Starwriter

The drum is clearly machined for a bearing, so the buyer is going to need to purchase a bearing for it. It should be machined so that the bearing is a press fit on the drum.

TM Designworks is the only one to use. None of the others distribute the load to the forward part of the case. Unless you want to spend $100+ for one from that Facebook dude.

I predict catastrophic results from whatever you are trying to do.

You just need the angled frame tube that has the upper rear A arm mount on it. Get someone with a junk frame to sawzall out that tube, leaving extra parts of the other frame tubes, and then you can just grind away the junk and weld it in. If your J arm frame is titled, and you have the ability to MIG or TIG weld, I would do the conversion without any hesitation. Just make sure you have your upper A arms before you start welding, so you can get the spacing right. The front J arm mount is already in the correct position for A arms. The rear J arm mount needs to be ground off.

Find someone with a bent/junk frame and get them to cut off the rear A arm tube and bracket. The front J arm mount is the same location for the A arm. I got mine from NYUK. He's got tons of frames and parts.

Rings have an end gap. Any coolant on top of the piston will leak past the rings. You drained the cylinders before you pulled the head off, right?

Yeah, don't you know you should be wearing a backwards baseball cap to protect your head?

Compression test, leakdown test, clean carbs make sure choke tube is between carbs, slides in the correct sides, bowls on the correct sides, and check to see what jets are in the carbs. Buy a Clymer manual and do lots of reading on BHQ.

Probably a leaking head gasket. Better do a leakdown test. Be sure to remove the radiator cap when you do it.

Yeah, B.b.p, how's the homemade delrin casesaver coming along?

Weird. Do you have an arched ladder swingarm or something?

If it's a right front, you can put it on the rear. Just have to buy the rear mounting plate and slide pin from East Coast ATV. The bleeder screw doesn't end up exactly at the top so to bleed it, you have to put a block of wood between the pads and hold it so that the bleeder screw is at the top or with it on the bike, lift the back of the bike waaaay up in the air and bleed it. It's kind of a cleaner look, because you don't have the parking brake block off plate. If you have a stock style rear carrier, you need to check the fit.

K&N has a chart on their website that lists part numbers for all the different filters with specs. Generally the 10 degree filters work best. You can rotate them both to the right side.

Will you take a 3rd party check for $10,000 drawn on a Nigerian bank and give the difference to my shipper when he picks up the bike?

Tip the bike upside down. LOL shop vac?

Yep, if you're too cheap to buy a Clymer manual, sell the Banshee and go play hacky sack at the mall.

I would be more worried about the bottom end. Split the cases and have the crank checked, trued and welded by a site sponsor. Then you know that the crank is not gonna take out your fresh top end and destroy your cases.

Only 2 ways for coolant to get into the trans oil. Water pump seal or some mental midget pinched the coolant tube O ring in between the clutch cover and the case when he(she) was putting the clutch cover on. If the coolant tube O ring just goes bad, it will just leak onto the top of the motor and drain down onto the ground.

Sand your cylinders and head on the granite slab. Assemble with new O rings. You put the small O rings on top of the domes, right? Just snug the cylinder base nuts. Torque the head nuts. Then tighten the base nuts. Then leakdown test it. There is also a slight possibility that it's the rubber plugs in the bottom of the cylinders. Just to cover that, you could coat the plugs with 1211, and reinstall them.

Without owning a Clymer manual, the OP is likely to start prying on the impeller with a screwdriver.

Awesome! The last one was a blast. Looking forward to this.

Some full circle circlips are too tall for the groove and the cases won't seat all the way together.

Upgraded ball joints on stock A arms?

1990 was the 1st year for footbaskets.

Red/black and black key switch wires need to be connected together for it to run. Make sure the flywheel didn't fall off. Check the pickup coil gap. Check to see if the wire harness melted to the right stinger and shorted out. If all that checks out, you're going to have to break out the multimeter and start doing resistance checks.