Starwriter

Kind of a pain in the ass if you have to pull the stator, but worst case, you pull the terminals out of the plastic holder, feed them through the hole, and then shove them back into the holder.

Here is where to get the stock type connectors in various pin counts. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/sealed.html If you want something that's more commonly available, there's the weatherpack connectors used on GM cars and trucks. http://www.weatherpack.com/ As far as splicing, I wouldn't trust my life to butt connectors. They're great for hooking up car stereos, but for stuff that could leave you stranded, I would only solder and heat shrink.

Here's the leakdown tester I made in the lathe.

Like I mentioned, it's not the best way to build a leakdown tester, but it will give you the basic idea. I'm pretty sure you can buy internal PVC pipe plugs that already have a NPT thread hole in them. Then use brass reducer bushings to get down to 1/8" NPT. Get a 0 to 15 PSI gauge like on page 5 of that thread. Grainger is a good source. Also, possibly a welding supply company. For the tire valve fitting, go to an auto parts store and buy a "tank valve". It has 1/8" NPT threads on it and is for use in a portable air tank. For the exhaust, get the rubber caps and hose clamps like on page 5. You can also use the rubber caps off your stock front bumper. To presurize it, get a small basketball/tire pump.

This isn"t the best way to build a leakdown tester, but it will give you the basic idea. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110585

Good job! Glad you got it running. Next thing you should think about doing is a leakdown test. Hard to say if the guy that did the top end rebuild got everything sealed up right.

Under the left front of the tank is the TORS box. Black box with a 3 wire connector. Unplug it. You don't need it. If still no spark, then start reading here. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650

Were you drinking or smoking weed when you pull started it 14 times?

Split the cases and send them the crank too.

For a long time, I have wondered what the point is in the Marvin Shaw coilovers. Shaws weigh considerably less than a coilover shock, so that's great for dragging, but if you get shaw coilovers for duning, you have just defeated the weight savings and bought a drag shock that is compromised to sorta work on a duner. They are purdy though.

They're not really supposed to be taken out, but you can get new ones from Yamaha. I worked on a bike that had 1 of the plugs leaking. I figured I could drill and tap the plug and stick a screw in it and pry the plug out. I started with a small drill bit. Well, even though I drilled with very light pressure, the plug started to spin. Eventually I was able to get a hole drilled into it deep enough to get a sheet metal screw started into it and then it pulled out with very little effort. Even though I had already bought a new plug from Yamaha, I decided that the hole in the case was probably too loose, so I made my own plug on the lathe with a .003" taper and drove that sucker in with some loctite.

Sounds like a pretty nice bike. Apparently it's located somewhere near Glamis. http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=278012&st=0&p=4381407entry4381407

Yep, cut 1 side of the pinch bolt tubes and the slot in the big pipe about 1/8" wider. I had to do that to a chrome Lonestar swingarm. A cutoff wheel works the best.

Throw it in the scrap pile and buy a JJ&A carrier

I'm sure your suspicion about someone trying to convert a 35 carrier to 40 is probably correct. A single row 40 bearing is narrower than a 35. They left the tube out because obviously a 40mm axle won't go through a 35mm tube.

That's like going to the doctor and telling him your stomach hurts and asking him what it costs to fix it. In your case, could be as simple as a reed block gasket or as involved as crank seals and a complete rebuild. Won't know till you do a leakdown test. If he has no idea about how to do a leakdown test, get your bike out of there.

Also, for what it's worth, you can't convert a 35mm carrier to 40mm or vice versa. The bearing spacing just doesn't jive.

I'm gonna take a guess that the carrier is set up for double row bearings(2 rows of balls in a single bearing) and somebody put in single row bearings. You need to make sure the proper bearings are in there and the spacer pipe is correct.

50w bulbs will be dimmer with the stock stator.

You can't use a stock regulator for LED lights. If you want to run LED lights, you need to do a DC conversion. Search and read

03slowshee has one that he's about to smash with a hammer. You might be able to get it before it's flattened.

Yes

Yes.

It's normal for it to rub the cover. It should turn when you kick the engine over. You should not be able to turn the impeller with your fingers. If you can turn the impeller with your fingers, the plastic gear is chewed up. Buy a billet gear from Mull.

Simple. Replace rear master cylinder brake line banjo bolt with this.