Starwriter

Do you want me to call them on the phone and have them send you an email? LOL

Just a guess, but how about... http://msshocks.com/

You don't get it. Your plug backed out from detonation caused by an air leak elsewhere. But you don't know that because you refused to do a leakdown test after you put the top end together.

Removing the stock coil wires without breaking the plastic retainer is almost impossible. There isn't any place that I know of to buy new retainers. Here is the best possible chance you have. Clamp both wires in the vice. Grab the coil and pull carefully while you have someone else gently pry the locking tabs. If they pry too much, they will break off. Once you have the coil wires out, snip off the wires on each side of the retainer. The insulation is in 2 layers. Pull out the copper, then the inner insulation, then carefully pry out the outer insulation. Good luck. Due to heat and age, the retainer is super brittle.

A leakdown test? Oh yeah, you think a leakdown test is overrated.

Red with black stripe gets connected to solid black permanently. You are correct about the tether.

Welcome to BHQ. You are now the president of the 1st post fail club. The red/black wire needs to be grounded for the bike to run. The black/white wire is the kill wire and gets connected to the black ground wire to KILL the motor.

http://www.lsracing.com/img/Guide_21.pdf

I think he's probably looking for one of these.

This one that hasn't been active since 2010? If so, here's a phone number from 2009. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=123212&hl=

On a stock trans, all the gears except 1st gear, have 3 dogs going into 6 dogs. The 1st step to ANY trans mod is to mill out 3 of the 6 dogs on those gears. So, if you have a bunch of gears with 6 dogs, you have a stock trans.

Wire could have broke off the contact block inside of the switch where they're soldered on or the contact block could have jumped out of place inside the switch. Like Matt mentioned, get out your multimeter and check the switch for continuity.

I did a quick google search and came up with this company. Looks like they have their act together. Talk to them and let us know how it goes. http://www.laseralliance.com/

It's just a plastic spacer to locate the master cylinder where Yamaha wants you to put it. You don't need it. Throw it away.

$50 shipped

I think you need to check your connector a little closer. All Banshee's only use 2 wires in the harness. Some years of key switches have 2 wires. Some have 4 wires with only 2 of them used. So, the connector is what's important, not necessarily the number of wires.

I've never put slides in backwards, but I think from posts here, people say it runs slobbery rich when you do. If yours runs good with them in backwards, I would very highly suspect big air leaks. Probably cracked boots from that damn boost bottle. Better do a leakdown test.

Here you are. This is the one you want. Their username is alloyboltz. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Banshee-Polished-Stainless-Steel-ATV-Bolt-Kit-/300352177883?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45ee6286db&vxp=mtr

If you put oil in it, you just destroyed all of the rubber components in the brake system.

You had what is commonly called a runaway. The lean condition caused by running it out of fuel heated up the spark plug and it acted like a glow plug, igniting the fuel much earlier on the compression stroke. Effectively doing the same thing as advancing the timing a whole bunch. It's happened to me on an alcohol motor. scary as shit. I yanked off the plug wires just like you. Still ran. One guy that had it happen on a single cylinder motor, yanked the carb out of the intake. Another guy said he was tempted to flip the bike upside down and dump the fuel out of it. LOL Usually you can anchor the brakes and put it in the gear and drop the clutch to kill it.

For a real quick basic test, fire up the motor from cold and blip the throttle a few times. After running for a minute or 2, put your hand on the radiator and if the pump is working, you should start feeling heat. If the outside of the cylinder head feels hot and the radiator is cold, you definitely have a water pump problem. Before I got my Mull billet water pump gear, I did this test every time I unloaded the bike off the trailer at the dunes.

You know there's washers that go inside those swingarm caps, right? Seems like every bike I buy is missing those washers.

I'll take a shot at this. Someone decided they didn't want the key switch so they removed it and connected the red/black wire to ground.(proper) Then some moron decided he wanted a key switch, so he put one back on and connected into the black/white and black wires(the kill switch circuit). Possibly even into the TORS connector. In order for the bike to run, the red/black wire must be grounded and the black/white wire not grounded. So, the key switch is closed in the run position and the kill switch is open in the run position. So, in your case, turning the key to on, closes the contacts, connects black/white wire to ground and kills the motor.

Originally it looked like this.