Starwriter

Every day I check this thread expecting to find a pic like this. It must suck when you have to take a crap.

I did come creative detective work and came up with this. Good lookin' plastics! http://portland.craigslist.org/yam/mcy/3833311933.html

175 is too much compression for 93 octane pump gas.

I agree, but don't dump it in your car if it has an O2 sensor. (Fuel injected) Some may get away with doing it, but it's probably not good for the O2 sensor.

Take the stator cover off so you can precisely turn the flywheel.

Factory is probably 18 gauge. I would use 16 gauge. I hope you are going to solder and heat shrink your connections. Crimp connectors are fine for car stereos, but should never be used somewhere that could leave you stranded.

I'll bet you a box of Voodoo donuts that this is the same thing. http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/fasteners/nuts/slotted-nuts/_/Navigation?term=&termca=&termpx=&sortby=webrank&sortdir=descending&searchmode=productSearch&rfqXref=&rfqKeyword=&rfqId=&rfqLineId=&r=~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600072%20Nuts%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22600085%20Slotted%20Nuts%22|~%20~|attrdiameter:1110|~%20~|sattr04:^Zinc$|~

With the carrier in your hand, and no axle in it, the spacer tube should be snug in between the bearings. If it's loose, when you tighten down the nuts, it puts the bearings in a bind. I have seen a carrier before that had a previous catastrophic bearing failure and the bearing shoulder that the bearing is supposed to press against was mooshed over which made the distance between the shoulders wider than the length of the tube. If the bearings won't press in far enough to make the tube snug, you need to take the bearings out and inspect. It's also possible for the tube to be worn down on the ends from rattling around.

Pistons don't have anything to do with the stroker. There's long rod pistons and short rod(stock length) pistons.

Poke a pair of calipers down the spark plug hole and measure the stroke. If you don't own calipers, use a stick.

I don't know if people realize it, but there is no way those arms will work on a stock frame. On a stock frame, the front J arm mount is way farther forward than the front lower A arm mount. This frame is setup opposite of that.

What's MOT and PLG?

Yep, that's the kind to get. There are lots of places to get them. Make sure you remove the thin stainless sleeve on the stock swingarm where the plastic roller was.

Just as I thought. You didn't leakdown test it after you put the top end on it. If you would have, you would have known that you have a leaking head gasket before you even fired it. But we didn't find out that the problem started when you did the top end, until 9 posts into this thread.

I hope you put the temp gauge in the upper radiator hose.

There should be 2 matching connectors right there in the harness next to the big connector.

Do a leakdown test.

PM sent.

I have one that looks good, with bearings, and spacer tube. 1 bearing looks rusty. The other bearing looks fairly new. Bearings feel perfectly smooth. No seals included. How about $42 shipped, including paypal fee? Came out of a friends running blaster to do a hydro brake swap.

I googled it and found pics of Bigreds bike. Looks a lot safer than a plastic gas can. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=125437

In the pic, you are holding 2 hoses. Are they both coolant hoses? If so, you have something plumbed wrong.

Weird. Maybe something crossed up in the harness? Maybe a bad CDI? I can't imagine that a cheap aftermarket pickup coil could cause that. You didn't mention where you got the pickup. You set the pickup coil gap, right? Maybe see if you can borrow an oem stator and CDI from somebody to try.

You posted that you have the stock airbox. There are 3 tabs on the right side of the airbox to hold the wires away from the right stinger. The wire harness goes over, under, over the tabs, or something like that. This problem is more common when people run pods and don't do anything to tie up the wires.

Did the wire harness get against the right stinger and get melted/shorted?

So, do you have the red/black key switch wire grounded? If not, there's you problem. It needs to be grounded to run. The park brake wire is green/yellow, in case you got things mixed up. It needs to be NOT connected to ground. Any chance you sheared the flywheel key when shit hit the fan?