Starwriter

Because it's from back in December.

Screw that hokey ass Yamaha design. Just get a banjo bolt switch and be done. If you're set on retrofitting an earlier bike with the OEM switch, you need the switch with mounting bracket, spring, link, clutch cover bolt hook thing, and the brake pedal. Or you have to weld a tab on your early brake pedal.

1. Take boost bottle off bike 2. Smash boost bottle with a hammer 3. Recycle boost bottle 4. Buy stock crossover pipe 5. Install stock crossover pipe 6. Drink beer 7. Bang ol lady 8. Post pics of ol lady on BHQ

All you have to do is unplug the 3 wire TORS box under the left front of the gas tank and throw it away.. After that, you can unplug and throw away the switch in the thumb throttle. Put the grommet back in the thumb throttle with a little dab of black silicone sealer.

In my opinion, put the billet pegs on. They're about 1 lb each lighter than stock.

Yes. Most aftermarket clutch covers don't even have a hole there.

I made it in the lathe. For the exhaust caps, I use stock Banshee front bumper rubber caps. They fit perfectly.

Impressive machine work, but in my opinion the design sucks. Yes, it's a massive chunk of iron, but it's bolted to the sprocket. That's like bolting rock rails to the body sheet metal. Like putting Rockwell axles in a unibody Jeep Cherokee. Like... That's all I got. Why not use longer sprocket bolts so you utilize the structural integrity of the sprocket hub? And I really don't think it needs to be 5/8" thick at the mounting point.

Billy Bob homebrew port job. Hope they didn't get carried away on the exhaust ports.

I use a Nike basketball/tire pump.

This is as old as Ford vs Chevy, Coke vs Pepsi, Gay vs straight. But I can tell you with lots of power trying to do tight, technical, up hill, trail stuff, you will crash less often with a thumb. I used to think thumb was for pussies... and I crashed a LOT.

How about the Yamaha dealer in your town? Also, now that you've FUBARed the vent fitting, pound it out from the outside. (pound it towards the inside). Back it up with a piece of pipe so you don't bust a hole in your cover. Then block it off with this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-Clutch-Cover-Vent-Block-off-Plate-/110747369144?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c90ebeb8&vxp=mtr You only need the vent at the back of the motor. That clutch cover vent is dumb.

Here's my homemade tool with what I had laying around.

Cool!! Glad it all worked out.

Nothing ever gets deleted around here. LOL.

And then when he get's junk from motorcityatv, someone can kick him in the balls and say I told you so.

Sooooo.... Are there any rivet heads missing on the inside of the flywheel? If so, the flywheels junk. Are the rivets loose? If so, the flywheels junk. Does the orphaned rivet exactly match the flywheel rivets? If so, and you don't have any missing rivets the you have to assume it was from a previous flywheel failure. Is the stator you're getting OEM Yamaha? If it's Ricky Stator, it's junk.

87 is the only year that's different. As long as you don't try swapping the the thumb lever between 87 and 88+, they will all work.

You mean the E clips on the shift fork shafts? No, you don't need to replace those.

Cool. Good luck with it. I was just cruising through Banshee stuff ending soon and saw that and remembered your wanted post.

Wait a minute. What? I just went back and looked at your pic. All the rivets are in the flywheel. Did you put the rivet back in and leave out that little tidbit of information about 10 posts ago? Or is the orphaned rivet from a previous flywheel disintegration that has been rattling around in there all this time?

If you're any where near Rialto, this looks like a nice set. (Not mine) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-Drag-T-5-Pipes-/200904494741?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec6d74e95&vxp=mtr

Whoever told you you only need the bottom half is a screwball. Don't even let them wash your bike, let alone work on it. The bearing bores are bored after the case halves are bolted together. There will always be slight variations which will lead to bearing problems down the road.

The puller is only used on Motorcycle and ATV flywheels. If you don't want to wait for one shipped to you, try your local motorcycle shops. If you can move the flywheel up and down, the crank bearings are REALLY bad. However, even if it won't move, crank bearings could be bad and all jammed up.

OK, soooooo.... If the flywheel doesn't just fall off, you may have much bigger problems. You need to figure out how the flywheel hit the pickup coil. Did the pickup coil come loose or are the crank bearings trashed? Do not try to remove the flywheel with anything other than a flywheel puller.