Starwriter

No. Now get your butt out there and pull the exhaust.

Oh, you want a bad ass shee? That's gonna be about $4500. It'll take $2500 just to make a soso running shee. Still much cheaper to buy someone else's money pit, even if it's not set up the way you want.

So, pull the right pipe and I bet the problem will be obvious. Do a leakdown test BEFORE you take the top end apart.

I don't think the YFZ rear caliper fits. Properly working Banshee calipers are actually pretty good. It's just that the YFZ fronts are better. If you want, you can put the right front Banshee caliper on the rear. It doesn't work any different. It just looks a little cooler. You have to use the rear brake mounting plate. If you need a rear brake mounting plate, you can get it new from East Coast ATV. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=banshee+rear+caliper+bracket&_in_kw=1&_ex_kw=&_sacat=0&_okw=&_oexkw=&_adv=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_ftrt=901&_ftrv=1&_sabdlo=&_sabdhi=&_samilow=&_samihi=&_sadis=200&_fpos=&_fsct=&LH_SALE_CURRENCY=0&_sop=1&_dmd=1&_ipg=100 The 1 down side is that the bleeder screw doesn't end up at the top, so to bleed the brakes, you have to take the caliper off, stick something between the pads and bleed with the bleeder at the top. As far as your aftermarket rear caliper, post a pic. Some are junk.

Cool!! Glad you got it worked out. Happy to help.

The tin swiss cheese things need to be opened up a bit to clear the YFZ calipers or just take them off and throw them in the scrap pile. Personally, I take them all off as soon as I buy a Banshee, if it still has them.

Did you dump unmixed gas in it? I tell all my friends, when they get a Banshee, "I'll help you work on your bike, but if you run unmixed gas and melt it down, you're on your own". Easiest way to inspect is pull plugs and look at them. Then pull the exhaust and look up the exhaust port to see if the pistons look scuffed.

About $2500

WOW! You've just pissed off a bunch of people. Good luck with that motor build.

What? Miscommunication here. Continuity=connected=NOT open circuit=closed circuit=in this case shorted to ground. The red/black wire MUST be "shorted" to black(ground) for it to run.

I assume you are talking about the red/black to black. You need to get those connected together at the key switch connector.

Unplug CDI. At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run.

Spindles, hubs, rotors, and rotor bolts are all different from early to late style calipers. Check out this thread. If there is no aftermarket source for rebuild kits for the early calipers, try buying the OEM parts from Yamaha. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=166533&hl=

Well, it turns out both of you guys are right. I talked to my chrome guy today. Hard chrome will be 2 or 3 times more expensive than regular chrome and it will be dull. Then it can be ground and polished to be almost as shiny as regular chrome. So for the cost, you can just have regular chrome done more often.

If you're that close to Cascade, why don't you just take them to Redline? That's a no brainer.

Also with a hit that hard, I bet the steering stop got bent forward and smooshed on the edge. If so, bend it back, weld in a gusset, and build up the smooshed edge with the welder.

You need a new "tie rod end". They are left hand thread and right hand thread. Make sure you get the correct one, or just buy 1 of each to be sure. To get it out of the steering arm, remove the castle nut and whack the steering arm on the SIDE. that sorta squishes the hole and spits out the tapered part of the tie rod end. If it doesn't pop out after a few whacks, hit it on the end of the threads. It's junk anyway.

Man, oh, man, that 2nd bike is NICE! You couldn't even come close to building that bike for that price.

If you don't intend to reuse them, clamp the stud in the vice and twist the case half. This gives you a very good feel of how much the stud is twisting. As mentioned above, heating the case around the stud helps a bunch.

Stock front wheels are 10 X 5, so yes.

I'm no expert on overrides, but here is what I see. 1st gear has been removed. 2nd and 3rd are definitely override. There is no 6th gear, so it looks to me like 2 through 5 override with no 1st or 6th gear.

Also if you go to Google and type in metric conversion, Google has a really good converter right at the top of the page for converting length, volume, weight, speed, etc.

Ok, sooooo... If you didn't have a 4 mil before, there's more to it than just stuffing in the crank and pistons. 1st off, you're getting 795 Wiseco pistons for the long rod, right? Next, you need to have the cylinders ported for the 4 mil. Then you need domes cut for the 4 mil. Then when it's all together, do a squish test and leakdown test. Also should think about a modded trans while it's apart.

Bought a pair of chrome Works shocks from him. Absolutely flawless transaction. Great communication, excellent packing and shipped right away. And the shocks? They're gorgeous!!!!! Thanks so much.