Starwriter

Do a leakdown test. If it passes, run it. Or as mentioned, bust it all apart and redo everything.

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OK, so then turn the big black plastic knobs till everything syncs. You still need a sync gauge to get it perfect, but you should be able to get close by eyeball.

If the big ugly TORS boxes have been removed from the top of the carbs, then you have 2 separate adjustments to sync the carbs. The brass screws with the jam nuts on the sides of the carbs are to adjust the idle sync. The cable adjusters on top of the carbs need to be adjusted with the throttle partly open, to get the slides to move in sync. You need a carb sync gauge to sync them properly.

Type in all your search terms and preferences, click search, after page loads, click add bookmark.

I have an advanced search bookmarked the way I like to search banshee -siouxie -halo -golf and excluding minky and a few other sellers.

Besides the obvious J arm differences, the only mechanical differences in parts are the swingarm, carrier, sprocket hub(which must all stay together) and the front brake calipers, hoses, rotors, front hubs, and spindles(which also must stay together). By stay together, I mean that you can't interchange them with later style parts. So, in other words, you can swap all your 87 parts(except J arms) to an A arm frame and everything will fit. Just don't try mixing the above mentioned parts with later parts. Also worth mentioning, the '90 was a J arm bike with late style front brakes, spindles, etc. There are several electrical differences over the years, but that's a different issue.

I always thought that it was remotely possible for the circlips to come out of the groove from the inertia of the piston going up and down, if the gap was at 3:00 or 9:00.

For some reason, threads that I made my 1st post in, after the maintanence, do not show up in "my content". Thrads that I posted in before the maintenence, show the latest posts.

I'll take a stab at this. The TORS is what was causing it to die. The idle was cranked way up and it sorta idled on the park brake rev limiter. When you push the park brake switch, it turns off the rev limiter and it revs to the moon. As mentioned, get that green/yellow wire outta there and turn the idle screws down.

If I needed something ASAP, I would post my location. East coast, West coast, Canada, South Africa?

A very respected builder once told me that wrist pin grooves do not effect performance, since they are below the exhaust port opening height and therefore do not effect compression. I have no experience with that. Just what I was told.

I have a bunch of cylinders. There is a 62% chance that I have an orphaned left 65.00mm unported cylinder. If I have one, I'll make you a good deal on it. I don't have time to look today. I'll look tomorrow.

This kinda depends on which side you need. Most catastrophic failures happen on the right side, so orphaned left cylinders are easy to come by.

The shift shaft seal is common to leak. It's easy to replace. Pull the left foot peg, shifter, and stator cover. Then carefully drive a sharp pick into the face of the seal. Then lube the new seal and push it on.

Pics and price would do wonders for the sale. If you offered to deliver it to the Redline dyno day on March 8, that would probably seal the deal for someone.

Let me explain it in a way that maybe you can understand. When scrolling on an iphone, everyone elses signature can be easily swiped right past. But when it comes to your youtube video, the screen just stops. You have to swipe and swipe and swipe. It's like a deer that walks out in front of your headlights and just stares at you. It's like that last little bit of shit that won't launch itself out of your ass. It's like that chick in the Hyundai in front of you at the traffic light that is too busy texting to notice that the light has changed and by the time she finally takes off, you get stuck at the red. So, don't take it down just for me. I'm not impressed. Take it down to improve your Karma, to make BHQ a better place, and to make yourself look like less of a inconsiderate dumbshit.

After having the cylinders decked, you should probably do a squish test.

I was trying to be suttle. I have sucked it up and put up with your dumbshit video ever since you added it. Most of the time I surf on the computer, but ocasionally it's nice to check in on my iphone. As mentioned, go have a cigarette. We don't care.

I get tired of 1 particular BHQ member that has a youtube video in his signature. It's a pain in the ass to scroll past when you're using an iphone.

Compression test, leakdown test, clean carbs make sure choke tube is between carbs, slides in the correct sides, bowls on the correct sides, and check to see what jets are in the carbs. Buy a Clymer manual and do lots of reading on BHQ.

110 mm long. Stock length rod. Since the crank has been subjected to that much abuse, you DEFINITELY need to split the cases and send the crank to a BHQ builder.

I've seen those masters too and wondered if something bolts up. Surely there must be one that fits and has a similar bore diameter, even if you have to drill out the bolt hole threads.

I was curious, so I looked it up. Yep, 6 right, 1 left. Buy it now, $85 + $25 shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Banshee-Engine-Cylinders-350-/301089702823?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item461a5843a7&vxp=mtr

I have a pair that are at 65.50mm. The skirt is broke off on the right one and the left has some gouges that probably won't quite clean up at 66.00mm. No porting. 1 has head studs, the other does not. Threads for intake bolts are good. How about $40 shipped including paypal fees?