Starwriter

Lookin' good. You did a leakdown test, right? Your front shocks are on upside down.

Sorry, but I have to dissagree about the "hardware store bolts". They typically have goofy head sizes. 11mm, 13mm, etc. It pisses me off when I'm working on somebody's bike and I grab my 12 mm socket and it turns out to be a bolt with a 13mm head.

I just bought 10 sets for $150. http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/397729938/Motocycle_ASV_brake_lever.html Anybody want a set for $30? LOL Just kidding.

Fuckin, shit right, it don't mother fuckin matter. Piss on it. LOL

The Banshee crank is a multipiece crank, press fit together. Welding keeps it from from spreading apart and twisting at the pins. As far as a builder, all of the site sponsors are good. Some slightly better than others. Read, read, read, and pick one. Especially check out the Dyno Room. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showforum=55

I sent you a PM. I see you haven't read it. I put my phone number in the PM. Call me anytime.

This guy was smokin crack when he came up with his price, but you might check it out. Might be worth buying and parting out. http://salem.craigslist.org/sno/4130314875.html Also, check with quadpro26 on here. He's not far from you and parts out a lot of bikes.

You're definitely going at this with the right approach. Read, read, read, there's tons of info that will give you plenty of ideas on what other people have built, mistakes they have made, and the consequences. Here are some of the basics. Buy a Clymer manual. Definitely split the cases and build a good bottom end. There are tons of choices depending on how much money you want to spend. tru and weld stock crank, rebuild stock crank, new stock stroke crank, new 4 mil crank, etc. Definitely buy a used OEM flywheel. Aftermarkets are junk Definitely buy a billet clutch basket. So, the short version is send your crank and cylinders to a site sponsor or send your cylinders only and tell them to port for 4mil and ship them back with a 4mil crank, pistons, and domes. Everything else, you can assemble yourself. Here's the bottom end assembly walkthrough, so you have an idea what you are getting into. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912 Some of the basic tools you need to own are, flywheel puller, impact driver(The kind you smack with a hammer), carb sync tool, leakdown tester, and compression tester.

The stator will plug directly into the CDI if you mount it close enough. That eliminates a bunch of wires. I haven't done it yet, but I'm going to.

$3,000 for a stock bike? WOW! Hardly a budget build. Here's what I bought for $2500. Complete running bike with trued and welded crank, ported cylinders, fresh bore with Wiseco pistons, V Force reeds, billet intakes, 33mm PWK carbs, pods, chrome T5 pipes, Lonestar +4 chrome roundhouse swinger, Lonestar axle, blue label wheels, Hauler paddles, mohawks, chrome stock A arms, lots of billet goodies, including clutch basket, stator cover, footpegs, shifter, sprocket hub, and all the usual billet covers, with a title.

OK, you'll see. LOL. BTW, did you know that, on the iphone, if you tap the space bar twice real fast, it puts in a period, a space, and capitalizes the next letter?

While we're on the subject, also, do white Lakers match OEM?

We ride about 4% of the time at night so I'm not willing to spend $200 to $300 on the "best" LED headlights. I definitely want LEDs and something that is polished. Anyone have experiance with cheap LEDs? I don't like the looks of the round ones that are curved down at the back. There are lots of different square ones that look good, but they're black. Has anybody stripped and polished them?

You obviously haven't thought this through very well. You can't buy all the pieces, and pay shipping on the pieces, for 1/2 the cost of buying a complete used bike. As mentioned, you're gonna blow through $6k on a bike that you could buy used for $3k or less. Budget build? Seriously?

A Hinson springloaded basket might have a little more give than the stock clutch cushions. Also, from the vids, it seems to me that you need to gear it lower. Smaller front sprocket or larger rear sprocket.

Do you mean the neutral switch cover bolts? Or longer bolts for a case saver?That's the only part on the whole motor that has 3 bolts.

