Starwriter

Have you ever adjusted a chsin on a roundhouse swinger? They are soooooo nice. You have spent enough on a motor to need +8 or +10 and you're too cheap to spend the extra for a roundhouse? WOW! Why would anyone even build a +10 stock style swinger?

SD1026 finally did a compression test and came up with 90 and 65. He started a new thread about stuck rings. Just as I suspected, "I have compression" doesn't mean they actually did a compression test.

I'm not quite sure what you've got going on, but a stock rotor is 8 5/8". So, are you saying that the rotor that you're trying to use is bigger than that? If so, it appears that you just need a Banshee rotor.

http://www.google.com/search?q=1987+banshee&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=JkMCUoSGOOnsiQLw14H4Cg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=480&bih=268

Somewhere I read that the airstriker carbs use a different slide cutaway than the non airstrikers. Don't know if that's only the 35, or if it applies to the 38 also. See what you can figure out from this link, or call Sudco. http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams123/exppwk.gif

Man, I hate those fuckers. When you see the bright flash, you know you're screwed. In Europe, they have a lot of the speed cameras. Over there, they get even. They throw an old tire over the camera, fill the tire with gas and light it. LOL No more camera.

The middle bearing carrier is '88 to '02 Blaster.

Actually 7.4 ft lbs, but close enough. If you multiply 7.4 X 12, you get 89 in lbs. For the case bolts and nuts, head nuts, and pressure plate bolts, I convert everything to inch pounds. Just don't forget and grab the wrong torque wrench.

Google. It's amaaaazing. http://www.mud-throwers.com/atv_wheel_chart

This is what he needs. Just a regulator. Not mine. I don't have a spare.

Both? Bet a box of voodoo donuts, 1 of them is the TORS box.

You say it has compression. Did you actually do a compression test? If not, start there. If compression is over 110 and spark is good, it has to be fuel. Plugged petcock screen, or plugged pilot jets. Did you take the jets out, clean them, blow air through them, and LOOK through them? Or a squirrel filled your pipes with acorns.

Yep, remove the voltage regulator and the yellow wire. Don't need it if you're not running lights.

Did you line up 1 of the arrows on the pressure plate with the dot on the inner clutch hub? I'm gonna guess that you didn't.

1. Park brake switch wire. Remove it completely from the harness. Make sure it does not touch ground anywhere. 2. Correct. 3. Correct again. Get it out of there. Put the rubber grommet back into the thumb throttle with some black silicone sealer in the hole. 4. Not quite correct. Connect the red/blk wire to the black ground permanently. Solder and heat shrink is best. Use the black/white wire for your kill. Switch (connect) black/white to black to kill the motor.

I use Kaspersky. I trust the Russians a lot more than I trust companies in the US. Here's how I look at it. There is no way the Russians are interested in what's on my computer. I'm not that smart and I don't have that much money.

"Like new" LMAO!!!!! http://eugene.craigslist.org/mcy/3974971905.html

Do a leakdown test. If it fails, put the trans vent hose in a jar of water to see if you get bubbles.

Ignore the piece in the 1st pic with the hose clamps on it.

There's no need to glue a bunch of fittings together. Here is a pic of the basic stuff you need. This is not a pic of stuff specifically for 2 strokes, but you can get the idea from looking at it. You will need to use threaded reducer bushings to get everything to fit together with the size of PVC plug needed to fit the intake manifolds. Then just get a threaded plug to plug the threaded hole in the other side. The gauge setup below is commonly available for pressure testing natural gas plumbing. That's a good start. Here are the caps you need to block off the exhaust. Also in the plumbing department. Or as mentioned, you can use your stock front bumper caps.

Let me put it in a way that you should be able to understand. When you take a hit off your bong, if you don't put your thumb over the clear hole, you have a giant air leak and you aren't going to suck in very much smoke and you're not going to get stoned. It's the same thing with a 2 stroke. If you have an air leak because of cracked intake boots, leaking reed gaskets, or leaking base gaskets, you're sucking in straight air, instead of air mixed with fuel and OIL, and your motor will turn into a brick.

I gotta admit, I did have a bit of a brain fart, as far as port heights on this, in my earlier post, but most of my post was relevant. I wouldn't be too quick to put 45 pilots in it. I run 40 pilots in my 33mm PWKs on my SS duner and it likes it. As mentioned by others, raise the needle clip position, and see what happens.

Yep, I thought so. "programmable max close and max open positions" http://www.zeeltronic.com/page/pcdi-10v.php

But at low RPM, the motor is seeing the top of the powervalve as the port height, which should be considerably lower than the top of the Banshee exhaust port. I don't know specs, but that's just an assumption. Also, I'm pretty sure the Zeeltronic has adjustable settings for the powervalve positions. Of coarse, the lower the power valve is in the low position, the farther it gets away from the piston. At some point, that would be very bad.