Starwriter

Cut a couple inches off, pull on the hose and stick it back on the vent. Best to keep sand and water out of your trans.

1 thing at a time. What we are shooting for here is to separate the crank from the rest of the drivetrain. If you pull the clutch basket, the large primary gear comes off with it. No need to pull the crank gear. Then grab the flywheel and try to turn it by hand. If it won't turn, then do a leakdown test and then pull the top end off.

This one is pretty bitchin'. No price. I'm sure they want stupid money for it. http://jacksontn.craigslist.org/sno/4114363763.html

It's 92% sure that 1 of the pistons is seized in the bore. There's a 7% chance that it's something jammed up in the kicker idler gear, transmission, or primary gears. There is a 1% chance that it is something else jamming it up. Crank bearings or whatever. There's only so much we can tell from your pics looking into the exhaust port. You really need a paper manual. I don't remember if you're one of the ones that downloaded the pirated manual. Pulling the clutch basket requires a 32mm (or 1 1/4") socket. If you pull the crank gear, and you find the motor seized, then you need to put it back on to do a leakdown test before you pull the top end.

The clutch basket isn't turning, so the motor isn't turning. Forget about the kicker, you need to figure out why it won't turn. Either remove the clutch basket or the crank gear. If the crank still won't turn, the motors seized.

If you bought a phillips bit for your air impact gun, you will definitely strip them out. If you bought an impact driver like I posted the link to, just apply a counterclockwise twisting force and whack it with a hammer. They will come loose easily. If you have any that do strip the head, drill the head with a drill a little bigger than the bolt. Drill till you can pop the head off. Then slide the cover off and screw the bolt out.

That left piston doesn't look too good, but I can't see it very good on my iphone. You need an impact driver for all the phillips head screws on the motor. Sears, Auto zone, O'reillys, etc. Do not buy this tool at Harbor Freight. You want good quality bits. http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/accessories/Great-Neck-5-pcs-impact-driver-set-with-plastic-storage-case/_/N-25dw?id=529289

What prices?

Looks nice. Too bad they didn't cut off the unneeded tabs.

I woulda pissed in the radiator, got my buddies to piss in it, paid chicks $10 each to piss in the radiator and then posted pics on BHQ. If you can get girls to piss in your radiator, you are the MAN.

Wow, does that mean they're free?

This is one that I did. I am not a machinist, but I get by. There are 3 dogs on the corresponding gear. So, stock is 3 dogs going into 6 dogs. By cutting out 3 of the 6 dogs, you allow more time for the dogs to engage. This does not weaken the trans or have any bad side effects.

Start here. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650 If you don't know how to use a multimeter, google search How to use a multimeter. As far as the broken timing plate, sounds like a perfect excuse to buy an adjustable timing plate. I wouldn't replace the stator just because it's rusty. If it fails resistance test, then replace it. Just so you know, for it to run, the key switch must be closed circuit(connected to black ground wire) and the kill switch must be open. (Not grounded)

Just found my notes on the shift drum bearing. It's a # 6902 bearing. Just machine down the shift drum for a press fit and press it on. Leave some space between the side of the bearing and the face you just machined into the drum.

^yeah, what he said. Besides, you're a machinist? Mod the trans while it's apart. Mill out 3 dogs of all the gears that have 6 dogs. Machine the shift drum for a ball bearing on the left end, mod the shift shaft and the shift star. It will shift sooooo much nicer.

Yep, time to split the cases, but, don't do it upside down. After you have everything ready to split, with the crank gears removed, put a ratchet strap from 1 end of the crank, over the head, between the spark plugs to the other end of the crank. Just tighten it snug. Don't get carried away. Then lift the top case off, leaving the trans in the lower half. While it's apart, flip the top half over, remove the ratchet strap, lift the crank slightly and replace the crank seals. Check to see if the crank pins are welded. If they're not, do a complete teardown and send the crank to be trued and welded. If it's a stock crank and it is already welded, make sure the pins in the crank bearings are located properly when you put it back together. Also, make sure you remove the steel strap behind the clutch basket that ties the top and bottom case halves together.

http://racetechelectric.com/c-279836-stators-quad-atv.html

There's something fishy about Racetech. They came on here wanting to change the aftermarket stator world by getting people to try their stuff, and bragging about how great it is. Now all they sell is Rick's Motorsports junk. And as the OP stated, $300 to rewind an OEM stator is RIDICULOUS.

Just pick which hole you want to stick it in and get it on.

Let me see if I got this straight. Earlier you started a thread asking what kind of head you have. It was determined that it is a White Knuckle head and White Knuckle gave you their phone number. So, you ordered 21cc domes that are specific to their head, and they sent you 20cc domes, because they don't make 21 cc domes for their head anymore? That's BULLSHIT! That would be like going to McDonalds, ordering a Big Mac and have them hand you a bag with a McChicken sandwich in it because "They don't make Big Macs anymore"

They were made by Tricklicks back in about 2006. They were REALLY expensive. There was a Banshee for sale in my area with these, both front and rear, about a year ago. I went and looked at it with the possible intention of buying it and then reselling the bike with stock plastics. When I saw them in person, I decided they just weren't for me. It's a cool look, but it's also a different look.

$45 + the cost of an OEM headgasket would be better spent towards a used cool head and a set of new O rings.

So, now can you turn the flywheel by hand? If so, turn it and take another look at the pistons. there is no way that the pistons seized and don't show some signs of trouble on the exhaust side.

And your point? 100 does not equal 110. Duh!

If you're running stock sprocket and brake hubs, it's 35mm.