Starwriter

The big ones on the bottom of the cases with nuts on them. You took the nuts off, right?

Just whack them apart with a plastic dead blow hammer or a rubber mallet. Do NOT pound a screwdriver into the case split.

You need complete lower A arms. Any year Banshee will fit. The 1st few years were painted different colors.

It really doesn't matter, since they've never been ran. I made a mistake on the previous post. I meant never put the circlip split at 3:00 or 9:00. Always put it at 12:00 or 6:00.

Did you check the pickup coil gap on the flywheel that didn't work? Maybe the gap was too wide.

You might contact these guys and see if they can fix yours. I have no experience with them. If you go with them, let us know how it turns out. http://www.piperepair.com/

Pull the pistons off so you can remove the crank completely from the cases for inspection. That will also make reassembly much easier. You're supposed to replace the wrist pin circlips with new ones any time you remove them. Some people probably reuse the old ones, but I never take chances. Put the split of the circlip either up or down. Never put it at 3:00 or 6:00. Mark the pistons so they go back in the same bores. When you have the crank out, check to make sure that the crank pins are welded. If they're not, send the crank to a builder to be trued and welded. If the previous owner is that much of a moron, I would replace the left side seal too. Who knows if he nicked the seal surface or something. Read this thread. It will help you a bunch. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912

What are you actually going to work on/replace? Do NOT just set the motor on the pistons. If you're pulling the crank, the pistons have to be removed anyway. If you're rebuilding the top end, the pistons have to come off. If you're only working on the trans, you shouldn't have removed the cylinders.

banshee 268 was looking for some back in September. He hasn't been on since September 24th though. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=169782&hl=

I would move to someplace warmer, but not to someplace where you can be killed by failing hail or crawly things while you sleep.

How far does it need to run at 80mph, before it blows, to piss of your buddies? The next thread will probably be something like this.

Area code 209 is going to be a helluva drive. Hit up BANSHEE HP He's down there somewhere. Maybe he can hook you up. BTW, if you slammed something hard enough to bend the J arms, there's a good chance the shocks are bent.

Compression on the 1st kick is meaningless. Hold the throttle wide open and kick till the gauge stops moving.

When I bought them 2 years ago, they were $10 each with $7 shipping on 4 of them. Custom Pipes Inc. (801)829-5877

You can buy the flanges brand new from CPI for cheap. No cutting or grinding needed.

There are 4 plugs for the TORS. The only one you need to unplug is the black box with a 3 wire plug under the left front of the tank. Did you go to that link I posted? That has everything you need to know to diagnose it. It's not possible to test the CDI. If everything else passes tests, substitute a known good CDI. Common problems are stator windings, pickup coil gap, coil wire boots, bad ground connection where the black wires join together inside the harness, and melted wires on the right exhaust stinger.

Looks awesome. Milto thinks it looks like a banana.

What have you tested so far and what were the results?

Damn, you're a fucking idiot. No further explanation needed here. To the OP, just buy a set of new bearings and seals. They're cheap from rocky mountain ATV or any other supplier. It's called maintenance.

OK, so the guys an idiot. "PRO SUSPENION i cant remember the brand". LOL He obviously didn't build the bike and has no idea what's in it, but here's the obvious things I see in the pics. Aftermarket A arms, reservoir shocks, antivibe steering stem, 1 1/8" bars, ASV levers, braided stainless lines, aftermarket wheels, roundhouse swingarm, durablue or G force axle, AC bumper, nerf bars, and grab bar, Toomey T6 pipes, and misc billet goodies. You can sell the PIAA lights to one of your 4WD buddies.

Screw that hokey ass Yamaha design. Just get a banjo bolt switch and be done. If you're retrofitting an earlier bike with the OEM switch, you need the switch with mounting bracket, spring, link, clutch cover bolt hook thing, and the brake pedal. Or you have to weld a tab on your early brake pedal. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Hydraulic-Brake-Switch-10x1-25mm-Wire-Replaces-Banjo-Bolt-with-Washer-/231030637876?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ca7fc534&vxp=mtr

Holy crap!! Pics of your forearm!! I might be somewhat interested in the headlights if they're somewhat repairable and cheap. Pics? Do they still work?

Here's a VERY nice Banshee. It's a bit of a road trip for you though. Talk him down to about $2800 and it would be a smokin' deal. http://knoxville.craigslist.org/mcy/4111631162.html

Just a hunch, but my guess would be Cambridge, Ohio.