Starwriter

That is fuckin crazy, alright! You're going to go that fast on the beach, wheel to wheel, with a bunch of other crazy fuckers? LOL!!!

Good job! I'm really surprised you were able to "glue" the crack together. Good luck at the race. Hope you do well.

Is this what you're calling the "header pipe"? If so, unless Pro Circuit is weird, you just need the stock hangers (2) like I posted the pic of. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Banshee-pipe-Pro-Circuit-platinum-header-free-shipping-/251335147463?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a84bdffc7&vxp=mtr

This piece, right? This is a stock one. Cascade sells some really nice chrome ones. For the silencers, I just bolt the silencers directly to the frame.

If stock carbs, you need to loosen the gold bracket on the side that goes up and locks into 1 of the ribs on the cap. Other than that, just grab that bitch and turn. Use channel lock pliers if it's really stuck.

Agreed. If it won't pass leakdown, there's no point in even taking it out of the shop. It just amazes me that people think they don't need to do a leakdown test. A leakdown test should be done any time 1 of the following applies. You just bought the bike. You just built the motor. You just had ANY part of the top end apart. You have an unexplained bad running condition, even though the jetting should be right. The bike runs really good with 380 jets in it. You just blew up the motor and are about to open it up. (Unless there is an obvious rod hanging out the bottom)

The clutch push rod is in the way. Tip the motor to the right or poke a small rod/coathanger/whatever in there and shove it towards the clutch. Don't lose the ball on the other end of the rod.

I know you mentioned no leaks, but did you actually DO a leakdown test?

Maybe 250r hubs are different for different years.

No they won't. If you could stretch them that far, it would be a hell of a stretch. Stock is 43mm. 28 PWKs are 50mm.

joe200002 is a big fan, swears by them, stops so good, it's like your bike hit a wall.

minkia38 on ebay. Also known as Rattlecan Ray. Has screwed lots of people. Amazing somebody hasn't beat the shit out of him. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133195 http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=minkia38&iid=-1&de=off&items=25&which=negative&interval=365&_trkparms=negative_365

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/sealed.html

Very nice Dodge. The 1st thing I noticed was the 3/4 axles. Somebody put a lot of work into that truck. With the full removable top, that'll be a fun rig.

I'm 60% sure you can put Banshee hubs on the 250R.

87-94 95-96 97-01 02-last year of production This shows the differences, but do NOT buy anything from this dickwad. http://www.motorcityatv.com/parts-store/electronics/

Wow, that's great. Just make sure the 'ol lady is out shopping.

Oh shit! I was meaning small stuff like water pump cover, clutch cover insert, handle bar clamp, reservoir covers, etc. Definitely strip and polish the clutch cover and stator cover.

5 is safe. 4 works very well, but with a slightly higher risk of debeading the tire in a crash.

Aircraft paint stripper and lots of work. Probably not worth the effort on most of the billet pieces. Sell them cheap and buy new billet pieces.

http://www.bansheedepot.com/default.asp

Get ahold of either NYUK or quadpro26. They probably have shoe boxes full of them from all the bikes they parted out. While you're at it, compile a list of Banshee specific bolts, clips, washers, springs, dust caps, intake boot clamps, etc. It's nice to have a grab bag of stuff when you're putting a bike together and you're missing that 1 little clip on Friday just before the big Saturday ride.

The ONLY wires that should be connected together to bypass anything, are the red/black and black wires to eliminate the key switch.

Nology coil from FAST.