Starwriter

^what he said, and the PTO side crank keyway.

Great. Now read every bit of the clutch section, check your adjustments according to the manual. If you still have problems, disassemble the clutch and inspect for the pressure plate assembled wrong or worn parts.

↑↑↑ What he said. Or your clutch is burnt up. Or you are mixed up on what engaged and disengaged mean. Buy a Clymer manual and then tear into it. If you're too cheap to pay Clymer for their efforts of printing the book, you're too cheap to own a Banshee.

Your "mechanic" is a retard.

28 PWKs. Here's the chart. Bookmark it. You will find it very valuable when buying used carbs. http://www.sudco.com/pwk.html

Cool! That was fast. Also worth mentioning, is that Cascade also sells those mounts without the hole for the light drilled in them. They're just a nice looking billet cover to cover up the stock tabs if you're not going to be running lights. I keep the stock headlights in the trailer and it only takes a few minutes to swap them on if I want to go for a night ride.

You have too high of wattage bulbs. 35 watts each is the max the stock stator will power. You probably have 50 watt bulbs

Oil leaking out the front is probably just a leaking O ring at the exhaust connection to the cylinder. Messy, but not a big deal. You really need to do these things before you "tear into it". 1. Leakdown test 2. Buy Clymer manual 3. Read through this. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912

I know what you mean. I have done the rear conversion both ways. I read a lot of stuff about machining a spacer, stacking washers, etc. It's all crap. PM me if you need any more advice.

OOPS! I meant Do NOT use the East Coast ATV bracket with the Banshee brake hub and axle.

I don't know if you've done your research, but doing a hydro conversion on a blaster is not this simple. Banshee spindles do not fit Blaster A arms. I think they can be modded to work, but it's not a great setup. Personally, I would only do it with '03 to '06 Blaster spindles. The Banshee rear carrier does not fit the Blaster swingarm. Again, '03 to '06 carrier is needed. If you want to cheap out, you can use the East Coast ATV aluminum caliper bracket with a Banshee hydro caliper and your early Blaster carrier, axle, and brake hub. It is a nice setup, but you have to use the Blaster axle. Do NOT use the East Coast ATV bracket with the Banshee caliper and axle. Of coarse, you have to weld brackets on the frame for the mastercylinder. For the pedal, it's best to get the '03 to '06 Blaster footpeg and pedal.

A good friend of mine has a transmission shop. I take my cases there and put them in the parts dishwasher. 20 minutes and they're clean.

Before you tear it apart, do a leakdown test. You never know what some hacktard that built the motor did. If it passes leakdown, then replace your reeds and do a leakdown test to make sure your reed gaskets aren't leaking.

I don't deal with exact deck height numbers. I let my builder figure that out. But, with a 4 mill, you want the piston above the deck and have a set of domes cut to get the proper squish clearance. 4 mill divided by 2 equals roughly 2mm above the deck. (.080")

I like the wagon. That's bitchin'!!

If it's a link type swingarm and you weigh under 190 lbs, your stock shock will work fair, as is. Ideal would be to have it resprung and revalved for your weight.

I have a pair of 795MO6550, brand new in the boxes. PM sent.

LOL! Yeah, fast flying off a cliff. It's that sudden stop at the bottom that sucks, though. Seriously though, all the BHQ sponsor builders are either getting their stuff ready to go to the BHQ ride or they're finishing stuff up for their customers that are going on the BHQ ride.

Definitely buy '03 to '06. Perfect fit. If you use the earlier Blaster axle, you end up with a floating disc and a floating caliper. You might get away with it, but it's not right.

Glad to be able to help. Uh, stock brake lines? Looks like this?

If you keep the vent by the waterpump, then you need to tee the 2 hoses together and go up to the steering stem hoop and back down. If you eliminate the vent near the waterpump, you can let the trans vent just hang down the back of the motor, BUT, if you ever tip the bike up vertical so it's resting on the grab bar, trans oil may run out. Personally, I would just run the single line up to the steering stem hoop and back down a little ways.

That's about a worthless post. Why even bother? There's a small line that goes from the top of the cylinder head to the top of the radiator. NOT to the radiator cap neck. Throw the coolant overflow bottle in the trash. You don't need it. Run the hose from the radiator cap neck straight down, and through the bracket on the frame that the front fender support brace bolts to if you had full fenders. Snip the hose off just below the frame. The ones at the back of the trans and by the waterpump are vents. They tee together and the hose goes up to the steering stem hoop and then back down a little ways. You only need 1 vent. The 1 by the waterpump can be eliminated. There is a very nice billet vent block off piece sold on ebay for $10. To remove the vent hose fitting, you have to remove the clutch cover and pound the fitting inward. Back it up with a piece of pipe so you don't bust the cover. To find the blockoff, search ebay for banshee vent with cheapest items first.

Glad things are going reasonably well. Hang in there, man. Hope you have a hot looking nurse for physical therapy.

"Here, take my Banshee for a ride. You can quit any time you want." LOL

I've run 3 stock and 3 aftermarket springs on every Banshee I've owned, as do all my friends. With a good, lubed cable, you'll be fine.