Starwriter

Agreed!!!! Send it to a site sponsor. You have a mess of stuff that is never going to work unless you have a builder check it all out and get you set up. You could have long rods with short rod pistons. You could have porting thats all out of whack for whatever stroke crank you have. You could have head domes that will cause the motor to blow up, if it ever even runs.

It's smaller than 1/8" NPT. I don't know what it is. British, metric, Japanese, whatever. $15 is kinda steep, but I don't know where else you're going to get it.

Yes, RM Stator is junk, but did you check the pickup coil gap at both lobes on the flywheel?

What happened when you called Myler's?

If it were mine, I would sell the D&D head and buy a head that uses common domes and have a site sponsor custom cut some domes. That way you aren't always tied to D&D whenever you blow something up or want to make some changes. BTW, I'm pretty sure D&D doesn't make their own domes. They contract out to another company to make them, so you're just that much farther away from the person actually cutting them.

Not gonna happen. I've tried this with other companies on various items. Most companies sell them the way they sell them and that's it. They probably get the components in boxes of 100 from some company somewhere else. It's not worth their time to "special order" 1 or 2 custom pieces.

FYI, it's 87 to 89 only on the hubs. You need the one on the right.

Here's that Toomey flange. Sounds like it would work. http://www.toomey.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=vmj_funky.tpl&product_id=101&category_id=15&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=3

You never have actually stated, but I am assuming you are putting an RZ350 motor in a Banshee and are wanting to use pipes made for a Banshee. Some aftermarket pipes hit the powervalve cable holder on the cylinder. I don't know which pipes clear. You're going to have to research that. The Banshee cylinders have a 45 mm stub that the pipes slip over. The RZ cylinders use a bolt on flange with threaded studs in the cylinder. I don't know what the spacing is between the studs. Here is what I do know. The Yamaha Blaster stud spacing is 68mm. CPI used to make a pipe for the Blasters. Not anymore. They sold an aluminum flange that mounted to the Blaster studs and had a 45mm stub for their pipe to mount to just like a Banshee pipe would mount. Banshee stub size is 45mm. Toomey still makes a pipe for Blaster and they sell a similar flange on their website. Call them and find out if the stub size is 45mm like a Banshee. If the stud spacing on your RZ 68mm like a blaster, then it should work. One more thing worth mentioning. The CPI flange uses cheesy bolt on tabs for the springs to hook to. The Toomey flange has holes drilled in the aluminum for the springs to hook to. Much nicer in my opinion.

OK, let's start out this way. All Banshee flywheels are the same and will fit all RZ350 cranks. All Banshee stators will fit your RZ cases. All Banshee stators and CDI boxes will work with each other as long as the connectors can be connected together. It's basically 87-94, 95-96, and 97 and newer. You can change the connectors as long as you match colors. Getting back to the RZ, to make it right, you need flywheel, stator, wireharness, CDI, voltage regulator, power valve controller box, and powervalve servo motor with cables. If you just want to make it run for now, I would lock the powervalves in the open position. Your low RPM power is going to suffer slightly, but shouldn't be too bad.

All RZ350 flywheels are different than Banshee flywheels. The only way you can make it run with ANY Banshee components is to run ALL Banshee components. Flywheel, stator, CDI, wire harness, voltage regulator. The crank taper is the same, so that's possible. You will need to lock the power valves in the open position.

No, Banshee flywheel and stator is vastly different than RZ350. Also, different years of RZ350 flywheels and stators are different from other years. You'll have to do some research to figure out which years work on your 86. Here you are. I found the interchange information. http://www.rzrd500.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=6345&highlight=electrical+swap

It could already be out of tru. Definitely send it to a site sponsor to be inspected, trued and welded. Build a solid foundation and then you can go crazy with whatever mods you decide without the worry of it blowing a hole in the cases.

Leave the steels and fibers in the basket. Push on the fibers with 1 hand. Hit the nut with an impact gun.

Based on my calculations, it's Ti. If it was steel or stainless it would be a little over 10 lbs. If it was aluminum, it would be a little under 4 lbs. Congrats!!!

Bought a CDI from Wes. Great price, right on top of communications and super fast shipping. A real pleasure to buy from.

The key switch.

Do you have a lathe to bore out the tube for the roller bearings?

Also worth mentioning, they fit lots of other bikes besides Banshees, so you might find it at your local motorcycle shop.

Make sure it doesn't say "Stage IV" anywhere on the motor.

Uman was obviously smoking crack when he posted. Stock tie rods are 10 7/8" long not counting the tie rod ends. So, that would make it sound like you have +2 arms. Just for confirmation, the stock upper A arms measure 10 3/4" from the center of the pivot tube to the center of the ball joint.

After taking a closer look at the 1st pic, it looks like the upper ball joint is in a vastly different position relative to the wheel on each side. If so, that would most likely indicate that 1 of the spindles is bent. As I mentioned above, could even be the left spindle.

It's definitely sitting too high because of wrong shocks. Take the shocks out, lower it down to a respectable height and then go after it with a level and start checking things. adjust the pressure in the rear tires to get the frame level and then go from there. You may find that the left side actually has too much positive camber when it's sitting at the correct height. Could be bent spindle or bent upper control arm. The upper control arms are pretty weak. Worst case, it could be a bent frame.

They definitely have them. They just built me a custom radiator.

Myler's radiators Great guys to deal with. http://www.motorcycleradiators.com/