Starwriter

WOW!!! I found a left side thumb throttle. Check it out. http://www.shawftware.com/

Years ago, I had a machine shop bore a pair of RD400 cylinders for me. The reed cage mounting flange hangs down below the cylinder base. They didn't block the cylinder up to clear. They called me up after they bored the 1st one way crooked and told me that it didn't clean up and that I needed to buy bigger pistons. I went down and picked up the cylinders. When I got back to my shop, I realized what they had done. I went back there with my machinists square and proved to them that the bore wasn't square with the base. If it could have been bored straight, it would have been on the last bore. I made them buy me a brand new cylinder from Yamaha and also pay my builder for the porting on it.

Lookin' good. Throw away the swiss cheese brake disc guards.

You could tie the front and rear brakes together with a double banjo bolt and a long brake line. But... I doubt if 1 master will push enough fluid to do 3 brakes. Run the lines and try it. Galfer will make custom brake lines any way you want. If that doesn't work, mount a 2nd rear master and weld another tab on the rear brake lever. If you need a delay in 1 of the brakes, slot the hole a bit so the other one starts applying 1st. If you still have too much lockup on the front or rear, you can decrease the braking by cutting away part of the pads, so there isn't as much pad contact area. There is a way to make a balance bar to distribute the percentage of braking between the 2 masters, but I don't think it's that critical.

Wow, that's rough! Glad to hear you still have the spirit to ride. Sounds like you have a really nice bike. I would look more into a foot operated clutch and a dunable override. Making the front brakes work should be easy. Get a sport bike hydraulic clutch master and plumb it to the front brakes. Making a left side thumb throttle is going to be a challenge. A twist throttle would get you in real trouble.

I would bet the carrier is correct and they found some axle that happens to have the same shaft size for the bearings, and shoved it in there backwards, and never could get things to work after that. No matter what you do, you need an actual Banshee axle of some kind. Shove it in there from the right side and see if things start to fit together.

The swinger looks like a Lonestar. Probably -1". Stock is about 18 1/2" center to center. It's a good swinger if that length will work for you. Don't know what the axle and hubs are from, but they belong in the scrap pile.

1 slight correction here. A 795 is not a Blaster piston. The 795 pistons start at 64.0 and are the correct piston. A Blaster piston is a 573, starts at 66.0, has the correct pin height for a 115 rod, and will work, but has a different dome angle and needs domes cut properly for it.

Wicked atv used to sell them. They're website doesn't have any info on their current business situation. http://wickedatv.com/ Here's a thread that shows the wheels. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=83529

Bathroom scale, and a hydraulic press or a bathroom scale, an old 4 stroke valve and a drill press. Voice of experience here though. Use a plain old dial scale. The digital ones don't work for shit. They aren't made for varying weights. They're made to get your ass on, check your weight and get off. If you use the hydraulic press, you can check shock springs too.

As long as you get '91 or newer, year doesn't matter. In most cases older bikes have been thrashed more, but that's not always the case. There are better pipes out there than the FMFs, but ALL pipes are better than the Dynoport 2 into 1. Your choice from there, but if you buy the '01, ditch the dynoport pipe.

Welcome to BHQ. For $800, you did good. If you put a fresh topend on a motor with a questionable bottomend, it's likely to blow and destroy your fresh topend, cases, etc. Time to split the cases, check everything, put in new seals, and get the crank checked by a site sponsor. Buy a Clymer manual and also do lots of reading on BHQ. Here is the bottom end thread. Read through it and look at the pics so you have some idea of what's inside. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912

Yep, time to break out the welder. Be sure to clamp the ground on the flywheel puller. If you clamp it on the cases, you send the welding current through the bearings.

Actually, Clymer says .0098" to .0295", but anyway, close enough. .020" and.018" are both in between the allowable range, so that part of the crank is good. Still should have it checked, trued, and welded.

Everything he said and a compression test and a leakdown test. Those are the 2 VERY MOST important tests on any Banshee. Especially any new to you Banshee.

I haven't done it yet, but here is the schematic I drew up, if you want to keep high and low beams. You need a double pole, double throw toggle switch with a center off position. Make sure that neither of the positions are momentary. If you only want 1 beam,(aftermarket lights) you just need a simple single pole, single throw switch. You could make a bracket off the TORS box tab or any other place.

Take the jamb nut off the lower ball joint, screw the ball joint all the way in and put the jamb nut on the inside end of the ball joint. Then get your caster, camber, and toe set.

Push the clutch actuator arm with your finger. The arrows should line up when it gets hard to push. Adjust the pressure plate adjuster till you get it right. Then screw the adjuster on the clutch perch so you have about 1" of freeplay at the end of the lever. That's it. You're done.

If you use the header wrap, don't use the stainless zip ties that they sell. They don't hold it tight enough. Use an automotive CV joint banding tool like this. This one is pretty nice. There are cheaper ones out there.

Here's a few examples of powdercoated frames with bent subframes and useless tabs still in place.

A few other things to check. Check the triangle shaped steering stem hoop gussets. The upper welds are famous for cracking Check the steering stem stop near the lower bearing. It is common for it to be bent forward and the edges smooshed. A gusset welded in here is nice. Make sure the rear subframe is not bent. The rear foot or so should be perfectly straight. I have seen so many freshly powdercoated frames that have 1 side of the subframe bent upward.

Here's a basic list of what to cut. If you're going to run pods, cut the airbox mounts off(front and rear ones) If you're not going to run factory foot baskets, cut those mounts off If you're going to run cut front fenders, cut the tabs for the support braces(below the front motor mounts) If you're moving the CDI and regulator, cut those tabs off If you're going to run uncut rears, KEEP the mounts that go out the sides for the rear fenders Cut the tabs for the rubber bumpers for the stock pipes off. It looks real dumb with those tabs and a nice powder coated frame Cut the TORS box tab off You can cut the molded, curved stinger mount off that's in front of the silencers, if your stingers don't have a mount there

There's not supposed to be a gasket between the cover you took off and the clutch cover. There shouldn't be any oil in that area. There should be a hose on that brass spout that you see in the pic. It should go through the hole in the clutch cover, up by the waterpump and then tee with the vent hose from the back, top of the cases. The tee should be somewhere above the carbs. Then the hose should go up to the steering stem hoop and loop back down a little ways. However... That brass vent that you are looking at is not needed. You can cap it off with a piece of hose, a ball bearing and a couple zip ties. The prefered way to block it off is with the $10 ebay billet block off plate. That does mean removing the clutch cover and pounding out that brass vent piece. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-Clutch-Cover-Vent-Block-off-Plate-/110747369144?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c90ebeb8&vxp=mtr

You need to look into what it takes to get it from the US to Canada. Get ahold of JesseP-MFERS! That's his member name including the "!" He's in Canada and has looked into this a bit. I seem to remember importing a bare frame was a problem.