Starwriter

What are you going to use machine it? If you think you're going to do it with a sawzall and a dremel, you're in for a surprise.

Never had that problem but, just fab some L brackets off the grab bar mounting bolts.

If you think you can buy it, rebuild it, and turn a profit, you are probably mistaken. You can easily dump $1,000 into a motor that "just needs a top end" If it has a title, $500 is not a bad price for a blown up stocker. If it has $1,000+ worth of aftermarket goodies and a title, it's a great deal. I still would say, "Not for investment purposes".

Definitely Mattoon. Better plate, better cushions, bigger bolts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BANSHEE-CLUTCH-BASKET-BACKING-PLATE-CUSHION-KIT-DRAG-By-Mattoon-Machine-/321270617309?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4acd3894dd&vxp=mtr

The Clymer manual is wrong. Check the primary by going spade terminal to spade terminal. Check the secondary by going plug wire to plug wire. The secondary should be about 5K ohms without the plug boots. The plug boots should be about 5K ohms each. However, coils that test bad with an ohm meter can still run great and coils that test good can still run bad.

Looking great!! I just noticed that your steering stop is bent forward. Bend it rearward, build up the edges where it's smooshed and weld in a gusset on the front.

But we all know he won't. He'll just get all excited and yank the top end right off.

Redline has some chrome OEM rear hubs on a Durablue axle. Give Cameron a call.

While we're on the subject. I know there's water repellant and non water repellant outerwears. Is there any disadvantage to the water repellant outerwears? Do they impede airflow more? If not, why do they even make the non water repellant ones?

Wow, you got really lucky. As I recommended before, buy a Clymer manual, and just put it together as shown in the manual. (Line up the pressure plate arrow, torque the pressure plate bolts, etc)

X a million on a roundhouse swinger. MUCH easier to adjust chain.

Leakdown test the motor.

If it chips, it wasn't baked properly. You should be able to bend the metal and not have it chip.

Use the scotch brite rolocs for stripping paint to weld. Makes it easier to prep later.

Nice work.

Take the switch out of the thumb throttle. Chop the wires. Slide the rubber grommet off the wires. Put some black silicone in the hole in the grommet and put the grommet back in the thumb throttle. Or, if you're into bling, Cascade makes a very nice billet piece to replace the grommet for $20.

1st things to do to any new to you bike. Compression test, leakdown test, new plugs, clean carbs and filters. If that doesn't make it run right, move on to check plug cap resistance, pickup coil gap, reeds, etc. There are also the user created problems. Carb bowls swapped, slides swapped, missing choke tube.

Congratulations. Now you have no way of knowing if the crank seals are any good. Might as well pull the motor and do a complete teardown.

I'm going to restate part of my previous post. DO A LEAKDOWN TEST FIRST. If you don't own a Clymer manual, BUY ONE. If you are too cheap to pay the Clymer people for their efforts in putting together copyrighted material, then sell the Banshee and buy a hackey sack and go hang out at the mall.

And every crank I've bought had wrist pin bearings zip tied to the rods.

"LIFETIME WARRANTY - no questions asked." "I bent my hillshooter axle. I want to replace it with a play axle". wink, wink...

I am going to disagree with some of the above posts. Do NOT just tear the topend off. I am curious where the smoke was actually escaping from. However, start here. Pull the pipes and look into the exhaust ports to see if you can see scuffed pistons. Also, on your other thread, you mentioned the clutch adjuster locknut was "missing". Where did it go? Any chance it got into the transmission or primary gears and locked it up? Now, if you determine that the topend needs to come off, DO A LEAKDOWN TEST FIRST. If you don't own a Clymer manual, BUY ONE. If you are too cheap to pay the Clymer people for their efforts in putting together copyrighted material, then sell the Banshee and buy a hackey sack and go hang out at the mall.

Take a long punch and pound it out from the other side. If that doesn't work, get all the needles out and grind a notch in the shell with a dremel till it's very thin. Then use a small chisel to break it.

I guess we'll never know what the problem was.