Starwriter

No it shouldn't. The tether should be hooked to the black/white kill switch wire. (assuming it's the correct type of tether switch. Circuit closed when tether is removed.) Since the key switch has been removed, make sure the red/black wire is permanently connected to the black wire. If the red/black is not grounded, it will not run. Be sure to remove the TORS box and smash it with a hammer. It's a black plastic box under the left front of the gas tank with a 3 wire connector.

380 mains at 6000 feet should have fouled plugs within 1/2 mile from the parking lot. I'm betting it has a serious air leak and the big mains were compensating for it. Do a leakdown test before you ride it anymore.

It's probably Pipe thread. Abbreviated NPT. 1/4" NPT measures just under 9/16" OD. 3/8" NPT measures about 11/16" OD. I'm not near my pingle. I would venture a guess that the mounting plate for Banshee only comes in 1 thread size.

Here you go. You can't see it, but the single wire voltage regulator goes to the right of the CDI, bolted to those 2 captive nuts. The ground wire ring terminal goes on 1 of the regulator bolts. The wire harness to the rear goes along the right side of the air box. If you are running pods, make sure the harness doesn't get against the right exhaust stinger. Throw the overflow bottle in the trash. You don't need it.

Rotax 250 twin super kart motor bored and stroked as big as you could go. Rotary valves FTW.

They're called stupid ass swiss cheese stick guards. They don't do anything. I've scrapped lots of them.

LOL!!! Thats great! Ask him if it has a booster bottle, cause you heard that's like adding turbo power. Tell him you want to run airplane gas and octane booster. Does it have a big radiater?

That's a horrible pic, but one thing that is certain is that the carrier is 88 to 02. The 03 to 06 carrier has pipe spacers welded onto the caliper mount like this.

It's impossible to see where the damage is to the gear. Was it rubbing against the clutch cover or was is getting chewed by the crank primary gear? If it's damaged on the crank gear side, put the gear on an impeller with the snap ring and washer and slide it into the case to see what's going on.

So, do you mean the face of the waterpump gear got against the crank primary gear? Did you forget the washer that goes between the snap ring and the waterpump gear? Or any chance your crank is separating or crank bearing going bad?

Getting back to the original topic, I did put Banshee suspension in a Blaster. It was WAAAAAYYYYYY too much work. It started out like this. I want to upgrade the drum brakes to discs. I've got a whole bunch of stock banshee stuff laying around. The lower A arm mounts look pretty close. I've got a welder. It shouldn't be that difficult to just cut, move, and weld the mounts. Wrong! It was one of those things where once you're committed and have already moved some mounts, there's no turning back. It does work much better than the stock Blaster suspension, but I would never do it again. Either buy +2 +1 Blaster A arms or start from scratch and build your own.

LMAO!!!

This is one of those cases where a pic of what you have/don't have, is worth a lot more than whatever the hell you are typing about.

Take that shit off and throw it in the trash. That hook thing on the clutch perch ripped a guys nutsack open once when he went over the bars. If you want to park it, put it in 1st and shut it off.

What a retard. This looks like some of Aarons work. (Remember the widening kit guy?) http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/mcy/3865423899.html

No! You only need a Blaster brake disc hub if you're a retarded fuck that puts an '88 to '02 axle in a Banshee.

Nothing. Slide it right in.

If that's a Blaster axle, it's definitely an '03 to '06. You can tell by the place where the brake disc mounts. Measuring the overall length will tell you if it's the narrower Blaster axle. However... The splines don't look to be in very good shape on that one. The '88 to '02 Blaster axles have a collar that's a permanent part of the axle that goes against the right carrier bearing and is the seal surface. The rotor is on a floating hub that slides on over the right end of the axle, so there's no shoulder to the right of the splines like Banshee and late Blaster. Early Blasters have a fixed caliper and a floating rotor. I would never run a floating caliper and a floating rotor. (Early Blaster axle in a Banshee)

And following very close behind in a 3 way tie for the runner-up position are, kozyshack, bansheegoon, and homestead.

It's been a while since I owned my '05 so I'm just going off the clymer manual. Although there is 1 documented mistake in the Clymer, I have never run across a mistake in their wiring diagrams. You just have to know how to read them. The colors you are seeing by the tail light, are the colors from the connector to the tail light. If you backtrack upstream, you will see that the 2 power feed wires, in the harness, are yellow and blue like you have in your harness. The grounds are always black. As mentioned before, the blue voltage regulator wire plugs into the yellow/red harness wire. Again, that blue wire by the stator connector doesn't belong there. Someone has added it. The rear brake switch wires should be yellow/red for the power feed and yellow for the power to the brake light. If you want to know what that blue wire is, get out your multimeter and see what circuit it connects to or just peel back the tape and see.

Yes on the voltage regulator but there shouldn't be a blue wire near the stator connector. The blue taillight wire connector should be near the CDI connector.

That schematic is actually for the older harness, but the blue wire part is the same. The only blue wire in the harness is the tail light circuit as shown above. The blue wire in the voltage regulator circuit is actually part of the regulator. It plugs into the yellow wire in the harness on 87-01 and yellow/red on 02-06.

The later style is actually 6 bolt. It is a little bigger in diameter. The later style swingarms have the rectangle tubes flattened out at the back end. Possibly for clearance of the bigger sprocket hub. So, what I am saying is that the larger diameter sprocket hub may hit the swingarm tube on the early style swingarm. I have both styles but have never tried to swap hubs.

Are both frame chain rollers, the lower chain guide and the chain slide at the swingarm pivot all in good shape? In addition to what's mentioned above, if you're running stock style carrier, the carrier mounting bolt holes can be wallowed out.

Have you checked your trans oil lately? You need to pay more attention to actually where the coolant is going. Is it going into the gearbox? Bad waterpump seal? Is it overheating and expanding and going out the overflow hose? Like maybe bad impeller or waterpump gear? Is a head O ring leaking and causing compression to push it out the overflow hose? Is the radiator cracked and leaking? A very slow leak will evaporate before it drips on the ground.