Starwriter

The current prices are about $300 to $375 shipped, with a title. About $100 to $150, no shipping, without a title.

Whoever wrote that quote you posted is definitely smoking crack. It's not anywhere on the page that you posted the link to. The information on the page you posted the link to is about 94% accurate. Here is the same information with a few corrections. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650

Are those tires optimum for what surface you're riding on? I only ride sand, so I don't know what prowedges are actually good for.

Probably not going to get a reply from him here. Probably should try emailing him at the email addy above. jinx44 Member Since 14 Jul 2003 OFFLINE Last Active Aug 30 2013 06:12 AM

What's your budget? This is as pretty as it gets.

LMAO!! What crackhead came up with that one? Post a link.

Gonna be hard to get someone to press them out of good hubs. I just buy them from the Yamaha dealer when I get a bike that someone fubared them.

$56.93

There's a + and - raised in the plastic by the spade terminals. Orange wire goes to + .

I was refering to the edge of the metal where it was stamped out. 1 side is sharp and the other side is rounded. The sharp side goes inward. The rounded side goes outward.

Yep, that is classic!!

Yeah, what he said, and put the steels on with the rounded edge outward. You know about staggering the bump things on the steels, right?

Amen, brother! "as long as I have this apart, I might as well do this and I'm not going to see the full benefit of that unless I do this and this and this too, and I need to get that power to the ground so I need better tires and then the clutch won't hold up, so I need better clutch goodies, and now the front end comes up all the time so I need a longer swingarm and now the thing is so fast it's beating me to death and I need better shocks. What was Yamaha thinking when they built these ill handling slow pieces of shit?"

When you're eating ramen noodles so you can save money for a 4mil crank, you fit right in here.

Yeow! I made my own wristpin puller. If you make one, be sure to make the round end small enough to clear the circlip.

Here, did the work for you. http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/for/4149352599.html

I don't know what this is supposed to accomplish, but it can't be good for the rods. Set the crank on the bench, grab it like a man, and buzz the nut off with an impact wrench.

If all your bearings are good, it's only about $75 to have it trued and welded. The seals you put in yourself when you assemble the motor.

The crank just lifts out. You can see if it's welded without taking it out. Look at the PTO side crank web. 1/2 of the crank pin is visible. The other half of it is behind the bearing. If there are no visible welds on that pin, you need to send that crank to a builder.

There you go. Now that was easy. Here's a pic that shows the drain hole in the case and the holes for the 2 studs on each side of it. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=24075

I can't tell much from that small pic, but what I can see is that both crank seals are there. Something that is concerning though, is that it looks like 1 of the center crank bearing pins is straight up, instead of in the notch in the front of the cases. On another note, are the crank pins welded?

If your carb bowl overflow hoses are missing or short enough that they don't go to the back of the motor, fuel leaking onto the top of the case will drain down the above mentioned hole in the cases and drip off those 2 studs with nuts. I've seen it happen. Thought I was going to have to split the cases the night before a ride. Turned out it was just my carb needle and seat leaking.

I thought of that, but if the OP can't see oil running all the way down the side of the clutch cover, he needs to sell it and buy a skatebord so he can go play haky sack with his buddies.

No, the sprocket is on the left side of the motor. If you have a leak on the right side, it's either the clutch cover gasket or cracked cases. Clean it well, run it a bit and look for where it's coming from.

WOW!!! www.probolt-usa.com is my new favorite site. Aluminum, titanium, stainless. For plastics, I am thinking colored countersunk anodized bolts with different color countersunk washers and nylon washers to protect the plastic. Better use locktite. For the price, you don't want them falling out. http://www.probolt-usa.com/aluminium/aluminium-bolts-and-washers-countersunk.html?limit=100&p=4