Starwriter

So, you pressure tested the motor after you assembled it, right?

The best porting in the world is not going to do any good if you don't have all the supporting components to make it work, make it work reliably, and get the power to the ground. Filters, carbs, reeds, pistons, head, crank, pipes, clutch, trans, suspension, tires...

Yes

Just an FYI, you have to remove the clutch cover to remove that brass vent piece. Support the cover on a piece of pipe and pound it out. Apparently some people have busted a chunk out of the cover by just pounding on it, unsupported.

Yep, same cable fits stock carbs with TORS delete and 28 PWK carbs. You just need to make sure you get it for thumb throttle if you're going to keep the thumb throttle. The cable for a twist throttle is different.

Block off the one below the water pump with this. You don't need that vent. Some aftermarket covers don't even have a hole there. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-Clutch-Cover-Vent-Block-off-Plate-/110747369144?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c90ebeb8&vxp=mtr

Just a guess, but I would imagine it's some kinda state law thing.

OK, thanks for clarifying that. Always wondered about that on stock cranks.

So on stock cranks where the crank pin is part of the inner web, you bore a hole in the inner web for a replacement pin?

Yes, definitely get the Mull gear. It's a really nice piece and no more worries. The way that gear is broke, I would almost bet you broke it putting the clutch cover on last time and not having the gears lined up. I like to put covers on without the water pump cover, so you can spin the impeller and get the gears to mesh as you push the clutch cover on.

Uh, no, Maine, New Hampshire got a brake light quite a few years before the rest of the states. So, the MNH model.

Most crank failures are because the rod big end bearing goes bad. Does it trash the crank pin when this happens? If so, what are the "this crank is not rebuildable", signs that are obvious without even pressing it apart?

Got any friends in Phoenix? http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/bar/3434146119.html

Personally, I wouldn't run a chain driven T case on anything with tires bigger than 35. I would definitely put in a 205. They're around all over the place for cheap. So, go with a NP465, 205 T case, GM corporate 14 bolt, and chromoly front axle shafts. It's unfortunate that GM never used a high pinion Dana 60. If you wanna really kick it up a notch, go with a Ford high pinion Dana 60 and a left side drop T case.

Problem solved.

Tell you what, let me tempt you a little more. If the chrome is nice on your arms and the ball joints are tight, I'll throw in a 40mm roundhouse carrier.

Wanna trade straight across for a 2-5 overide trans cut by either Redline or DMR? Not sure which.

1. The guy you bought it from is a dumb ass. 2. A blaster piston IS the correct pin height for a long rod. That piston is a big bore blaster piston size. 3. If you really have a 5 mill problem, you can't fix it with a 2 mill spacer plate. 4. It's Trinity. It's fucked.

Rotary valve 2 strokes are so cool. The Suzuki RP68 road racer. 3 cylinder 50cc rotary valve 2 stroke 19 hp @ 20,000 rpm 14 speed gear box.

Call Trinity and ask them. Maybe it uses a copper head gasket.

Oh yeah, gotta have an impact driver for those dumb ass phillips clutch and stator cover bolts.

oops, 30mm (1 1/8") hex tool for the lower steering stem bearing. Also need a 32mm (1 1/4") socket for the inner clutch hub nut.

Leakdown tester, compression tester, torque wrench, grinder for cutting worthless tabs off the frame, homemade 32mm (1 1/4")hex tool for removing lower steering stem bearing, low pressure tire gauge, Mothers aluminum polish.

Apparently that's a Trinity big bore set up that uses bigger Blaster style pistons specially made by Wiseco for Trinity. So, the Blaster style piston has the correct pin height for a long rod, but uses a different dome angle than Banshee pistons. Did you get a head or domes with it? If so, bolt it on and check the squish. If not, you're gonna have to get domes cut. I could be totally out in left field with this, but that's what it seems like to me.

Uh, you better take a closer look at what you have. A 4 mil is supposed to end up with the piston 2 millimeters(.078") (a little short of "about" an 1/8")out the top of the cylinder. If you have long rods, and do NOT have long rod pistons, you would have the pistons 2 mil + 5 mil =7 mil (.275") (over 1/4") out the top of the cylinder