Starwriter

Although 1/2 pound in 6 minutes is perfectly acceptable, I wouldn't be happy with any amount of intake gasket leak. I would pull them and seal them with 1211, let it dry over night and retest.

Any Banshee roundhouse carrier will work as long as it's set up for your axle. Stock 35mm or 40mm drag axle. (Except one made for a Lonestar titanium swingarm. Don't think you're gonna find one of those)

The reason I suggested pulling the exhaust and looking at the pistons as #2, is because it's easy and doesn't require a replacement gasket or draining fluids. If you're going to do a leakdown test, you need the exhaust off anyway. Have you looked at the spark plugs yet? If you see the side electrode smashed over or grey specs, that's bad.

http://www.bansheehq.com/bansheehq-sponsors/

Remove the spring out of the thumb throttle. It's only needed for the TORS. Buy a billet extended thumb throttle for a YFZ450. The one they sell for Banshee is too long. The YFZ450 one is just right.

Definitely buy a roundhouse carrier swingarm. Chain adjusts are soooooooo much easier. Plus the roundhouse carrier moves the brake caliper from the back to the top so with +2 you won't need a longer brake line.

Uh, I've never tried removing the clutch actuator without 1st removing the clutch pushrod, but I'm pretty sure the pushrod is going to stop you from removing the actuator.

A while back, Lonestar was closing out their rear hubs, that have pinch bolts, for about $100. If the axle splines are only a little bit worn, you could call Lonestar and see if they have any left. Remember there's 2 different wheel bolt patterns for Banshee. If the splines are severely worn, junk the axle and hub.

If you do, it'll end up looking like this. If it were mine, I would do things in this order. 1 Pull the stator cover and see what happens when you try to turn the flywheel back and forth BY HAND. 2 Pull the exhaust and look into the exhaust ports to see what the pistons look like. 3 If you don't see anything bad with the pistons, Consider pulling the clutch cover to see if there's a problem there. 4 If you're going to pull the top end apart, DO A LEAKDOWN TEST FIRST! Is there any chance you ran unmixed gas in it?

WTF?

FFS. 55 miles. Do you even own a car?

It's not a great pic, but it's the best I can do.

Here's where it used to be. It's 404 now. http://www.bansheehq.com/yz-banshee-specs-sponsors.html

He's also the Oklahoma Toyota rep. He supplies Yaris stunt cars for Redline Racing.

WOW! I just went back and looked at your pics. How about the way the crank and cases are worn away from the side of the web hitting the cases? That things a MESS!!

Go to page 147 in your clymer manual. Measure your crank width according to the pic and specs. When you find out it's 2mm too wide, send it to a builder.

yes

They're different where the rotor bolts on. The only other differences are cosmetic.

I would bet it was running slobbery rich when the slides were in the wrong sides and there's a bunch of premix oil sitting in the pipes. The carbs do need to be synced, but I bet if you pull the pipes, oil will pour out of them.

I have billet intakes with about a 1/2" spacer built into it, 33 PWKs, and pods that are angled 10 degrees. I put the pods on so they are angled to the right and I put a zip tie around both of them the to suck them together just a bit and keep the outerwares away from the pipes. I have T5 pipes with Cascade stingers and silencers.

Leave the clutch discs in. Push on the discs with your fingers and buzz the nut off with the impact.

It's very common to leak at the keyway if you don't seal it with some sealer during assembly. This is why, on a new build, you should always do a leakdown test before you put the clutch cover on.