Starwriter

Buy a good quality pair. If you ever have to take tranny shafts apart, you will be glad you did. For Banshees, you only need the type that spreads external snap rings. I have a pair of these that work really nice. Make sure you get the pin size that fits that snap ring. I have a pair of these that suck.

I'm gonna pass. They don't have brake rotor bolt holes. Still up for grabs.

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Jeez!!! All this dinkin' around for a simple castle nut? As mentioned previously, take the good nut to a bolt supply place and match it up.

I just got done diagnosing a no spark situation. On this one, the bike would run great until it got warmed up and you shut it off. Once you shut it off, it would not start. No spark. Let it cool for 10 minutes, and it would fire right up and run till you shut it off. Swapped the coil, no change. Swapped the CDI and it started right up. Swapped the original CDI back and it fired right up. Finally after swapping back and forth enough times with consistent failure with the original CDI and no failure with the replacement CDI, I am confidant that we got it.

If the suspension God says, "strange", they're outta there!! LOL! Thanks!

The shaft is 7 1/4" from the shoulder on the eye to the end of the threads. I rolled them on glass. They're not bent. I mocked one of them up without a spring, in a frame that I have. With no spacer and the shock against the bump stop, the centerline of the spindle is 5" higher than the bottom of the frame, so with 10" wheels, and allowing for some slight squish of the bump stop, you would have to almost completely flatten the tires on landing, for the frame to hit. I checked for ball joint bind on stock A arms and the suspension has to compress an additional 2" at the spindle for ball joint bind. I only ride sand, so looks like I'm good to go taking out the spacers. Thanks everyone for your help.

OK, whatever you say. I just see it going this way. "Hey dude, how was your ride last weekend?" "Oh, pretty good. I got suckered into helping Evil build a motor, in camp, Saturday" "Wow, he blew up a motor? Bummer!" "No, he showed up with the head off the bike and asked if I knew what might be wrong" "What? He took a fucked up bike to the ride?" "Yep, and he knew about it 2 weeks ago. I told him to bring it over and we'd check it out, but his ol' lady was bitching at him about not spending enough time with her" "Man, that sucks! Gotta feel sorry for the guy" "Yeah I know, but his woman is smokin' hot lookin' so I guess that's what it takes to make her happy" "OK....... I guess"

There are a couple ways to test if it's doing something or nothing. Pull the radiator cover plastic off. Make sure the radiator is full. Start the bike up from cold and rev it up a bit. After about 2 or 3 minutes, put your hand on the radiator and feel if it's getting warm. If it's cold, put your hand on the head. If the head is hot and the radiator is cold, the water pump isn't pumping. Another way that has been mentioned here is to start it up and pull 1 of the cylinder drain bolts, rev it and see if coolant shoots out 3 feet. I've never tried that though.

Let me see if I've got this straight. You're gonna take a broken bike to a ride, and expect your friends to take time out of their riding to get your bike running? You've got 2 weeks. Fix it. I've worked ALL night before a ride, working on my bike, and rode the next day with no sleep, while my friends are drinking their Dutch Bros and bitching about how tired they are.

Could also be a chewed up water pump gear or impeller.

J arm bikes have a lower street value because of the perceived weakness. I have come down nose first so hard in the sand, with a J arm bike, that I should be paralized, and I didn't bend a J arm. I've seen plenty of bent stock upper A arms, J arms, and frames. Hit a tree hard enough and somethings gonna bend. If you wanna convert it, find someone with a junk A arm frame, cut out the angled tube with the rear A arm bracket, and weld it in.

No, they won't bolt up to the early spindles. Check out this thread and also the link in this thread. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=166770&hl=

Stock is 104.

I have 2 sets of Works AT Steeler front shocks. Both are 14 1/2" eye to eye. Both are setup exactly the same. Same springs rates, same valving, everything. Both sets were bought here on BHQ as Banshee shocks. One set has a 1/2" spacer behind the rubber bump stop. The other does not. With the spacer, the shock travel is 3 1/2" til contact with the bump stop. The set without the spacer is 4" til contact with the bump stop. The piston does not bottom out without the spacer. Which is correct? Stock shocks measure about 3 1/2" of travel til contact. Looking around at pics, I see a lot of these shocks without the spacer.

What about that kink in the tube? It should be cut in half and thrown in the scrap pile.

All Banshee arms do. Don't know about any opthers.

Just because it comes up not stolen, doesn't mean you can legally own it. It could be an unreported stolen that somebody somewhere legally owns. It could be a situation where drug addict son sold dad's bike for drug money. It could be financed and a bank is a lien holder on it. If you dump $4,000 into it and some day someone says, "Hey that's my bike. I have the title to it", Bye, Bye.

Yes, there is definitely plastic in the ball joints. Yes it will melt. Some people have done it successfully by positioning them so the ball joint stud faces up and the plastic supposedly hardens back without running out onto the floor. Some people claim that the powder can be cured with heat lamps. Personally, I would never risk my life on resolidified plastic in the ball joints. Either paint them, chrome them, or buy aftermarket arms.

Cool! Glad that's all it was. I figured the clutch the clutch pull would be easier after that, since you're not smashing the springs as far.

Has to be someone who builds Banshee motors. They tru it and then weld it. Send it to a site sponsor.

If chunks of piston fell out of the pipe, they're also down in the cases, bearings, etc. You need do a complete motor teardown. At this point, it's not totally necessary to do a leakdown test, because you are going to reseal anything that could leak. However, it could possibly give you a clue as to why it melted down. Buy a clymer manual, flywheel puller, and impact driver before you start. It's also nice to have a clutch hub holder, but not totally necessary if you have an impact wrench with a 1 1/4" or 32 mm socket.

Definitely the pressure plate hitting the cover. I'm gonna guess that you didn't line up one of the pressure plate arrows with the dot on the inner clutch hub, so the pressure plate isn't seated against the fibers, and then you adjusted the pushrod for the pressure plate in that position and when you pull the clutch lever, the pressure plate moves out too far.

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