Starwriter

There's about $900 worth of wheels, tires, pipes, helmets, boots and fuel can, so you got the base bike for FREE. Good job. By, "half of it was still inside the case", I am hoping you mean the threaded part that is still screwed inside the case. You need to account for all the pieces. The 2 pieces of the eccentric bolt, the jam nut, and the bendover locking washer. To get the broken piece out, use a sharp pic and a hammer to go kinda sideways and spin it out. If that doesn't work, center punch it in the exact center and drill it with a lefthand drill bit and it should spin right out. Be careful not to drill into the case.

If they've never had new needle and seats put in since you've owned it, chances are that the rubber needle tips are bad. I consider the needle and seat to be a maintenance item. Replace them and be done with it.

The stock sleeves are cast into the cylinder. There is no way for them to move. To replace the sleeves, they are bored out and new sleeves pressed in.

Something like this. The ones with the removable tips are junk. The ones that are convertible from internal to external are only slightly better.

That sucks man! Sounds like they went to a lot of work to get your bike. They obviously knew what was in there. I hope you get it back. These are the type of locks I use on the cam locks..

2 is a white plastic collar. 3 is the spring with tails that go on each side of the eccentric bolt. They both go on the shaft before you slide it in. 7 is the shift shaft seal that goes in the stator side of the case. The shift shaft is held in place by a nub on the clutch cover.

OK, so it's a +7".

I'm gonna go ahead and buy a new set from JL.

The proper way to measure is center to center. Stock is 18 1/2" center to center.

Here's where the problems originated. Beyond that, we can't speculate what you assembled wrong/ broke/fucked up.

It's a Yamaha only part. You bend it over a flat on the nut. I would be really concerned about where yours went. Are pieces of it inside the trans?

I have a very nice set of purple/yellow plastics. The rear fender is uncut with all the OEM stickers on it. The front has had the fenders drag cut off of it. It has the original "YAMAHA" letters on the front. The tank plastics are yellow and very nice. The "YAMAHA" letters have been removed from the tank plastic. They are all very shiny and nice. I've never shipped plastics, but have heard it's kinda spendy due to size. I'll be right up front and let you know that I am not going to sell these cheap. If we're on the same page, I can post pics and we can deal from there. There are 2 colors of purple plastics. This is the color that I have. This is not mine. It's just a pic I found for representation.

Not how I would build the motor, but it's your money. I would build a good solid 4mil bottom end with a pro mod trans, and then use what ever money you have left for a ported stock cylinder motor. Or if you have about $2,000 buy this and be done. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=178490

PM sent to SandSlinger

Now that's what I'm talking about. Just checked out their site. $99.99 for chrome. Thanks. If I'm not willing to spend $200, I'm sure not going to spend $350+. LOL If I was riding over bowling ball size rocks at 60mph, I would definitely have a set, but this is for a duner.

Anybody know where to get nice chrome V bars for a reasonable price? I don't want the $35 cheapies with the american flag bar pad and there is no way I'm spending $200 for the Cascade ones. Is there anything in between? I have a good hook up with my local chrome shop so if Stellar or anybody sells them bare, I could get them chromed for really reasonable if that's my only choice. Another thing that bugs me about most(all) of them is the way they are knurled wider than the bar clamp. While we're on the subject of bars, sometime in the far distant future, I may do something like this with an antivibe steering stem.

JJ&A $110.00 shipped http://www.jjandaracing.com/contents/en-us/p518.html

I'm gonna bet that at least 1 of the spindles are bent and a good possibility that the frame is bent.

Yeah, seems a bit fishy, but it's only $32 for both sides and you are protected by Paypal.

I saw this the other day on ebay. Seems a little too good to be true. Gamble at your own risk. Keep in mind, new OEM won't come with stickers or hardware. http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-SIDE-COVERS-BLACK-NEW-OEM-P-2GU21711-B0-00-2GU21721B000-/131307071995?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e9282e9fb&vxp=mtr

3 jaw chucks are not very accurate. They're for quickly setting up something short that you are going to machine all surfaces. I would find a new machine shop guy. I hope he didn't charge you for that little bit of useless information.

That's not even close to the correct way to check it. It's probably still bent, but you should put it between centers. >=================================================<

If the steering stop is not limiting the amount of turning, the outer end of the tie rod will go overcenter and the steering will lock at full turn causing you to crash. If the spindle is bent, chances are very good that the shaft that the wheel bearings are on is bent, causing the wheel bearings to be out of line with each other. Replace the bent shit before you crash and die.

Why does it matter who made them?