Starwriter

I have an axle that I need to get rechromed. I hate how the axle gets sand blasted and isn't shiny anymore. Has anybody tried having an axle industrial hard chromed, for a more durable finish?

Soooooo, are you asking if you run 150 PSI of compression, with an unwelded crank, will it spit a rod out through the bottom of the case? The odds are somewhere between possibly and probably.

Is the thingy that the clutch cable goes into rusted up so that it doesn't pivot on the actuater arm? If so, it's flexing the end of the cable side to side every time you pull the clutch lever.

Spring goes in the round hole and then the ball. That's the detent ball that keeps the kicker from swinging out. The O ring goes in the groove to keep it from rattling.

You can measure spring pressure with a drill press. Put a 4 stroke valve in the drill press chuck. Car, truck, Raptor, whatever. Set your bathroom scale on the drill press table. Use the drill press feed handle to compress the spring and a pair of calipers, dividers, ruler, whatever to measure height. Then read the pounds on the scale.

Even if the crank was brand new, 5 minutes before the piston blew up, you still have to split the cases to get the shrapnel out. So, when you get it apart, I would bet that you will find a very well abused, stock, unwelded crank. Even if the crank is really nice, you still need to send it to a builder to get trued and welded.

Find a bike that has at least twice as much worth of aftermarket goodies as the selling price of the whole bike. Then, essentially the bike is free. Even if it needs a complete motor build, you're still ahead. I've done it 3 times. All with titles. One of the times, I sent my fiance to go buy it. I gave her the cash and the ratchet straps. I told her if it looks clean, the chromes not rusty, and it runs, buy it. She came back with a sweet alcohol drag bike for $2200.

Depends on where you ride. I only ride in the sand and that's one of the 1st things I take off on any bike I get. If you ride trails and bounce over rocks, you need one.

Glad to help. However, you really need to buy a Clymer manual. Although there are places to pirate it online, it's right up there with a leakdown tester, compression tester, flywheel puller, and carb sync tool as far as value.

Find your multimeter and go here. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650 Other than checking the wires near the right exhaust stinger to make sure they're not melted and shorted, that's all we can tell you with the info provided.

Why don't you try one of these places? http://www.yamaha-motor.com/corporate/dealers/locator.aspx?ls=corporate#ATVs|Roseville,%20MI||

and 24

Here you are. http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ramseywaite/showmodel.asp?Type=18&make=yamahaatv&a=208&b=13&Action=O If you have 10, 22, and 23 out, you're all set. Buy new parts and put it back together. Be sure to line up one of the arrows on the pressure plate with the dot on the inner hub. Don't break off the pressure plate bolts.

I bought a pair of Works shocks from him. Great seller. They were exactly as described. He packed them very well, shipped right away and sent me the tracking number. Thanks for a smooth transaction.

Here's a pic of Newoldschools's bike. Looks good, man. Get rid of the Trinity stickers and wheel spacers though.

PM sent. Email me the pics and I'll post them.

I'm curious. Where did you get the crank you're putting in? Obviously you didn't buy a new crank. So, is it a well used, already out of tru crank?

Welcome to BHQ. Congrats on the new find. It sounds pretty nice. It could have quite a bit of oil in it and not show on the dipstick. Pull the drain plug and see what comes out. Fill it with oil and ride it. If it has problems, you're going to have to take it apart. If there's no damage, no need to take it apart. The most common leak point is the shift shaft seal. Very easy to change. The 2nd most common leak is the seal behind the front sprocket. As far as the idle problem, take the carbs apart, clean the jets and let us know what other mods it has and what jets are in it. Post close up pics of the engine.

A friend of mine had a jet boat. He told his wife to go get the truck and trailer and back it down the ramp. She said, no, so he said, fine, I'll go get the trailer. He told her very specifically how to carefully drive the boat onto the trailer. She launched the boat diagonally across the trailer and landed it in the mud beside the ramp. She still had the throttle wide open and the jet was shooting mud clear across the trailer to the other side of the ramp. He sold the boat after that.

Jesus tapdancing Christ! It only costs $75 to have a site sponsor tru and weld the crank. It costs me about $100 for a 1 day ride at the coast. If you can't afford $75, you need to sell it and find a cheaper hobby, like hacky sack.

Logic would tell you that it's made for a 4mil crank. And it came with a stock stroke crank? I'll bet that ran real "special" before it blew. Sounds like it's time to send it to Redline to find out exactly how it's set up.

If you're not going to tru and weld the crank, then there's no need to do a leakdown test. It's just going to blow up anyway.

Take one of your stock pilot jets with you. Then the idiot behind the counter can't fuck up.