Starwriter

I would also find it strange that both cylinders would be exactly 60 PSI. Typically, a tired motor will be something like 100 on one side and 90 or something on the other. Like I mentioned, go to Sears, buy a compression gauge and check it yourself. This is not the only time you will have a need for a compression gauge.

Good job. Free is always good. Unless it comes with the payback of helping him next time he moves.

Need to measure a piston? Grab the digital calipers. Need to measure a metric bolt for diameter and length? Grab the digital calipers. Need to convert 22mm to inches? Grab the digital calipers. Want to know the difference in size between part A and part B? Grab the digital calipers. Want to measure transfer port heights? Grab the digital calipers. Want to measure shim thicknesses? Grab the digital calipers.

Digital calipers? If so, why are you measuring it in fractional inches and doing math to convert it to mm?

Blaster hubs are 4/100

Harbor Freight has digital calipers for $20.

4/110 is a common Honda pattern. There are definitely aftermarket hubs that will fit Banshee axle with that pattern. Don't know about anything OEM. Here is a great wheel bolt pattern chart. http://www.mud-throwers.com/atv_wheel_chart

If the $100 Works ressi shocks pictured are about 14 1/2" center to center, I'll take them. PM sent.

Check out this thread. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=156864

They're nikasil plated cylinders. You can't bore them. Have to have them replated if the bore is bad.

How much do you trust your "mechanic"? If it truely only has 60PSI of compression, it should be almost impossible to get it running by kick starting it. Tell your "mechanic" you need to pick up the bike and think about it. Go to Sears, buy your own compression gauge and check it yourself.

OK, I checked it out. Other than slight cosmetic differences, the only difference between early and late hubs is the counterbored bolt holes for clearance for the shoulder bolts. It should be easy to counterbore the bolt holes in the early hubs to accept the late shoulder bolts. It would be best to do it in a drill press. In the pics below, the early parts are always on the right side of the pic. Ideally, you need a letter size X drill bit(.397"). If you can't find one, a 13/32" bit(.406") should be OK. The shoulder on the bolts is .010" smaller than the counterbored hole in the hubs, so I really don't think the counterbored hole has anything to do with the function of the bolts. Counterbore the holes 3/16" deep. It really only needs about 1/8", Yamaha did it 3/16" and you want to make sure the shoulder doesn't bottom out in the hole. Just don't drill too deep as you start losing threads. When you get the late style bolts and rotors in your hand, you will see what I am talking about. If you slightly grind a flat on the cutting edge of the drill bit, it won't dive in and spin the hub around on the drill press table. The last pic shows what I mean. This is for drilling soft metals, especially in cases where you are drilling all the way through.

On the thumb throttle, chop the wires, slide the grommet off the wires, put the grommet in the thumb throttle and put black silicone in the hole in the grommet. Or, if you're really into bling, Cascade Innovations makes a really nice billet plug for that spot. I have their billet plug for the clutch cover, but don't have the billet thumb throttle plug yet.

I'll get the rotor off one of my early hubs and see what the difference is. Maybe it just a simple matter of slightly drilling the bolt holes in the hubs. You're still gonna need late style rotors and bolts.

It's probably loctited. Heat it before you try to remove it. If all else fails, try drilling it with a left hand drill bit in a reversible drill.

Lube the cable and see if it gets better. It's possible that someone put 6 stiffer aftermarket springs in it. Most people run 3 stock springs and 3 aftermarket springs.

The rotors and bolts are definitely different. The hubs are probably different. On the newer style rotors, the bolts are countersunk into the rotor. The bolts have a very low profile head and they have a shoulder that is bigger than the threads, that goes into larger bored holes in the hub. I don't have any early hubs that have the rotors off from them, but I would imagine that the early hubs don't have the larger bored holes before you get into the threads. BTW, Yamaha lists different part numbers for rotors, bolts, and hubs. (early vs. late brakes)

That's a good price. Many chrome shops won't chrome used pipes because they're afraid of getting gunk in their chrome tanks.

If it really is 2.25 stamped in the top, that could mean 2.25mm oversize which would be 66.25. 66.00 is considered the last safe bore. After that, the cylinder liner gets pretty thin and can break off at the bottom. Regardless of whether you are at 66.00 or 66.25, those cylinders are at the end of their life. Don't spend a bunch of money on them.

Really? WOW! You know that's about $1000? Why not just buy another used, running, Banshee and have a bunch of parts left over.

OK, Homestead, if you don't buy this one, you're not allowed to bitch on here anymore about not being able to find a bike. http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/mcy/3773464759.html

PM sent

Yes, it's a +4. Stock is about 18 1/2" center to center.

Also, if you act fast, you can get in on the BHQ group buy. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=165626

Even though we have the best Banshee site on the planet, the search function here sucks donkey dick. Go to Google, type in your search words and then type in site:bansheehq.com I did it for you and the very 1st result was http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=157853 BTW, they're also a BHQ sponsor.