Starwriter

So, if the bolt turns easy, it seems like there's only 2 possibilities. The steel tubes are also turning, the motor mount is fucked, and the bolt is rusted into the tubes. Heat the tubes with a torch but don't get the cases too hot. Or, the bolt has been loose for a very long time and the frame ears have sawed a notch in the bolt, preventing it from sliding out. Jack up the motor, turn the bolt and tap it out.

Straight paddles and learn to steer by transferring your weight on the pegs.

Soooo, are you saying, you got the nut off the rear motor mount bolt, but the bolt is stuck in the motor mount tube? If so, spray liquid wrench, pb blaster, wd40 or whatever in there by the threads, in the middle where the mount tube is splits, etc and try turning the bolt with an impact wrench or breaker bar. Try turning forward and backward til it breaks loose. Worst case, you may need to heat the end of the bolt with a torch.

+4 make a nice all around play bike. If you had more power and were more into hill racing, +6 is about the limit of a decent play/duner/race bike.

1st you want to run without silencers. Now you want to put YFZ450 fenders on it? Stop eating the lead based paint!!!!!

Man, that's ugly!!! Something definitely beat the shit out of it. Possibly lower rod bearing pieces. Looks like time for a complete motor build.

Is it warped like a cereal bowl? If so, the slide pins are froze up on your caliper.

Stock is AC. There is only a single wire regulator. If you want to convert the system to DC, you need an aftermarket rectifier/regulator (All in 1 box), you need to float the ground on the stator, and do some wiring changes. Year doesn't matter.

Florida is a nice place to visit, but there's sure a lot of stupid fuckers living there. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lay-down-strut-Drag-banshee-/121148146338?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c34fe02a2

I'm pretty sure the stock gear is bigger diameter where it presses in, than the Hinson gear.

You need to do a DC conversion. Float the ground on the stator and wire up a rectifier/regulator. Although you don't have to put in a battery, as long as you're changing the wiring, you might as well put one in. That way, even if you shut off the motor, you still have lights. https://www.google.com/search?num=100&safe=off&site=&source=hp&q=dc+conversion+site%3Abansheehq.com&oq=dc&gs_l=hp.1.0.35i39j0i20l2j0l7.3249.4585.0.8059.2.2.0.0.0.0.179.307.0j2.2.0....0...1c.1.21.hp.zM5J1z96iQA

And that's you logic for not needing to do a leakdown test? WOW$$$$$$$!!!!!

So, if a compression test hasn't been done, it's a pretty safe assumption that a leakdown test has never been done since you have owned the bike. That would be the next step, after you do a compression test, even if you plan to tear it down.

Do a compression test and a leakdown test before you pull it apart.

If it looks like this or this

Yep, that's what I use. They fit so well, you almost have to wonder if Yamaha planned that.

Depends on carrier type. A roundhouse carrier mounts the caliper on top, compared to the stock style that mounts the caliper on the rear of the carrier. So, in other words, a stock length brake line will work on a +2 and maybe even a +4 roundhouse style swingarm. So, if you're running a +8 roundhouse swingarm, you need a shorter line than +8. If you're running stock style carrier, you need a +8 line. That's the way to tell if Craigslist Banshees, with crappy pics, have a stock style or roundhouse swingarm. Look for where the caliper is mounted.

Glad to be able to help you out, Shawn.

PM sent.

Holy Fuck! Hope things go well for him.

Direct Drive makes 10 X 2. Might be able to talk them into 10 X 3. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Direct-Drive/153436931341491

Many years ago, I parted out a '67 Mustang GT, deluxe interior, fold down rear seat, fastback, 390, 4 speed, 9" rear end, car. It was rear ended pretty hard. Didn't seem worth fixing at the time. Man, I wish I had that car back now.

You just compress the spring with your thumb and index finger and hold it against the carb cap while you attach the cable to the slide and pop in the retainer. Different carbs have different retainers.

Or Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Direct-Drive/153436931341491

21X7X10 Good tires.