Starwriter

^X2. Locked steering will definitely end up in an ugly crash. That steering stop is definitely smooshed on the edges. Bend it back, weld up the edges, weld in a gusset. It doesn't take much of a gusset. I weld in a piece of 3/8" rod at an angle between the frame tube and the center of the steering stop, near the top.

Yes, blue ones came with blue fenders. White ones came with white fenders.

Sort of but not exactly. 87-89 is the early brakes. 90 and newer is the late style brakes. So, 90 is a J arm bike with the late style brakes. This is the early caliper. This is the late caliper

This will not make it easier to find neutral. Sounds like you may have a clutch problem. Do you have a stock clutch basket with worn fingers?

1. Bleed the brakes to flush out all the old nasty fluid and make sure the master isn't too full. 2. If opening the bleeder screw releases the brakes, you have a master cylinder problem 3. If brakes still drag, remove the calipers and see if the slide pins are stuck. The caliper should move easily side to side, in relation to the mounting plate.

+1 is not common. Most people buy +2 or +3 and nobody is going to sell you just lowers off the shelf.

Wow, you got screwed. If you're set on using them, you're going to need to have custom made lowers.

I'm pretty sure that's not a Lonestar swingarm. I'm kinda wondering if it's even a Banshee swingarm. Before you get too carried away, take a bunch of measurements on it.

Bump. Still looking.

There is no rectifier on a Banshee. Only a voltage regulator. That only regulates the voltage for the lights. Has nothing to do with the ignition system.

Check your steering stop. I bet it's bent forward and smooshed like this.

This is what the TORS box looks like. You don't want them. If they're already gone, you're headed in the right direction. All you need is a thumb throttle and a throttle cable for thumb throttle without TORS. The cable is different between thumb and twist throttle.

Rod length needs to be measured center of crank pin to center of wrist pin. Tough to do when bottom end is still together. Easier to just go by the number on the rod. There is no way the builder can tell you the stroke from the pin location in the piston. You really need to measure the stroke. As Greene mentioned, put a plate on top of the cylinder studs. Measure from the plate to the piston at TDC. Then measure from the plate to the piston at BDC. The difference is your stroke. If all that is confusing, ship the whole motor to a builder.

Good choice. Now, here's a list of tools you're gonna need. Flywheel puller. (Fits most motorcycles) 32mm or 1 1/4" socket and an impact wrench to turn it, for the clutch hub nut. Phillips impact driver. (The kind you smack with a hammer) When you put the motor back together, you'll need a Torque wrench leakdown tester Here's the bottom end assembly walkthrough. It'll help you to figure out how everything fits together. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912

Did you figure out the stroke and rod length?

Split the cases. If the PTO side bearing is good or marginal, send the crank out. If the PTO side bearing is trashed and the rest of the bearings are loose or rough, the crank is junk. Replacing the 2 center bearings requires complete crank disassembly.

Still looking. Just to clarify, I am not looking for someone to cut up a usable frame that has value. I am looking for someone with a frame that is so bent, cut up, etc., that the only value is the vin number and the title. I am hoping to get the vin tube and title for $100 or less. If I have to spend $200, I'll spend more and buy a complete frame ready to go.

If everything is happy inside, you only need 5 seals, a clutch cover gasket, and a tube of 1211.

1. It's still very possible that the knocking sound IS the crank 2. Fresh top end will put more pressure on the crank 3. 27 year old crank seals? Air leak and meltdown? 4. We've see PLENTY of new guys in your position that destroyed their new top end because they refused to do it right the 1st time

I bet all dad's experience is with single cylinder motors. He probably doesn't know stock Banshee cranks are prone to failure if not welded. If everything truly is OK with the crank, it's only gonna cost you about $200 to split the cases, ship the crank to a builder, have it trued and welded, shipped back, and put together with new seals. Then you know it won't destroy your new top end.

If that's a 27 year old unwelded stock crank, it should have blown up about 22 years ago. It's gonna take a lot more than crossed fingers to keep that motor together. Total catastrophic destruction in 5,4,3, BOOM!!! Be sure to post carnage pics. You get a gold star if the rod punches out the bottom and a poston is jammed sideways in the bore.

Anybody have a junk frame with a title that they would be willing to sell me the vin tube and the title? I have a nice frame that the vin number has been sand blasted to oblivion and is only partially readable. A arm frame only.

I would still split the cases and check out the crank. Would suck if a 27 year old crank let loose and took out your brand new top end. Also, since I doubt you did a leakdown test before you tore it apart, who knows what shape the crank seals are in.

4.5 is the wrong number. 7 is the correct number.

5mm thick, 5mm tall, 16mm long.