An auto clutch isn't going to work. A Banshee doesn't have enough low end torque. Lock it up at a low RPM and it's going to ride like a Polaris Sportsman. Lock it up a a higher RPM and it's going to burn up in the 1st hour. That's why I'm suggesting a foot clutch. Whether you do a combo pedal like I suggested, or have separate brake and clutch pedals. Want some more ideas? +2 A arms on the left and stock width arms on the right. Adjust the left rear hub outward and the right rear hub inward. All this to better balance out the center of gravity. Set up the left front wheel with negative camber and the right with positive camber to make a natural pull to the right to compensate for the rider pulling back in the left side of the bars. Plumb the front master cylinder to the right front brake so you can drag the right front brake with 1 finger while launching to create even more of a pull to the right. If you do this, plumb the rear master to the rear brake and the left front brake. Under severe braking, this will cause a pull to the left to counteract the rider weight transfer of the rider pushing on the left grip.

The guy that made that video is a dumb ass.

From looking at the threads, I think the hub is all the way on there. This thread shows the spacer and washer that go on there. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=171392

...and risk destroying the stator.

I gotta admit, that's a pretty nice piece. However, I think you're not going to sell too many of them at that price, especially here as a new BHQ member and not having any selling feedback on ebay. There are plenty of equally elaborate handlebar clamps in the $30 to $40 shipped, price. Granted, you have a unique product, but it's not that hard to drill 2 holes into a cheaper clamp. With all that being said, I feel that at about $35 plus $5 shipping, you could sell a bunch of them. I'm not trying to Jew you on price. I just feel that's where the market is at. If you want to sell them at that price, I would be willing to meet you anywhere in Eugene, buy 1 for $35 and report to BHQ to give you some credibility. PM me if you want to set something up.

The later style hubs use countersunk rotor bolts to clear the spindle. So, ya, if you try to run early hubs on late spindles, the rotor bolts will hit. Also, you must use calipers that match the style. Here are the early and late parts. Early is on the right in all pics. Notice how the late (red) hub tapers thinner at the ends of the ears. This is just a cosmetic difference, but an easy way to tell early from late. Also, it's actually, 87-89 and 90-06. 90 was a J arm bike with late style front brakes.

I thought it looked pretty short. Let us know how it goes with the axle. Just for information, the ID of the right seal is 1mm bigger than the ID of the left seal.

Here is the facebook page for the left throttle guy. A little more info and updates. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Shawftware/619509238078545?ref=br_tf Now, I have some more ideas. Although a left throttle and clutch could be rideable, I can easily foresee getting pitched off the bike when you're trying to launch a sloped to the left, tree shot. So, put on the left thumb throttle. That's easy. Put on a sportbike clutch master and plumb it to the front brakes. That's easy. On the rear brake pedal, make a sleeve that slides over the tube for the brake pedal. Put on a bigger washer to keep it from sliding off. Weld a tab on the tube for the clutch cable. Fab spring mounts and an up limit stop for the lever in relation to the pedal, and install a spring. build a cable housing mount off the frame. Possibly off the swingarm pivot bolt and the hole in the gusset above it that was for a brake light switch. Then build an adjustable limit stop that stops the new clutch arm when the clutch gets fully disengaged. The spring will compress at this point, allowing the brake pedal to keep moving. Make a slotted arm where the brake pedal attaches to the master cylinder clevis to allow the clutch to be disengaged before applying the rear brake. Motion Pro will make you a clutch cable any way you want it. The end result will be a pedal that you push part way to disengage the clutch, and if you continue pushing farther, it will apply the rear brake. You will feel the point where it's going to start applying the rear brake as the spring on the pedal will start to compress at that point. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/category/cables/ A clutch pancake bearing is going to be a necessity with this design as you will be coasting with the clutch disengaged a lot and even possibly unintentionally resting your foot on the pedal. I'm also thinking a tether kill switch is very important for you. Good luck with everything and hope you get back to riding soon. I have this design in my head. If you need more info, PM me.

That's a good idea, but Here's the problem I see with that. Automotive brake line pressure is going to be in the 800 to 1200PSI range. I bet we aren't getting more than 150 PSI before lockup. I doubt an automotive proportioning valve will be adjustable in that range.