Starwriter

If you have a stock swingarm, there may still be a thin stainless sleeve on there. That must be removed. When you install the dust cap, make sure the rubber seal is in place. I put the rubber seal about 3/4 of the way into the dust cap, then start the seal onto the swinger, then shove it on. Also, there should be a large washer in each dust cap. Just about every bike I have bought has been missing those washers.

Near the front of the tank. Blk/red and Blk wires.

Sort of, but not really. The key switch grounds the blk/red wire in the run position. The kill switch is open in the run position and grounds the blk/white wire to kill it.

I use a hydraulic press. You can do it with a piece of pipe and a hammer. Put the pipe on something solid. Set the hub on the pipe and whack the stud. Do not try to just whack the stud out with the hub on the bike. You will bend the hub. Don't ask how I know this.

I have heard of people having weird jetting problems by putting extensions on the pods. Never tried it myself. Mull is the company that makes the funnels for stock carbs. They must have it figured out.

If they're the same as the PWKs, order the easy springs from FAST.

On the ignition coil, check the primary from spade terminal to spade terminal. On the secondary, check from plug boot to plug boot. Add 5,000 ohms for each plug boot. So, you should have about 15,000 ohms with the boots on and about 5,000 if you remove the boots and just check the coil and wires. The Clymer manual is wrong on the coil test procedure.

Exactly! I run Belray gearsaver and I leave it in there till I feel like changing it. Most motorcycle shops carry it.

Make your own flywheel puller? Seriously? They're $15. The only way to make one is in a lathe. I have a lathe and could make one, but there's no way I would spend the time to do it. Besides that, you would need a flywheel in your hand to check the thread depth.

Vicegrips or a spring puller hook tool.

Very, very nice bike!! Except for the 2 inch hose clamps. Not meaning to cut you down. You've done very nice work. Just put the right size hose clamps on it. (And peel off the bar code sticker). LOL.

Yep, and your fender color choices are going to be white for 87 and 88 and red for 89.

At 70 lbs of compression, it shouldn't even start. First thing I would do is get a new compression gauge.

The stock pressure plate and inner hub are fine to use. The billet baskets hold up better to increased horsepower. If you get into some serious horsepower, you get the Hinson inner hub and pressure plate and it allows you to run 8 plates instead of the stock 7.

I've already got one on the shelf that I won't risk running. I'll sell you mine for $75 shipped. Then you'll have a matched pair.

40% chance it will work great for you. 30% chance it will have a high RPM miss. 60% chance it will puke and leave you stranded.

Just checked the part numbers. They're the same. Part# 99510-12016-00

The Hinson basket looks practically brand new! On the last pic, see those divots in the basket fingers on the stock basket? That's bad. On the Hinson basket, when it get's just a very slight amount of wear, it very noticeable because you see the anodizing worn off. The anodizing is not worn off on yours.

The 1st one (Bottom one your last pic) is a Rick's Motorsports 200 watt stator. Better quality than a Ricky Stator, but still a crap shoot. http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/part/21-908H/MDBZYW1ZRlozNTA=

And put rivet washers on the back side so it doesn't pull right through the plastic.

The shock mounts are not centered between the pivot bushings (front to rear), so there's no way the shocks would mount up.

Clamp a pair of vicegrips on the back side of the pop rivet so it doesn't spin when you drill it.

That's some pretty unique bracing on the lower shock mount. Surely somebody on here knows what they are. If nobody chimes in, start an "identify these arms" thread.

Damn, that's gotta hurt!! Glad to see you up and about. Just don't be dumb and ride before the doc says it's OK. I've known guys that went riding before they were healed and screwed things up worse than the initial injury.

That's way too much caster. Obviously the caster isn't adjustable on those arms. The lower arms have to be right. Is it possible that the upper arms need to be swapped side to side?