Starwriter

The work great for moving pinball games around.

Just unplug the small black box under the left front of the tank. It has a 3 wire connector. When you unplug that, it disables the whole TORS system.

A compression test is more valuable than knowing what size domes you have.

That was my point. Even well experienced riders can screw up with a twist throttle. So you take someone that's used to 20hp and put them on a shee with more than double that(depending on what's been done to it), with a twist throttle, and it's an accident waiting to happen. Get that twist off of there before he really busts himself up. Good luck on the frame. Unless you can see something visibly bent, slight bends can be hard to see since the bottom of the frame isn't symmetrical. You may have to put good suspension on it and then take measurements.

You let your son(age not mentioned), that's been used to riding a Blaster, loose on a Banshee with a twist throttle? What the hell were you thinking was going to happen? You're lucky his head didn't slam the tree and bust open like a watermelon dropped from the roof. Anyway, turn off the gas, tip the bike vertical onto the grab bar and look at the frame to see if it's bent. The frame is not supposed to be symmetrical on the bottom, but see if you can see if it's bent. Look for paint flaking off. If nothing looks bent, then look at the steering stop at the bottom of the steering stem. I'm sure it's definitely pushed forward and smooshed. That's fixable. If the plastics don't fit quite right, the upper steering stem mount hoop is bent. That's fixable. If the A arm hit the shock, the shocks probably bent. There's also a good chance the handlebars are bent.

You mean a case saver? If so, you don't want a billet one. Billet case savers are known to break the case. You want a TM Designworks plastic case saver.

You traded for a pig. I bet you end up spending about $1,000 to make it right. If you continue riding it before fixing it, add 50%.

Yamaha calls it a collar. Cheap enough to just buy it from your local dealer, or maybe there's someone that lives near you that has 1 laying around. 90387-257N4-00 COLLAR $10.95

There you go. Put spark plugs in there and put plug wires on the plugs with the wires going up under the tank out of sight. That'll get people talking. LOL

Get ahold of factory350. He's in the same boat. See if he found out what size it is. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=167697

With 19cc domes, you better be careful leaning it out. Did you do a leakdown test and compression test when you put it together? If not, you better.

Just so you know, 87-89 front hubs, rotors, rotor bolts, calipers and spindles are different from 90 and newer, so you better specify which type you need. You can't just automatically go by J arm or A arm because 90 was a J arm bike with new style calipers. Send a PM to dirtydownunder. He's in Australia and might have a line on parts down there.

Factory size on the tapered ball joint holes tapers from 11mm to 13mm.

Yes

"either a bent crank, causing the intake and transfer ports to be closed when there supposed to be open, or a clogged transfer port?" No. it's not going to be any of that. If it were me, I would do a leakdown test, just so you know if the crank seals and base gasket are OK, and then pull the reeds and inspect them. I'm betting you find broken reeds. If they look OK, then pull the pipe and inspect the piston as much as you can see on the intake and exhaust side. Or maybe it's like that one guy on here. "I found a rock wedged in my reeds. What do you think?"

You're welcome.

Go for it. This is the real Ashley.

Here you go. http://www.tacomascrew.com/results#!&ea_q=key%20stock Or if for some reason, it's metric http://www.tacomascrew.com/results#!&ea_q=metric%20key%20stock

I'll bet it's standard size key stock that you can get at many auto parts or industrial supply places.

OOP! Guess I missed the part where you're running PWKs. Sorry about that.

Well, that depends on a few things. "Shit the bed" is not exactly a technical term. Did it seize up or just quit running? Is the spark plug smashed over? Do a compression check. I don't know how you're checking compression at the reeds, but I'm sure however you're doing it, it's meaningless. Blasters are famous for 2 things. Breaking pistons and the source coil going out on the stator. If you pull the pipe and look in the exhaust port and can see the connecting rod, that's bad. Resistance test on the stator will tell you it's bad, if it's out of spec. It probably won't be completely open or shorted, just way out of spec. If so, buy a new OEM source coil and solder it in.

I run 21 x 7- 10 dual rib Sandstars on all my duners.

The carb slides are swapped. The cutaway on the bottom needs to be towards the air filter. When you have them swapped, the cutaway ends up towards the motor and it runs super rich. Also, make sure the float bowl with the BB at the bottom front is on the left carb.

Is this set for without brake rotors also?

Might see if you can work out something here. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=167613