VF3s all snap together with no screws. Supposedly with the VF2s, it's possible for the screws to back out and go through the motor. Personally, I don't see how that's possible with that plastic frame.
Looks like a Billy Bob homebrew "clean up" port. It doesn't look like they even touched the tops of the transfers. Send them to a builder and get a real port job done.
I don't even screw around trying the toothpaste Q tip thing. I just replace the needle and seat when they leak. You can buy the needle and seat from your local Yamaha dealer or buy a complete rebuild kit from FAST. The price is about the same either way.
My high school shop teacher explained it like this. If your buddy is across the street walking down the sidewalk and you want to hit him with a baseball, you have to throw the ball in front of him to hit him. Now if he's running down the sidewalk, you have to throw it farther in front of him to hit him. Same principal applies to ignition timing. Light the fuel before the piston gets to the top so that by the time it starts really making pressure, the piston is just past top dead center. That's why you have an advance curve with more advance at higher RPMs.
Yamaha set up the timing and compression very conservative so that any shit gas anywhere in the world could be dumped in it and they wouldn't be replacing a motor under warranty.
Mull Engineering is right there in Wichita. Don't know if they bore cylinders, but if they don't I'm sure they can hook you up with someone good in your area.
Just an average set of Toomey T5 pipes. They're not new, but I've seen a lot worse. They look decent when mounted on the bike. Discoloration near the cylinders. Stingers are very nice as they came from another set of pipes. The silencers are T3 silencers. Exact same as T5 except the T3 silencers are 1/2" shorter. The distance from the front end to the mounting flange hole is the same. Comes with a set of billet front hangers. No rear hangers. Last pic shows the difference between the T3 and T5 silencer. $250 shipped.
Can bring to Redline dyno day. Let's call it $225 since I won't have to ship them.
Nice clean wacked cases with a billet case saver $120 shipped including paypal fee.
Can bring to Redline Dyno day. Let's call it $100 since I won't have to ship them.
Some people take em all the way off. Some people just give em a little trim.
Here a bunch of cut fenders, but no girls.
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&tbo=d&biw=1409&bih=1007&site=imghp&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=banshee+cut+fenders&oq=banshee+cut+fenders&gs_l=img.3..0i24.9917.15719.0.16237.16.10.0.6.6.0.271.2272.0j1j9.10.0...0.0...1c.1.2.img.KLW2DnyTun8
Cool!!! Glad you got it. Now go kick ass on some Raptors. But remember, like I tell all my friends, I'll help you work on your bikes, but if you run unmixed fuel and melt down the motor, you're on your own.
I'll bet you have the slides swapped. The cutaway on the bottom of the slide should be towards the air filter. If you have them swapped, the cutaway ends up towards the motor and it runs super rich. If that's not the problem, then the motor and pipes are probably loaded up with fuel from you kicking it with no spark. Go run the shit out of it to clear it out.
For some reason, the link on the sponsor page for Richies Metal works doesn't work.
These are cool custom tie rods. Don't know anything about the quality though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carbon-fiber-tie-rod-Banshee-KFX-TRX-Polaris-M10-/221027334901?pt=Go_Karts&hash=item3376417af5
Hey man, I see you're in Wichita. Mull Engineering is in Wichita. You should hit them up for a billet water pump gear. It's a really nice piece.
http://www.mullengineering.com/sc/store.php/products/yamaha-banshee-billet-water-pump-drive-gear-impeller-drag-race-sand-trail-power-online