Starwriter

Post some pics. Unless it's a total beat to crap, POS, $1200 is a steal for it.

Yes, they're different. I don't remember the exact difference, but it is something about the shaft. Length or something.

Next Redline dyno day, I'm wanna do this. Build a junk motor with spare parts. Make cuts in the rods to weaken them. Put in 14+ degrees of advance with 18cc domes on regular gas. Sell raffle tickets with your guess of how much time from peak RPM to destruction, for $1 each. Closest guess gets 1/2 the pot. Motor builder gets the other 1/2.

After many years of not caring, all of a sudden the come on here, and say, "Oh, my bad, we fixed it, buy our new stuff" Translation. "Business is slow. We aren't selling enough stators to pay overhead. Let's go on BHQ and sell some stators." If you really, truly, want to sell stators, here is how you fix things. 1) Pay sheerider1026 a large consulting fee, including round trip air fare to your facilities, with hotel accommodations. 2) Contract with Chariot to make BILLET stator plates 3) Send 10 of your "new improved" stators with Chariot stator plates to a BHQ builder with a dyno and PAY them for comparison testing on the dyno 4) Instruct the builder that if they approve them, to give them away to BHQ members that are willing to try them 5) Offer anyone with an old RS stator a free, no questions asked, exchange for a "new improved" stator with Chariot plate 6) After about a year of less than 1% failure rate, beg Tyler for the right to be a BHQ sponsor

Bought a pair of really nice domes from him. Great communication. Super fast shipping. Awesome seller. Thanks.

Really, again? Ricky StatorMember Since 25 Apr 2011

Really? LOL You don't get around here much, do you? http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=117005

Actually, I have considered this very thing. It would need to be done to a new flywheel puller. I haven't done it for 2 reasons. The threads on a tap are relieved behind the cutting edge. That's going to be pretty much impossible to recreate. The other thing is that it's nowhere near hard enough to maintain a sharp edge.

If someone made a tap to chase/clean the flywheel puller threads, I would buy one.

More alcohol inspired advice.

Man this is a sweet Banshee. After reading the description, I knew it had to be a BHQ member. Then looked at the ebay username. Yup. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CUSTOM-DRAG-BANSHEE-THE-WODDY-/221188393481?pt=ATVs&hash=item337fdb0a09

Redline. Cam gives away Voodoo donuts.

Somewhere between 02 and 05. Doesn't make any difference though. Cases are all the same. Vin# on the frame will tell the year.

What year? I have a new Rick's Motorsports 200 watt stator for '95-'96.

Stock axles are smaller diameter a few inches inboard from the wheel hubs and then get bigger at the wheel hub shoulder. Aftermarket axles are pretty much the same diameter from the sprocket/brake hubs all the way out to the wheel hubs. Some aftermarket axles don't have threads next to the sprocket hub and require a special $60 2 piece nut.

Definitely bent. Is the paint burnt off the upper A arms at the back from somebody heating or welding on them? If so replace them. The stock upper A arms are weak and probably would not have survived that hard of a hit. The lower A arms might have survived, but you should check them. Check the A arm ball joints for looseness. Take the steel sleave from the upper A arm and shove it through the lower A arm bushings. This will show you if the lower A arm is bent so that the bushings are not all in a line.

If you have the big clunky boxes on top of the carbs, you need a complete TORS removal kit which will come with a new cable. Clymer is the manual to get. If you're going to keep the stock air box, this is the filter setup to get. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=457 You can take the spring out of the thumb throttle. It's only needed for the TORS. If you don't ride in mud, you should get pods and outerwears.

Could also be bent A arms or a twisted swinger.

Duh, what'd I tell you? Maybe you should have stuck the possibly plugged zerk in the grease gun by itself and checked to see if it flowed grease. Or swapped 1 of the working zerks into the bad hole.

That's funny!!! Take some of the mud from your favorite riding area to the powdercoater. "Can you match this color?"

There are lots of threads here about cutting fenders. Here's 1 of them. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=79882 The way I do it, is tape off the part I am going to keep, then use a cutoff wheel in an air grinder and cut just outside the tape. Then use coarse sand paper on a block to shape it up to the tape. Then finer sand paper followed by a heat gun. Ever since I stuck a utility knife all the way into my leg, I'm not allowed to use them. LOL. Use whatever cutting tool you feel comfortable with. If you're unsure, practice on some of the area that's going to be scrapped anyway.

Bump

TTT

SOLD

Here's a few. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=106819