Starwriter

You're missing the point. 2 of the wires from the key switch to the connector don't do anything and aren't connected to anything. After you remove the key switch from the bike, you will only see 2 wires in the harness. red/black and black. Connect them together and ride.

20 mm long works good, unless you have an aluminum bumper with thick mounting ears, then go with 25 or 30

Wow! That sellers feedback is almost as bad as Minky's

Here's my prediction. You buy a frame to build it like you want it. Then you start collecting parts. A arms, spindles, swingarm, axle, etc. of coarse you didn't get bolts so you throw it together with 3/8" allthread and nuts. You're so excited when you find the wheels and tires you need to be a hardcore trail rider. You pay too much for them, but you need them. WooHoo it's finally a roller!! You buy cases, cylinders, head, pipes. Cool!!!! It's finally starting to look like a Banshee. Fast forward 2 years later. It's 60% complete. It still needs key components like, wire harness, electronics, crank, pistons, brakes, etc. You have spent well over $3000. Actually more like $4000, but you don't count shipping costs. The only riding you have done is coasting out your driveway and down the street. Your girl gets knocked up and you sell the whole lot for $850.

OK, suit yourself. If you do a ground up build, you still have to start with something, and face it, your market area sucks for clean, cheap, bikes to start building on. That one I posted already has $2,000 worth of A arms, swingarm, axle and pipes. The fact that it's a '97 means nothing. I've seen '05s that were thrashed.

Buy this one and dump $1200 into the motor and you'll have a damn nice bike and be right on budget. http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/for/3733923089.html

According to this link, I come up with a test RPM for a Banshee at 3703 RPMs. 20" away from the exhaust tip at a 45 degree angle. Part of what makes the Cascade silencers pass is that they point the exhaust down at the ground, instead of right at the meter. http://www.atvaction.net/ME2/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=&type=news&mod=News&mid=9A02E3B96F2A415ABC72CB5F516B4C10&tier=3&nid=651F2AE7EB414920996F3BC30878F55B Here is another link worth looking at. http://www.off-road.com/atv/oregon-dune-survival-guide-sound-restriction-11122.html

Sorry, I'm only gonna make 1 and Tricked asked 1st. LOL.

I doubt that you can buy them new. Check with a site sponsor for good used stuff.

The gasket would tighten it up a bit. However, it's common for the spring washer to wear a groove in the backing plate. That's why in that link I posted, he flipped the stock backing plate over. If yours is already countersunk for the bolts, that's not an option. I would imagine that the spring washer wears some too. If I were you, I would try to tighten it up somehow. Either with newer parts(Gasket, backing plate, washer) or by sanding down the bolt bosses on the basket with sandpaper on glass, drill press table, or granite.

Trust me, voice of experience here. This can turn out very badly. Unreported stolen, sold on payments and money still owed, or the best one, drug addict son sold dads bike without dads permission.

All of a sudden idling high is a symptom of running out of gas. Have you looked in the tank recently? Could also be one of the carb manifolds decided to crack from old age. Visually inspect them near where the rubber bosses are for the crossover tube. If unsure, maybe do a leakdown test again just to be safe. I assume it still has the TORS boxes on top of the carbs. When you mention turning the right idle screw and it acts like it's stripped, are you talking about the big black plastic screw on the TORS top? If so, you need to fix that or do a TORS removal kit. Best to get the TORS removal kit. If you can't sync the carbs, that's BAD. As far as the slides, here is the carb sync tool every Banshee owner should own. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-Dellorto-Mikuni-SU-EMPI-Carb-Carburetor-Sync-Synchronizer-Synchrometer-NEW-/121089898051?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c31853643&vxp=mtr You mention that you swapped the plugs and the miss followed. You have a fowled plug.

Uh, I hate to disagree with Coupe, but the conical washer goes between the gear and the backing plate with the concave side towards the backing plate. There is even a recess in the gear for it to sit in. Check out the pics about halfway down this page. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=129761

The Cascade silencers work very well. They are expensive though. About $325 with chrome stinger tubes. The Toomey hush kit works and is cheap, but it looks dorky. Here's a pick of one of my old bikes with Cascade silencers with the old style end caps. The new style end caps look better.

Parting out a untitled bone stock shee, you'll probably be lucky to get $1300. If you're 100% sure it's not stolen, put it on craigslist for $1800 and hope to find a sucker.

Buy a titled frame and put it together.

I'll bet you swapped the slides. If they're in the wrong sides, the slide cutaway ends up toward the motor. The cutaway should be towards the air filter. You did a leakdown test after assembly, right?

You're gonna do a new top end on THAT without splitting the cases? When it blows itself to bits, we wanna see pics of the carnage.

If the transfer ports are already raised a lot, porting them for a 4 mil is gonna be kinda iffy. Best to send the cylinders to a site sponsor and let them check the port timings and give you advice on how they'll work ported for a 4 mil. Then they can set you up with a crank, pistons, domes, seals, gaskets, etc.

Sure. What size carbs you want it for?

I'll be down at my shop later this evening. I'll PM you pics and dimensions of the Lonestar rear studs that I have.

If you're talking about rear wheel hubs, they're threaded into the hub with loctite. Grind down the stripped threads so it doesn't damage the hub when you back it out. Heat the hub slightly and back it out. They're just 3/8" stainless button head allen bolts. I have some if you can't find them local to you. If you're talking about front wheel hubs, I would imagine they're the same, but don't know for sure.

About the switches, for the bike to run, the key switch needs to be closed and the kill switch needs to be open.

Sounds like the flywheel came loose. If so and the taper and keyway are OK, lap the flywheel and put it back on. There's a youtube video that shows how to do it.

The clutch is on the right side. Do you mean clutch lever side?