Starwriter

If it's broke outside of where most people race cut them, just cut'em! It's your bike. Cut'em any way you want. If a prospective buyer doesn't like it, fuck'em. Besides, down the road, you may decide you want a different color anyway. Personally, I've started collecting different colors of plastics. I can swap them out just like putting on a clean pair of socks.

Where did you get the stator? Please don't tell me it's a Ricky stator. Hint: Maybe the replacement stator is bad.

I see pretty girls everywhere I go.

No, that's the TORS box. Throw it in the trash. The voltage regulator is a 1 wire metal box to regulate the voltage to the lights. It has nothing to do with the engine running.

Unplug your CDI and do your resistance checks of the harness and components from there. Red/blk to blk= continuity blk/wht to blk= no continuity Check stator and pickup resistance and insure no continuity to blk Orng to blk= primary coil resistance Check your ground connections. I'll bet it's something simple.

A boost bottle on a Banshee is like a Fart can on a Honda. A boost bottle on a Banshee is like a "cold" air intake on a Honda with a big cone filter mounted right behind the radiator. A boost bottle on a Banshee is like a big gay wing on a Honda. A boost bottle on a Banshee is like unsilenced exhaust on a Vespa. Do they really sell boost bottles in 5 different colors on QVC?

Welcome to BHQ. First thing you should do is a leakdown test. While the carbs are off, clean them and see what size jets are in them. Next, check every single nut and bolt on the bike to make sure they're tight. There's lots more things to check to be sure it's safe to ride, but that will get you started.

And unplug remaining wires from the harness.

Correct. You will still need a new throttle cable though. To eliminate the TORS switch from the thumb throttle, remove the switch, chop off the wires, slide off the rubber grommet, fill the hole in the grommet with black silicone sealer, and put the grommet back in the thumb throttle.

Great prices. Do you want to make me a deal on the blank clutch cover insert from the stock cover and the blank water pump cover from the Mattoon cover?

I need a set of chrome stingers for Cascade CSFX silencers with CPI pipes. I called Cascade and new price is $150. This is for a beater budget build so if anyone has a set for, say, $80 shipped, I would be interested.

I have one that's looser than a $20 a night hooker on Las Vegas blvd. $25 shipped.

OK, just thought maybe you had a plan for it. Hidden kill switch?

I've been curious for a while. What are you gonna mount to the TORS mounting tab?

Do you mean 2" OD? If so, a 28 pwk is 1 15/16". Damn close to 2". A 33 or 35 pwk is 2 5/16".

Let me put this as politely as possible. You have no idea what you have. You don't know if the cylinders are decked on the top or bottom, or even at all. You don't know for sure that you have a 4 mill crank. The piston numbers that you posted in the other thread don't mean anything at all. You don't know what your piston to wall clearance is. You don't know what the squish clearance is. You shouldn't be replacing just 1 piston. Someone (a builder) needs to measure everything and advise you on the best way to put the motor back together for the type of riding you plan on doing. It's impossible for anyone more than 2 feet away from your motor to give you advice without knowing how the motor was set up before. There's a lot more to motor building than just making sure the pistons are even with the top of the cylinder at TDC.(Or not, if you are building a 4 mill without a spacer plate)

Whoa dude!!!!! In the US, the definition of thong has gone from this to this

Too late now, but you should have done a leakdown test before you tore it apart. So at this point, unless you can visibly see why it leaned out, you have 3 choices. 1) Rebuild the top end and hope and pray 2) Rebuild the top end, do a leakdown test and then tear it back apart to fix what ever is leaking 3) Split the cases and reseal the whole motor and then do a leakdown test.

Just need a REALLY long extension cord.

Sounds like either crud in the bearing or somehow the inner race is mashed up against the seal. The bearing should spin freely. The gear is going to put some side load on it, but it sounds like the bearing is dragging too much. You're gonna have to do some investigative work on your own to determine why it's not spinning easily.

LOL. A few of the parts they make look and function nice.

I guess after looking closer, Finch's don't look like Modquad.

Looks like Modquad. I have a pair like this that are individual intakes. They have a nice O ring seal between the spacer and the intake. (between the 2 aluminum pieces) I'm not positive that mine are Modquad, but the look like this. http://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/900168909# Here's the kind Modquad makes with the built in crossover http://www.modquad.com/banshee-intake-manifold.html.

"shaved down" cylinders and a 4 mill crank go together like a Prius at the diesel pump. Sell your junk and buy something that runs.

What numbers are stamped into the top of the old piston?