Starwriter

Even though your posts make no sense at all, I believe that you are genuinely trying. So, here goes. Let's get some basics out there first. Clutch engaged--- you're riding across the dunes in a gear and your fingers are not touching the clutch lever Clutch disengaged---You're sitting in the parking lot waiting on your buddies. Trans is in 1st gear, clutch lever pulled against the grip, engine running, bike not moving There are basically only 3 SYMPTOMS of clutch problems. Clutch will not disengage-- You pull the clutch lever to the bar, stomp the shifter into gear and the bike lurches and the engine dies Clutch will not engage---You pull the clutch lever, shift into 1st, let the clutch out and the bike just sits there Clutch works normally, but slips when you're really getting on the throttle Now that we have those terms explained, start diagnosing. You should have about 1/2" of free play in the clutch lever on the bars. This is the distance that the lever pulls easily. The actual amount isn't critical as long as it's a close. 1/4" to 1" will still work. If you have 3" of free play, the clutch will not disengage completely. Assuming you have some amount of free play, now go to the clutch actuator(lever on top of the case). Push the actuator towards the right side of the bike. It should push easy for a small amount. When it stops with just light pressure, the pointer on the arm should line up with the pointer on the top of the case. If it doesn't, then you have things wrong in the clutch and the clutch cover needs to come off. It could be that someone adjusted the pressure plate adjustment screw wrong, a worn out clutch, or other problems. All clutch problems can be fixed without splitting the cases EXCEPT a severely welded clutch ball that is stuck inside the trans shaft. If the pointers line up properly, check your freeplay at the clutch lever on the bars. If it was fine before and now all of a sudden, you have way too much freeplay, the clutch cable stretched. Probably broke most of the strands, and the few remaining strands stretched. Now, let us know what you find based on this information.

Here's my mechanic.

I like it. Bench racing for pinks. LOL

Awesome!! Thanks for letting us know the outcome.

As little information as we're getting from the OP, it could be as simple as a stranded clutch cable.

That's the clutch actuator. Now tell us EXACTLY what happens when you try to go.

WTF? You need to learn the names of the clutch components and then describe exactly what happens when you pull the clutch lever and let it out. Clutch lever Cable Actuator Pushrod Ball Pressure plate Inner hub Fibers Steels Basket Cushions

MMMMMMM!!!!!

That's the R/B that must be grounded. Get out your multimeter and start doing resistance checks. Unplug the CDI and do your tests at the CDI connector. Banshee Electrical FAQ http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650 I see you have a new stator. Make sure to set the pickup coil gap.

WOW!

WTF? That just shows the intelligence level.

The regulator must be grounded. The black ground wire should have a ring terminal attached to 1 of the regulator mounting bolts. The regulator shunts excess current to ground to control charging voltage. Yep, just those 2 things. Install the regulator and unground the B/W wire. Glad to be able to help out.

The R/B wire needs to be grounded for it to run. You need to disconnect the B/W wire from ground. Grounding it kills the motor. Yes, solid black is ground. You also need the voltage regulator tapped into your headlight circuit, or you will fry headlights.

Listen you stupid fucker. It's guys like you that are getting our riding areas shut down because of the noise. There was once a time when you could ride almost all of the Oregon dunes ALL night long. There's nothing like hill racing at 3:00AM with a VW engine case bonfire at the bottom of comp hill. Now there is a "noise buffer" area and we can't ride on the dunes past 10:00 PM.

Kind of a crappy pic, but here you can see what it looks like. Post in the wanted section. aluminum thingys that goes in the slides that the cable hooks to and the screws.

You're missing a aluminum piece that screws into the slide with 2 phillips head screws. The cable hooks into that and then that steel piece slides into the aluminum piece.

Oh..... sorry, I was out riding on the dunes all day yesterday.

I don't know what you're smokin' or what your logic has to do with the OPs question. Toronto, Ontario, CANADA to Coos Bay, OR 2741 miles Toronto, Ontario, CANADA to Glamis 2,471 miles Ontario, OR to Glamis 947 miles And finally, even though nobody wants to go to Ontario, OR Toronto, Ontario, CANADA to Ontario, OR 1,844 miles

Ontario, Oregon is a loooong ways from Ontario, Canada

I google searched for "Nebraska" on bansheehq and you're the only one. LOL Sorry man, maybe someone in OK could bust you out some real quick.

Make sure the line that went to from the pump to the carb is disconnected and capped at the carb. Although it probably wouldn't hurt anything for the pump to just spin gleefully, if it was me, I would completely remove it. Especially if you have to tear into the motor for crank seals. When you remove the pump, 1 part goes inward and 1 part goes outward. Don't remember exactly which. Just make sure you don't pound the wrong way and bust a hole in the clutch cover. Like I mentioned, do a leakdown test. You need a plate and a piece of innertube to block off the exhaust.

X2, yeah if the autolube pump is still hooked up and you premixed, you have too much oil going through. Most people remove the autolube pump. Highly unreliable and you don't know it's not working till your motor blows. The $10 billet Banshee ebay clutch cover vent block off fits the blaster perfectly when you remove the pump. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-Clutch-Cover-Vent-Block-off-Plate-/110747369144?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c90ebeb8&vxp=mtr Do a leakdown test to see if the crank seals are bad. The Blaster case splits vertically. They're not fun to get the trans all put back together. Not like a Banshee. The crank seals can be replaced without splitting the case. Again, not like a Banshee.