Starwriter

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The slots in a stock swingarm aren't long enough to allow for full adjustment with sprocket combos different than stock. Take a die grinder to the slots and lengthen them out.

Make friends with a local machine shop and have them put it in the lathe between centers and run the dial indicator on it. Then you'll know for sure.

If it were mine, I would put it in the hydraulic press and straighten it, but it's your bike and your neck on the line. Your choice.

Tip it up on the grab bar and look at the bottom of the frame. As much as that bike has been slammed into things, it wouldn't surprise me if that frame is beyond hope.

Why would you buy new plastics for something that beat up. That frame has to be all bent up.

As mentioned, check the adjustment. If the brake lever is hitting the clutch cover and not allowing the master cylinder to completely release, the brake will lock up as the brake fluid heats up and expands. It's also possible that there's chrome in the bore of the master, preventing the piston from completely releasing.

OK, I weighed them. The front caliper with mounting plate and no banjo bolt weighs 23.6oz. The rear caliper with mounting plate, park brake block off plate with bolts and no banjo bolt weighs 29.9oz. A total weight savings of 6.3oz. Not quite 1/2lb. Or the equivalent of about $100 worth of ti bolts.

Aesthetically, the block off plates look like ass. The shape doesn't even match the contours of the caliper. It looks like somebody put a Ford hood on a Chevy, but it's accepted because that's the way everybody does it. It screams, "I took off this useless piece of safety gear and put a bandaid over the hole". And for people spending hundreds on ti bolts, I bet a front caliper weighs less than a rear.

Just for you. I mounted a rear caliper mount plate to a right front caliper and stuck in on an old stock carrier that I had laying around. The tab that holds the stock brake line from turning, just BARELY hit the stock carrier. Grind just a little bit off the caliper where it hits and it will be fine. The tab is marked with red in this pic. I also stuck it on an 87-88 style carrier. It bolts on just fine, but the carrier will need to be ground out a bit for the banjo bolt to clear the carrier.

Oh, he bought a brand new Shearer pipe? Yeah, should definitely come with the flange.

Looking back, I guess it was only 24 minutes from the time he posted til he mentioned the communication probs. Still, he would have had way more credibility if he would have mentioned the communication probs and posted pics in the very 1st post. Yeah, he doesn't have to prove anything to us. It's not our problem, but he's the one that let the cat out of the bag.

Nobody has mentioned the cracked web at the pin hole. Here's the way I see it. Maybe the bearing retainers were left out. A better pic of the snap ring grooves in the top and bottom case would prove that. If the crank moved that far and a full or half snap ring of any kind was in there, the grooves would be all wallowed out. So, the looseness of the pin is because the web is cracked. The penetration of the weld is probably still there, but it's cracked through the middle of the weld because the web is cracked and the pin is no longer a press fit. The weld is not enough to hold things in place without the press fit of the pin. Did the web rubbing on the case create enough heat to crack the web? Maybe. I have no knowledge or affiliation with Brad, but if I were him, I would tell you to fuck off too for bringing this out in public without talking to him first.

Something really fishy here. I'm with n2o on this. There is no way the aluminum case ground away all of the weld. It would have to grind a significant amount of steel off the web all the way around. The weld should be at least 1/16" into the web and pin. It's not just piled on the outside. Even if you took a hard disk grinder and ground 1/8" off the web and pin, there still isn't going to be looseness between the web and pin. It's a really tight press fit all the way through.

LOL. Not my pic. Found it on Google with the arrow already pointing to the right place.

OK, cool. Don't forget the bend over washer.

When the sprocket nut is tightened up, that is what clamps the shaft, bearing, spacer, and sprocket together. It's normal to have endplay when it's not tightened up. Hopefully the threads on the shaft aren't trashed.

In case you're wondering, they're only $8 each brand new.

Definitely not the correct way to adjust the pancake bearing. Inspect the actuator and adjust the pancake correctly and see if your problem goes away. If you have a Clymer manual, it's on page 69.

Well, this would certainly be a kick in the pants. Somebody from SC area should try to get it. I wonder what his reserve is. http://www.ebay.com/itm/rz350-421-banshee-1984-Yamaha-/111455978025?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19f34b4229&vxp=mtr

"I put the little hose out of the water pump cover and the hose from the back of case into my soapy spray bottle I didn't see bubbles" OK, you did good. Now you know the crank seals not leaking. OK, now I see the bubbles. Like I mentioned, it's perfectly normal for the bolt holes to be drilled through. However, you need to figure out how the pressure is getting into the bolt hole. Did they port the inside of the reed box too much? So, the air leak is on the left side? Wasn't it the right side that burnt a hole in the piston? Looks like you need to keep looking for the problem. However, on an equally lean condition, the right piston will usually burn a hole 1st.

Those intake bolt holes are perfectly normal. You didn't mention exactly where the bubbles are coming from. When you put the crankcase vent hose in a glass of water, did you put both vent hoses in water?

It takes all of 5 seconds to push on the clutch actuator lever with your finger and see if the arrows line up.

33 and 35 PWK are the exact same carb, except the 33 is not bored out as far. If you look at the 33, you will see that it is not bored through the center. This is so the needle jet is still at the bottom of the bore.