Starwriter

Also, if the ball joint is orentated in the pic, the way it was in the bike, there's definitely something else bent. With it in that position, I'm pretty sure you would have too much positive camber. Not negative.

It looks like there's a smooshed notch in the socket part at about the 2:00 position in the pic. If so, the front suspension got STUFFED and someone just replaced the upper A arm. I would look things over for the possibility of something else bent too. Spindle, frame, steering stem.

Assuming you have stock carbs, you need main jets somewhere between 230 and 320. Pilot jets somewhere between 25 and 30. Air screw somewhere between 1/2 turn out and 2 turns out. That's the closest we can get with the information provided.

They only come with a spacer washer on the right side of the rear mount and the left side of the front mount.

Definitely an aftermarket head. This is what a stock head looks like.

Ford vs. Chevy, Detroit vs. Japan, U.S. vs the towel heads, ATF vs. not ATF. We need a group hug here.

Bel Ray gear saver and I change it whenever I get around to it. If you run ATF and change it every ride, are you really saving money?

Close the petcock. Fire it up and use up most of the fuel in the carbs. Then tip the bike up vertical and rest it on the grab bar. Look at the bottom of the frame. It's not supposed to be symetrical, but you should be able to see if it looks bent. If that looks good, set it back down on a flat, level floor and get out the level and the tape measure. Start at the back. Adjust the rear tire air pressure so that the axle is the same distance from the floor on both sides. From there, work your way forward with your tape measure and level. Your problems may not be with the control arms or spindle. If the frame checks out, then start measuring the A arms.

They have several different catagories and sometimes the item you're looking for is in a different catagory than you would expect. Here they are. http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=13&store_dept_id=394

Exactly! Out of principle, these guys will not allow Ray to scam them for $5 more than quoted price, but just because they're poor, they have no problem spending their money with someone that is definitely going to continue to rip other people off. How high is their scruples bar where they finally say, "Hell no, I'm not giving someone my money"? Drug dealer? Drug dealer that sells to grade school kids? Baby raper? The term "vote with your wallet" applies here.

Personally, I don't do business with scammers. There's certain shops in my town that I wouldn't buy pop out of their pop machine.

Glad to help. Good luck.

Don't know. Give it a shot.

Put up a post here in the wanted section. Shipping is a killer, so try to find one within driving distance.

Very well known scammer.

That's Minky. Stay away. Far, far away. Guaranteed, you will not get the plastics shown in the pic.

Not likely. The first time the plastic flexes, the fiberglass is going to fly off of there like a cheerleaders panties on prom night. I'm sure some of your Michigan budies have some used OEM plastics.

OK, sounds like you've got it all figured out.

Just because it's not reported stolen, doesn't mean you're going to get to keep the bike once you dig into this. Daughter's boyfriend took it and sold it for drug money. Daughter took mom's bike and sold it for drug money. A finance company is still owed $3,000 on it and is going to repo it. These are just some of the ways you can lose it once you alert the registered owner of it's whereabouts. Bottom line, if they have a title with their name on it, you have to give it to them. The bill of sale that you got from whoever you gave money to doesn't mean squat.

The registered owner can get a replacement title. If you're not the registered owner and you try to get a title, there's a 42% chance you will lose your bike.

Although you don't have to have a title for ATVs in most states, without one, you have no way of proving it's yours when shit hits the fan. I use photobucket for pics. Never tried it from my iphone.

I would only do it if he has a title.

His builder is that guy that builds 10mil motors with stock pipes for that sleeper look, and cuts his own overrides and trenches the cases with an angle grinder.

Basically, no. The space between the swingarm ears is different. You could possibly monkey moo it together using washers to space things out, but I wouldn't do it. Best to get a roundhouse swingarm or a complete late OEM style swingarm and carrier.

People think that the rings traveling over the wrist pin grooves is harder on them than traveling across the ports? Really? Not even.