, from the right 3 terminals. So, the power feed gets connected to both center terminals as shown in the diagram.

To do it right, you need a double pole, double throw toggle switch with a center off position. It will have 6 terminals and may say "on-off-on" on the package. You do NOT want one with a spring return to center. That would be labeled "(on)-off(on)". Here is how you wire the 6 terminals. Note that the power feed and the high beam wires are both yellow. Make sure you get that right. On the switch side of the OEM connector, the power feed is yellow/red. On the '02-'06 bikes, the power feed is all yellow/red. If you don't care about high and low beams, you just need a simple 2 terminal toggle switch. Wire the yellow power feed to 1 terminal and your beam of choice and the blue taillight wire to the other terminal.