Starwriter

Otherwise known as a steering wheel puller or harmonic balancer puller.

There are lots of mods you can do now or do later down the road when you have extra money to spend. The main thing is to build a good strong foundation now. Here are the absolute must do items. Tru and weld crank New seals and gaskets Make sure ports are chamfered Do a leakdown test Check kicker idler bushing for wear. FAST sells a better bushing than stock Make sure carbs are clean, floats adjusted, and jetting is in the ballpark for your mods After you get it running and warmed up, do a compression test to insure you are safe for pump gas and to have a baseline number. Here are some mods that are strongly advised. TM Designworks casesaver Billet water pump impeller Remove TORS box with 3 wires under the left front of the tank and smash it with a hammer. Advance timing 4 degrees. Free with modding your stock plate or buy a billet adjustable timing plate. Here is the link for how to mod your plate. bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=137560 Also, check ball joints, tie rod ends, and check every nut and bolt on the bike to make sure they're tight. There have been many people tossed over the bars because a ball joint popped apart or a nut came loose.

Josh Z is going to be the closest to you with lots of parts. PM him. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showuser=36998 If no luck there, NYUK or bansheeboie

Make sure you do the correct side (outside) of each carb.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=137560

You are being way too nice. I certainly wouldn't trust my life to someone that can't even get the shock mount in the right position. The fact that you had to grind the bolt head to get it to fit through between the tubes, shows right there that they haven't put a lot of thought into their design. This isn't a simple, "oops, we made a mistake, sorry". The fact that Eastcoast admits that this swingarm raises it up "a bit", shows that no one is willing to take responsibility. Jam that thing up their ass.

Just for shits and giggles, measure from the top of the cylinder to the bottom of the ports and see if you get 54mm. It sure seams odd that anyone would make a cylinder with that big of a bore and stock stroke.

Payment sent. Thanks.

I'll take the shocks. PM sent.

That's a band aid fix for an improperly designed swingarm. I wonder what that does to the suspension geometry. I would tell them to fuck off, and get your money back + your paint expenses.

Here's your choices. 1. Buy the 24 pack of spark plugs and change the plugs when it runs crappy again. 2. Quit putting around your yard and learn how to jet your bike. 3. Sell it and buy a Chevy Volt.

Definitely not a no link swinger. Like I mentioned in my correction post, if it were, it would be sitting too low. Tie a string around the axle. Stretch it out to the pivot bolt. Adjust it at the axle with tape, sticks, whatever, so that it's centered with the big roundhouse tube. Measure from the string upward to the swinger link bolt hole. If it's made right, it should be 1 1/2". I bet yours is a LOT more than that. If so, bitch at the people that made it.

About $4500 will build you a pretty nice bike, AFTER you already HAVE a nice, complete stock bike. Your big problem is that most of the bikes in Florida are whipped out mostly stockers, with no plastics, no air filters, bald knobbies, lengthened stock swinger, LT80 front shocks, and out of frame pipes, for $3,000. That's why that orange bike is such a damn good deal.

I think it's just made stupid. Still hard to tell from that pic. If you draw an imaginary line through the swingarm pivot and the axle, the center of the link attachment bolt on the swinger should be about 1 1/2" above your imaginary line. Yours looks like the bolt is a BUNCH higher that the imaginary line.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=98094

oops! Forget about what I just typed. If that were the case, the bike would be lower, not higher.

No, it's not supposed to be that jacked up. It kind of looks like you're running a link shock setup on a no link swingarm. Hard to tell from that far away on an arched swinger. On a straight square tube swinger, the link attachment point is above the tube. On the no link swinger, the shock attachment point is near the bottom edge of the tube.

I'm pretty sure the "black stuff" on the slides is probably teflon.

http://www.crjperformance.com/ It's not listed on their website. They probably quit making it due to all the battery problems.

You just need the angled frame tube that has the upper rear A arm mount on it. Get someone with a junk frame to sawzall out that tube, leaving extra parts of the other frame tubes, and then you can just grind away the junk and weld it in. If your J arm frame is titled, and you have the ability to MIG or TIG weld, I would do the conversion without any hesitation. Just make sure you have your upper A arms before you start welding, so you can get the spacing right. The front J arm mount is already in the correct position for A arms. The rear J arm mount needs to be ground off.

I have a lathe and I am capable of making all the required spacers, but even if it were mine, I would scrap it and buy a jj&a carrier.

I've done 3 long distance bike buys and they all went perfect. You must be doing something wrong. You claim to be willing to spend $4500 for a complete package. Put your money where your keyboard is and buy this one and start horse trading to make it a trail bike. There is no way you can do this high end of a build for this price, even without all the bling. http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/for/3683837757.html He has several other bikes. Maybe you can work a deal to get works shocks and knobbies instead of sand tires. http://miami.craigslist.org/search/?areaID=20&subAreaID=&query=bluedevil&catAbb=sss

You're going to split the cases, right? You aren't putting in the same size pistons without having the bores checked are you?

Unplug the 3 wire TORS box under the left front of the tank. That completely disables the TORS system. Start with a compression test and a leakdown test. If it's a 2002 or newer, make sure the green/yellow park brake switch wire is not connected to ground anywhere. With that jetting, I'm assuming your running pods at about sea level. If you're running stock airbox or are at something thousand feet elevation, you're too rich.

Ignore the colors on the key switch side of the connector. They're all jacked up. Remove the key switch with connector and connect the harness wires as previously mentioned.