Starwriter

Yep, I'm not surprised. Here is a link to their rebuild instructions and near the bottom it shows what they actually call each bushing, spacer, etc. You have to hold their hand while they try to figure out which part you need. It would be nice if they had a parts list and you could send them an email order so hopefully they couldn't screw it up. When I ordered parts from them, they were out of shock seals for AT Steelers for over a week. You would think they would have lots of those laying around in case someone ordered a new set of shocks. http://www.worksperformance.com/pdf/instructions/sb_service.pdf

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=134426

What, you mean a cast Ricky Stator plate? Junk! Billet is the omly way to go.

Although a few people have done the swap, yes it is a hassle to mount and wire all the components for the power valves. Battery, power valve controller, power valve servo motor, and you have to use the RZ350 stator, flywheel, and CDI. Also, there are only a few brands of pipes that will clear the power valve cable hookup thing on the left cylinder. As mentioned, if gearing is all you're after, buy a RZ350 trans and go at it. You can swap the gears around between the Banshee trans and the RZ350 trans so you end up with the ratios that you want.

I hate the look of 6 pack racks with a gas can in them. Why don't you run pods and have someone custom fab you a nice aluminum tank to go where the stock airbox was? Make sure the chain and brake disk don't hit it when the suspension is compressed, throw in a small battery and an electric fuel pump to fill the stock tank when you get low and you're all set.

Mattoon http://www.ebay.com/itm/BANSHEE-CLUTCH-BASKET-BACKING-PLATE-CUSHION-KIT-DRAG-By-Mattoon-Machine-/321122003064?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac45ce878

There is a good chance that the axle splines are worn too. I bought some of the Lonestar 4/156 hubs with pinch bolts for a friends bike a while ago that had worn splines. Lonestar was blowing them out for about $100. Check with them and see if they still have them for cheap.

Yes, it will. That would be the best fix for your screwed up 87 carrier without spending a ton of money. Finch is a great guy to deal with.

Works is not great to deal with for buying parts, so be VERY clear on what you want. I ordered a bunch of parts from them and they didn't ship all the parts. Some of the missing parts, they actually charged me for. I called them up and asked them to send the parts I paid for. When it arrived, the cheap bastards put 2 forever stamps on a bubble envelope and there was $1.15 postage due on a package that was their mistake.

1st, get rid of the Ricky Stator. You mean ADA head? Proprietary domes. Some people have problems with the head leaking.

If that one I posted really has $1300 front shocks, and you buy it, I'll give you $200 for the front shocks.

Bought a Works rear shock from him. Great deal, packed very well, and shipped fast. Thanks.

I've said it before and I'll say it again. A bone stock Shee at any price is not a great deal. I pretty sure the front shocks on the one I posted are these. If so, there's well over the asking price in aftermarket goodies and it has a title. Even if it's not set up the way you want, sell parts and use the money to buy what you want. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Works-Pro-Series-Piggyback-TRS-Front-Shocks-Yamaha-Banshee-350-93-94-95-96-97-98-/380380584728?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5890731b18&vxp=mtr

I wouldn't touch either of them. I would buy this one. http://columbus.craigslist.org/mcy/3796200242.html

And if you ever have a need for 4000 watts, you can buy another one and the link kit. That's pretty cool.

So, what's the trade? Your white Lakers for my purple stockers? I'll be right over.

Yes, but with the '01 harness you won't have the brake light wiring.

Buy a damn 7/8" 14TPI nut and screw that damn bitch on there.

I call bullshit!! There is no way an axle manufacturer is going to have castle nuts custom made.

Correct, but you still need to find out why there's no connection between the red/black wire and the black wire. That's your problem.

For it to run, red/black key switch must be connected to black and the black/white kill switch wire must be open.

Put the key in it and turn it on. If the key switch has been removed, connect the red/black wire to the black wire.

Hinson baskets are made to be able to run 7 or 8 plates. It's the Hinson inner hub and pressure plate that allows you to run 8 plates. If you have the stock inner hub and pressure plate, you are fine with 7 plates. All of the common assembly mistakes have been covered here. Obviously you have made an uncommon mistake. It's not rocket science. The pressure plate clamps the disks. If it won't engage, something is holding the pressure plate away from the disks. Take it all back apart as far as you originally did and see if somethings in the wrong place. Maybe one of the big washers that goes on before and after the basket?

I don't think so. The 87 swingarm has washers welded on the outside of the ears and the carrier ears go outside the swingarm ears with 4 bolts. The later swingarms have washers welded on the inside of the ears and the carrier goes inside the ears with 2 long bolts. You might be able to jury rig it to work, but I don't think the spacing is right for a direct replacement.